The pump you replaced
Look at the bottom of your bilge pump and you will see that the pump is raised slightly from the frame. I think this is because you dont want to pump every drop of water out of your bulge because oil floats on water and that is what is theoretically left on the bottom. By the time your pump kicks on and the fluid level is high enough to be sucked in, the oily part is above the pumping level. If that makes sense.I think you can get it bone dry if you get a pump - self priming - the type of pump that went bad on me and you replaced it with a normal bilge pump. The one that went bad was a pump that could 'lift'. If you had your hose cut perfectly flat and had it perfectly flush with the bilge bottom, you grind a shallow inlet at the base level. This might work, but damn, those pumps are expensive. IF this works, I would use a a manual on/off switch or an electronic bilge switch where you can adjust it to any level. Tony B
Look at the bottom of your bilge pump and you will see that the pump is raised slightly from the frame. I think this is because you dont want to pump every drop of water out of your bulge because oil floats on water and that is what is theoretically left on the bottom. By the time your pump kicks on and the fluid level is high enough to be sucked in, the oily part is above the pumping level. If that makes sense.I think you can get it bone dry if you get a pump - self priming - the type of pump that went bad on me and you replaced it with a normal bilge pump. The one that went bad was a pump that could 'lift'. If you had your hose cut perfectly flat and had it perfectly flush with the bilge bottom, you grind a shallow inlet at the base level. This might work, but damn, those pumps are expensive. IF this works, I would use a a manual on/off switch or an electronic bilge switch where you can adjust it to any level. Tony B