Anyone added Jib/Genoa sheet cars to H30?

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May 21, 2009
360
Hunter 30 Smithfield, VA
I'd like to add a track and cars to my boat instead of using blocks on the toe rails. I mostly sail with my genoa (150) and really haven't used the jib much. I'd be interested in opinions on need for both. Also would like to know how you mounted and positioned your tracks. Not much room between the lifeline stantions and toerails.
If you have added a track and cars for your jib or genoa, would you post some pictures?
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
A couple of considerations to try before you make the mod:

1) Attach a 3rd sheet to the clew of your 150 genoa. When you sheet the sail, do so as you normally via the toe rail lead blocks. But then, with some creativity, you should be able to figure a way to use this 3rd sheet to "in-haul" the clew more towards the center line. On my 1980 Cherubini H36, with a 135 genoa, if I lead this 3rd line (say with the genoa on the starboard) against the aft side (without wrapping) of the starboard cabin top winch, then wrap around the port cabin top winch, I can in-haul the clew enough that the genoa is up against the shrouds. See if something llike this yields the improvement you are looking for. For me, I find that in-hauling helps, compared to the just the toe-rail, but not radically. Certainly not enough to motivate me to add a rail/cars to my deck next to the cabin side.

2) Much more significant for me was to re-cut the luff of my many season genoa to reduce the blown out belly. Before, when pointing best I could into the wind, the leeward tell-tales would break when the masthead wind direction fly was say 5-10 degrees outside of the masthead markers. After the sail recut, they break when fly is right over, or even just inside, the marker. This was a really noticeable improvement for up-wind performance. If you've got a sewing machine, and time, and enough space, and your genoa is old enough that you are game to experiment, can be done DIY for just a few $'s. This was my approach, but I'm sure that a real sail loft would have done much better!


Just some alternatives maybe to try before you proceed.
 
May 21, 2009
360
Hunter 30 Smithfield, VA
I did toy with the idea of putting a second block running free on the sheet and running the line forward to a turning point and then aft to the cockpit. With the genoa sheet block set to the close-hauled position, when the genoa is eased use the 3rd line to pull the line in/down to try to improve trim. I don't have winches in a spot where I could use them for the third sheet though. My goal is to improve sail trim on a reach without having to go forward and move the sheet block. I do some beercan racing, so every little bit helps.
I hadn't considered the condition of my genoa. I think it is in pretty good shape, but I'm not an expert. I can sheet it so that it is pretty flat, so I don't think it's blown out yet. Never considered DIY - hmmm. I can sew and have a machine. I'll have to keep that in mind. Thanks for the tips, Rardi!
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
If you think that you are game to try the DIY re-cut approach, let me know and I can put together a step-by-step how I did it. And warn about the stumbles that I made but now know about.

But since I would need to spend probably a couple of hours thinking then typing the process in a logical/concise format --- I'll do only if you advise that its a real option for you.

rardi
 
May 21, 2009
360
Hunter 30 Smithfield, VA
Rardi, I very much appreciate the info and offer and especially the effort needed to get your procedure down in writing. Realistically I won't be attempting a recut anytime soon. I just don't have the time, and I'm not sure my genoa is that far gone, though you may be sure I'll be giving it the "eye" this spring when racing starts back up. Please don't make the effort now. If it looks like my sail is trashed this spring, I'll repost and maybe this can be a summer project when it's too dang hot to sail. Thanks again for your offer. Your kindness is very much appreciated. Best regards, Tom
 
Aug 23, 2009
361
Hunter 30 Middle River MD
Tom I find using a snap block at the forward position and a standard block. Back by the cockpit it is easy and fairly expense to change the angle on the sheet to allow best trim. Even with a car setup you still have to go forward and I think given the tall coach roof you'd lose more than you would gain in possible sail trim.

The two block setup also makes it easier to change where the forward block is as if it is not in use on a given tack you can reposition go over put the line back in place at it then go back on that tack.

One other thought on a two block setup you can set the block at a position sternward of the winch and get and even broader range of trims than you can with any reasonable car setup. On my old dingy I had a track system and while it could be easy at forward settings you still had to leave the cockpit to move them.

Just my thoughts but I don't think given our narrow decks cars make much sense.
 
May 21, 2009
360
Hunter 30 Smithfield, VA
The PO must have been doing it with the setup you describe because the boat came with 2 regular blocks and 2 snap blocks. I believe I'll save the expense and go with these recommendations. Thanks Rardi and MLamper for your input. Good stuff.
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Re the two block (each side) on the toe rail concept. Here's a pic of the arrangement on my 1980 H36. Upon my purchase of the boat, the PO had only the one toe rail snatch block between the clew and primary winch. I decided that adding a fixed location aft block would afford a consistent lead angle to the winch no matter where the snatch block was positioned along the toe rail. I did this only a few months after buying and sailing my boat 5.5 years ago. Five years on, and with many hundred's of outings, works great. Another benefit is that if the jib sheet kinks while running out slack during tacking, and catches up in the aft block, its a simple matter to just lean over the cockpit coaming to free up. If the same type of sheet kinking happened at the primary (forward) snatch block lead , leaving the cockpit and crawling along the side deck would be necessary (which with the two-block arrangement has never happened!).

Sorry about the picture quality. Taken a year or two ago with my old Blackberry camera.
 

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