I just bought a new 150 genoa for my 1994 26s. I knew the sail would be pretty large (I've seen the pics of boats with large headsails...) Anyhow, I was not aware that I would have to put in new cleats, and , maybe, another set of winches back past the pop top somewhere about mid-way of the cockpit. Has anyone had to do this? Anyone who has done this and has any help or suggestions would be great. Also, having raised the sail briefly, and being aware of the macs relative tenderness, I have a gut feeling that I have dropped a V-12 into a Kia! I don't mean that in a deragatory way, I am very happy with my 26s...the money you pay for the sailing niche you get is awesome and huge... I never really got going to see how the sail does as I could not winch it back far enough. I guess I am also looking for feedback as far as the wind range of a genoa on a mac sloop (1994 26s water ballast). I am guessing around 1-7 mph??? As a side note...any other mac sailors in the south east that would be interested in getting together for a "one design" regatta/race. We could pick various lakes in the south east. I can make it to lake Norman near charlotte N.C pretty easily...
- Status
I'll assume that your response indicates that
a 150 genoa is a valid part of a 26s sail inventory. I did an archive search and read that others do have them...still curious as to the wind window it would use. I am not too enthusiastic about putting in another set of cleats and winches or leads (& possible leaks...); and in retrospect, am unsure of how often it will get used. If you can give me what I paid for it (615$ with shipping), I would be happy to sell it to you John, it has only been raised once. Of course, you could just order one for yourself for the same price, if that is not too big of a problem
a 150 genoa is a valid part of a 26s sail inventory. I did an archive search and read that others do have them...still curious as to the wind window it would use. I am not too enthusiastic about putting in another set of cleats and winches or leads (& possible leaks...); and in retrospect, am unsure of how often it will get used. If you can give me what I paid for it (615$ with shipping), I would be happy to sell it to you John, it has only been raised once. Of course, you could just order one for yourself for the same price, if that is not too big of a problem
I've got one on a a furler
Seldom do I get to let it all the way out. The SF bay is too much wind for the 150, I should have done the 135. You will most likely have to either install coming winches or turning blocks, the friction of the padeyes is awful, the angle is poor and the winching is really hard. Yes, you can head up, take in sail, then fall off, but that is hard to "fine tune" the sail shape that way. I installed coming winches about half way along the cockpit with cleats to match, makes the genoa very easy to handle.
Seldom do I get to let it all the way out. The SF bay is too much wind for the 150, I should have done the 135. You will most likely have to either install coming winches or turning blocks, the friction of the padeyes is awful, the angle is poor and the winching is really hard. Yes, you can head up, take in sail, then fall off, but that is hard to "fine tune" the sail shape that way. I installed coming winches about half way along the cockpit with cleats to match, makes the genoa very easy to handle.
I've got a 150
Genoa on my M25, I dont use it all that often, but it works well in lighter winds. There are winches on the cockpit coaming and lead cars on a track infront of the winches. For more comfortable sailing (read wife riding) I use the 100, when trying to get max speed, (racing or after enough beer for confidence) the genny goes up, the boat heels more, but develops plenty of power.
Genoa on my M25, I dont use it all that often, but it works well in lighter winds. There are winches on the cockpit coaming and lead cars on a track infront of the winches. For more comfortable sailing (read wife riding) I use the 100, when trying to get max speed, (racing or after enough beer for confidence) the genny goes up, the boat heels more, but develops plenty of power.
I would love to get a furler...
but they seem a little too expensive for me. I sail single handed a good bit...mostly in a lake with variable winds...though I go to charleston alot; gonna be tough hanking off and on solo! Thanks for all the info. It's great to be able to tap into all thie experience here. Richard
but they seem a little too expensive for me. I sail single handed a good bit...mostly in a lake with variable winds...though I go to charleston alot; gonna be tough hanking off and on solo! Thanks for all the info. It's great to be able to tap into all thie experience here. Richard
I would love to get a furler...
but they seem a little too expensive for me. I sail single handed a good bit...mostly in a lake with variable winds...though I go to charleston alot; gonna be tough hanking off and on solo! Thanks for all the info. It's great to be able to tap into all thie experience here. Richard
but they seem a little too expensive for me. I sail single handed a good bit...mostly in a lake with variable winds...though I go to charleston alot; gonna be tough hanking off and on solo! Thanks for all the info. It's great to be able to tap into all thie experience here. Richard
Well, that's a mouthfull!
You Yours, I'm very happy with my CDI FF2, works good for me, for the type of sailing I do. It's my understanding wire furlers do not allow partial furling, which is exactly the reason I went with the CDI. Plus the cost was right. They last a long time too. Many old units still in use, very few parts to go bad, company stands behind their product. One more thing, flexible furlers are best used on trailerable boats. Toy or no toy, they work!
You Yours, I'm very happy with my CDI FF2, works good for me, for the type of sailing I do. It's my understanding wire furlers do not allow partial furling, which is exactly the reason I went with the CDI. Plus the cost was right. They last a long time too. Many old units still in use, very few parts to go bad, company stands behind their product. One more thing, flexible furlers are best used on trailerable boats. Toy or no toy, they work!
Well, that's a mouthfull!
You Yours, I'm very happy with my CDI FF2, works good for me, for the type of sailing I do. It's my understanding wire furlers do not allow partial furling, which is exactly the reason I went with the CDI. Plus the cost was right. They last a long time too. Many old units still in use, very few parts to go bad, company stands behind their product. One more thing, flexible furlers are best used on trailerable boats. Toy or no toy, they work!
You Yours, I'm very happy with my CDI FF2, works good for me, for the type of sailing I do. It's my understanding wire furlers do not allow partial furling, which is exactly the reason I went with the CDI. Plus the cost was right. They last a long time too. Many old units still in use, very few parts to go bad, company stands behind their product. One more thing, flexible furlers are best used on trailerable boats. Toy or no toy, they work!
How much for the average [CDI?] furler
Don't know too much about furlers...thought they were in the 1-2 thousand range...one day maybe? I should have done a search on them before stating their expense, maybe i'll check e-bay!
Don't know too much about furlers...thought they were in the 1-2 thousand range...one day maybe? I should have done a search on them before stating their expense, maybe i'll check e-bay!
How much for the average [CDI?] furler
Don't know too much about furlers...thought they were in the 1-2 thousand range...one day maybe? I should have done a search on them before stating their expense, maybe i'll check e-bay!
Don't know too much about furlers...thought they were in the 1-2 thousand range...one day maybe? I should have done a search on them before stating their expense, maybe i'll check e-bay!
Cost...
I can't remember exactly what I paid, I know I have the receipt somewhere, but not handy. The CDI FF2 I think was around $400. I got mine with ball bearings, which costs a little more, probably not necessary though. Your headsail will need to have bolt rope that slides into the extrusion. I bought a new 150% genoa at the same time, which cost around $500. I understand sometimes you can get away with using your existing headstay, but it will need to be able to slip through the hole in the center of the extrusion. I ended up replacing mine for around $100, but I upgraded to the next guage wire, and also upgraded the hardware at both ends. All total, it cost me around $1000. But that's with a new sail and headstay. Your old sail might be able to be modified, and same goes for the headstay. I think it's well worth it. It's nice to be able to manage the sail from the cockpit. I wouldn't want to be without it. Only small drawback is that raising the mast is a little harder, because of the added weight.
I can't remember exactly what I paid, I know I have the receipt somewhere, but not handy. The CDI FF2 I think was around $400. I got mine with ball bearings, which costs a little more, probably not necessary though. Your headsail will need to have bolt rope that slides into the extrusion. I bought a new 150% genoa at the same time, which cost around $500. I understand sometimes you can get away with using your existing headstay, but it will need to be able to slip through the hole in the center of the extrusion. I ended up replacing mine for around $100, but I upgraded to the next guage wire, and also upgraded the hardware at both ends. All total, it cost me around $1000. But that's with a new sail and headstay. Your old sail might be able to be modified, and same goes for the headstay. I think it's well worth it. It's nice to be able to manage the sail from the cockpit. I wouldn't want to be without it. Only small drawback is that raising the mast is a little harder, because of the added weight.
Cost...
I can't remember exactly what I paid, I know I have the receipt somewhere, but not handy. The CDI FF2 I think was around $400. I got mine with ball bearings, which costs a little more, probably not necessary though. Your headsail will need to have bolt rope that slides into the extrusion. I bought a new 150% genoa at the same time, which cost around $500. I understand sometimes you can get away with using your existing headstay, but it will need to be able to slip through the hole in the center of the extrusion. I ended up replacing mine for around $100, but I upgraded to the next guage wire, and also upgraded the hardware at both ends. All total, it cost me around $1000. But that's with a new sail and headstay. Your old sail might be able to be modified, and same goes for the headstay. I think it's well worth it. It's nice to be able to manage the sail from the cockpit. I wouldn't want to be without it. Only small drawback is that raising the mast is a little harder, because of the added weight.
I can't remember exactly what I paid, I know I have the receipt somewhere, but not handy. The CDI FF2 I think was around $400. I got mine with ball bearings, which costs a little more, probably not necessary though. Your headsail will need to have bolt rope that slides into the extrusion. I bought a new 150% genoa at the same time, which cost around $500. I understand sometimes you can get away with using your existing headstay, but it will need to be able to slip through the hole in the center of the extrusion. I ended up replacing mine for around $100, but I upgraded to the next guage wire, and also upgraded the hardware at both ends. All total, it cost me around $1000. But that's with a new sail and headstay. Your old sail might be able to be modified, and same goes for the headstay. I think it's well worth it. It's nice to be able to manage the sail from the cockpit. I wouldn't want to be without it. Only small drawback is that raising the mast is a little harder, because of the added weight.
turning block or cheek block
for starters I'd install a turning or cheek block on the coaming, back to your primary winch for now. that will get you going... cheap... for single handling, an autopilot was the best $300 I've ever spent. I'd like a furler if I left the boat in the water...
for starters I'd install a turning or cheek block on the coaming, back to your primary winch for now. that will get you going... cheap... for single handling, an autopilot was the best $300 I've ever spent. I'd like a furler if I left the boat in the water...
turning block or cheek block
for starters I'd install a turning or cheek block on the coaming, back to your primary winch for now. that will get you going... cheap... for single handling, an autopilot was the best $300 I've ever spent. I'd like a furler if I left the boat in the water...
for starters I'd install a turning or cheek block on the coaming, back to your primary winch for now. that will get you going... cheap... for single handling, an autopilot was the best $300 I've ever spent. I'd like a furler if I left the boat in the water...
Roller Furling plus/minus
Geez You Yours I'd say that about covers every aspect of the subject, thanks. On my own boat, I thought I'd try to make a well made 100% jib perform as well as a genoa that sags. I installed jib cars and tracks, and I obtained a North mylar headsail from a Melges 28 to go with the new deck hardware. Even on light days, the mylar jib keeps a nice shape, but on heavy days the sail deforms only slightly and gives the best performance. Headstay sag is a real concern to anyone who cares about their headsail shaping. On my Mac 26D, keeping the headstay taut starts with preloading the sidestays. I have found that one can set up the fractional rig for best forestay tautness by tensioning the side shrouds as much as possible, but still will allow pinning the forestay when the turnbuckle is all the way open. After cranking down the forestay turnbuckle, the forestay will be as taut as possible and resists induced sag by the foresail's power. No amount of tautness will eliminate sag, except in light conditions, in that case some sag may be beneficial. The sailmaker is supposed to figure into the design of the sail the amount of sag that the sail will experience in the wind force that the sail is targeted for....I understand that sails are really only best in a range of 10 targeted knots, anything above may actually damage the sail. Another consideration of winding up the standing rigging, is it's effect on the hull. I already have plenty of stress cracking in my gel coat, but I see no structural damage to any of the chainplates/mounts on my boat. By the way, I make all of my standing rigging adjustments without any backstay- it is used to bend the mast and depower the mainsail. How does this work against a genoa, roller furled or otherwise? Well, Saturday I will be competing against other sailboats and they have roller furling genoas. If the conditions are light, I may be at a disadvantage, but if the wind blows---look out!
Geez You Yours I'd say that about covers every aspect of the subject, thanks. On my own boat, I thought I'd try to make a well made 100% jib perform as well as a genoa that sags. I installed jib cars and tracks, and I obtained a North mylar headsail from a Melges 28 to go with the new deck hardware. Even on light days, the mylar jib keeps a nice shape, but on heavy days the sail deforms only slightly and gives the best performance. Headstay sag is a real concern to anyone who cares about their headsail shaping. On my Mac 26D, keeping the headstay taut starts with preloading the sidestays. I have found that one can set up the fractional rig for best forestay tautness by tensioning the side shrouds as much as possible, but still will allow pinning the forestay when the turnbuckle is all the way open. After cranking down the forestay turnbuckle, the forestay will be as taut as possible and resists induced sag by the foresail's power. No amount of tautness will eliminate sag, except in light conditions, in that case some sag may be beneficial. The sailmaker is supposed to figure into the design of the sail the amount of sag that the sail will experience in the wind force that the sail is targeted for....I understand that sails are really only best in a range of 10 targeted knots, anything above may actually damage the sail. Another consideration of winding up the standing rigging, is it's effect on the hull. I already have plenty of stress cracking in my gel coat, but I see no structural damage to any of the chainplates/mounts on my boat. By the way, I make all of my standing rigging adjustments without any backstay- it is used to bend the mast and depower the mainsail. How does this work against a genoa, roller furled or otherwise? Well, Saturday I will be competing against other sailboats and they have roller furling genoas. If the conditions are light, I may be at a disadvantage, but if the wind blows---look out!
Roller Furling plus/minus
Geez You Yours I'd say that about covers every aspect of the subject, thanks. On my own boat, I thought I'd try to make a well made 100% jib perform as well as a genoa that sags. I installed jib cars and tracks, and I obtained a North mylar headsail from a Melges 28 to go with the new deck hardware. Even on light days, the mylar jib keeps a nice shape, but on heavy days the sail deforms only slightly and gives the best performance. Headstay sag is a real concern to anyone who cares about their headsail shaping. On my Mac 26D, keeping the headstay taut starts with preloading the sidestays. I have found that one can set up the fractional rig for best forestay tautness by tensioning the side shrouds as much as possible, but still will allow pinning the forestay when the turnbuckle is all the way open. After cranking down the forestay turnbuckle, the forestay will be as taut as possible and resists induced sag by the foresail's power. No amount of tautness will eliminate sag, except in light conditions, in that case some sag may be beneficial. The sailmaker is supposed to figure into the design of the sail the amount of sag that the sail will experience in the wind force that the sail is targeted for....I understand that sails are really only best in a range of 10 targeted knots, anything above may actually damage the sail. Another consideration of winding up the standing rigging, is it's effect on the hull. I already have plenty of stress cracking in my gel coat, but I see no structural damage to any of the chainplates/mounts on my boat. By the way, I make all of my standing rigging adjustments without any backstay- it is used to bend the mast and depower the mainsail. How does this work against a genoa, roller furled or otherwise? Well, Saturday I will be competing against other sailboats and they have roller furling genoas. If the conditions are light, I may be at a disadvantage, but if the wind blows---look out!
Geez You Yours I'd say that about covers every aspect of the subject, thanks. On my own boat, I thought I'd try to make a well made 100% jib perform as well as a genoa that sags. I installed jib cars and tracks, and I obtained a North mylar headsail from a Melges 28 to go with the new deck hardware. Even on light days, the mylar jib keeps a nice shape, but on heavy days the sail deforms only slightly and gives the best performance. Headstay sag is a real concern to anyone who cares about their headsail shaping. On my Mac 26D, keeping the headstay taut starts with preloading the sidestays. I have found that one can set up the fractional rig for best forestay tautness by tensioning the side shrouds as much as possible, but still will allow pinning the forestay when the turnbuckle is all the way open. After cranking down the forestay turnbuckle, the forestay will be as taut as possible and resists induced sag by the foresail's power. No amount of tautness will eliminate sag, except in light conditions, in that case some sag may be beneficial. The sailmaker is supposed to figure into the design of the sail the amount of sag that the sail will experience in the wind force that the sail is targeted for....I understand that sails are really only best in a range of 10 targeted knots, anything above may actually damage the sail. Another consideration of winding up the standing rigging, is it's effect on the hull. I already have plenty of stress cracking in my gel coat, but I see no structural damage to any of the chainplates/mounts on my boat. By the way, I make all of my standing rigging adjustments without any backstay- it is used to bend the mast and depower the mainsail. How does this work against a genoa, roller furled or otherwise? Well, Saturday I will be competing against other sailboats and they have roller furling genoas. If the conditions are light, I may be at a disadvantage, but if the wind blows---look out!
Schaefer Snapfurl
I do like the Schaefer Snapfurl better than the CDI. I think at the time, my budget would only allow the CDI. I just want to point out, I had my new headstay made with a long swage eye at the top. I drilled a larger hole in the halyard top fitting of the furler to allow the swage eye to fit through, and cut the extrusion long enough that it will spin on the SS swage eye and not the cable. I think this will last a long time, and reduce risk of added wear to the cable. I think the turnbuckle is safe inside the drum. Maybe someday if the CDI stops working well, I'll go with a Schaefer or Harken. But for now, I'm good to go! Doug
I do like the Schaefer Snapfurl better than the CDI. I think at the time, my budget would only allow the CDI. I just want to point out, I had my new headstay made with a long swage eye at the top. I drilled a larger hole in the halyard top fitting of the furler to allow the swage eye to fit through, and cut the extrusion long enough that it will spin on the SS swage eye and not the cable. I think this will last a long time, and reduce risk of added wear to the cable. I think the turnbuckle is safe inside the drum. Maybe someday if the CDI stops working well, I'll go with a Schaefer or Harken. But for now, I'm good to go!
Doug
Schaefer Snapfurl
I do like the Schaefer Snapfurl better than the CDI. I think at the time, my budget would only allow the CDI. I just want to point out, I had my new headstay made with a long swage eye at the top. I drilled a larger hole in the halyard top fitting of the furler to allow the swage eye to fit through, and cut the extrusion long enough that it will spin on the SS swage eye and not the cable. I think this will last a long time, and reduce risk of added wear to the cable. I think the turnbuckle is safe inside the drum. Maybe someday if the CDI stops working well, I'll go with a Schaefer or Harken. But for now, I'm good to go! Doug
I do like the Schaefer Snapfurl better than the CDI. I think at the time, my budget would only allow the CDI. I just want to point out, I had my new headstay made with a long swage eye at the top. I drilled a larger hole in the halyard top fitting of the furler to allow the swage eye to fit through, and cut the extrusion long enough that it will spin on the SS swage eye and not the cable. I think this will last a long time, and reduce risk of added wear to the cable. I think the turnbuckle is safe inside the drum. Maybe someday if the CDI stops working well, I'll go with a Schaefer or Harken. But for now, I'm good to go!
Doug150 Genoa
Here in the mid-west our 150 Genoa can be the difference between sitting on the lake sweltering or enjoying a great sail in light breeze. We do have additional fairleads for the genny but use the same winches.
Here in the mid-west our 150 Genoa can be the difference between sitting on the lake sweltering or enjoying a great sail in light breeze. We do have additional fairleads for the genny but use the same winches.
- Status