Any Questions

Status
Not open for further replies.
May 17, 2004
2,111
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
I'm about running out of sail trim subjects and instead of just picking some aspect of sail trim and running on about it I'd rather deal with a sail trim situation that is presently confronting a sailor. There has to be a couple of beginner/intermediate questions out there. Don't be embarressed because if you have a problem I can guarantee there are about 50 others out there that have the same problem.
 
Jun 10, 2004
15
Montgomery 17 Dahlgren, VA
In-Mast Furling

Hi Don, My question is about in-mast furling main sails with out battens. On my previous boat I had a standard flaking main sail with battens and understood fairly well the dynamics of sail trim. I am now the proud owner of a new boat with in-mast furling. However, it does not have battens and the dynamics of setting up the main sail are just not the same. Are there any special procedures I should follow to get the main trimmed. I have tried to do it like I previously on the other boat but things just don’t work the same without the battens. Thank you for all your wisdom and guidance. Salty Dog, S/V Cariña II
 
O

oldiesrocker2001

Sail Trim

OK Don, I have one: I have a V21 with a smallish jib and original main. I had reefing points put into the old main last year, but the loft suggested that I not cut the reefing line lengths until i'd sailed the reefed rig for a season or two to make sure there was enough line, etc. This prevented me tidying up the slack sail at the boom and also to some extent seeing the sail shape(baggy? wrinkles? etc) when reefed. I had Much trouble turning into the wind when reefed and had to come about excessively fast to even come through the wind to tack. Is it sloppy reefing? weight distribution? Though I don't have a vang yet(ready to install hardware before splashing this month)the keel was down all the way in most instances other than a few shallow areas of biscayne bay last summer...
 
Jun 14, 2005
165
Cal 20 Westport CT
Backstay

Here's another for you, Don. I'm just installing a backstay adjuster. Although I have some sense of what it's going to do for me, I have no idea of what's going to be enough vs too much backstay tension. How do I tell when I've got the sag out of the jib, the main flattened, etc. To be frank, the sag in the jib's not obvious to me when I look at it. (But there again, I've never been good at gauging my main's draft either.)
 
D

Don

Reducing Weather Helm

I have a 1992 H 35.5 and would like to confirm I am taking all the right steps to reduce wether helm. 1st point to confirm is that anything over 20 degrees of heel is counter productive, As the heel increases the weather helm increases and the required rudder angle acts as a brake. The sails are original however I tighten the genoa halyard and move the cars back to flatten the foresail and bring thr sail in as tight as possible? I tighten the foot on the main and the main halyard. With the traveller slight below center I tighten the main sheet and boom vang (no cunningham) I also tension the backstay to help flatten both sails. If the wind builds and I am still heeled excessively I let out the main sheet and bring the traveller up to create twist. All of these adjustments in 15 knots true wind and I am still fighting weather helm - am I missing something? Are new sails the answer? I don't think I should need to reef in 15-20 knots wind? Your comments please, Thanks in advance
 
Jan 10, 2007
62
Hunter 216 Pardise Found
H216 Jib Trim

Don, I sure wish you would take a ride on an H216 and figure out a way to better control the jib trim. I love my H216...but the jib block is in a fixed position. I have moved mine to get better trim when close hauled, but it is lacking on a reach. None of us have figured out how to get some kind of control on the jib trim. Mr. Ernie uses a barber hauler attached to his chain plates...but barber haulers have their limitations. Tracks and cars are out of the question because the cuddy top is significantly curved. Because the boat is a smaller boat, there is no mechanical advantage on the jib. I have thought of using a block on the jib, running the sheet from the existing block through the jib block and back to an eyestrap...giving a 2:1 purchase on the jib sheet. If I installed multiple eye straps and a snap shackle on the working end of the jib sheet, I could adjust the jib trim by snap shackling the sheet to different eye straps. This is pretty clumsy but is the best I have come up with so far.
 
A

ANDREW QUAILE

TACKING WITH GENOA

I HAVE A BENETEAU OCEANIS 523. WE HAVE BEEN SAILING IN QUITE HEAVY WEATHER AND BEEN EXPERIENCING PROBLEMS TACKING. THE GENOA IS A FURLING FRACTIONAL RIG ARRANGEMENT. THE PROBLEMS OCCUR WHEN THE TRAILING GENOA SHEET GETS CAUGHT AROUND THE FRONT OF THE MAST OR AROUND THE STAINLESS STEEL STEPS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE MAST. IF WE PUT TOO MUCH TENSION ON THE TRAILING SHEET TO TRY TO RESTRICT FLAILING OF THE SHEET WE CAN GET STUCK IN IRONS, ALSO THE LARGE GENOA IS NOT ALLOWED TO BEND TO GO AROUND THE MAST. ANY SUGGESTIONS? DIGGER
 

Alan

.
Jun 2, 2004
4,174
Hunter 35.5 LI, NY
Ranger Paul

I have found it difficult to get decent pics of the cabin top mounted jib lead block which makes giving advice a problem. It appears that where this block is located there are a couple of feet or more of relatively flat coach roof available for tracks. Installing tracks that run as far back as possible will allow you to twist off the top of the jib in heavier air and running forward would help on a reach.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.