Any outboard mechanics?
- Thread starter jviss
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Do knot know your exact unit BUT the nut is pretty easy to drill and crack to remove it without doing damage to the unit
NOT real sure its left hand ?
You may need a good bit of heat to remove the carrier without doing any damage
NOT real sure its left hand ?
You may need a good bit of heat to remove the carrier without doing any damage
http://www.sterndrive.info/mercury-outboard-parts/6_thru_15_hp_drawing.html
If It's this one Than PB Blaster then heat but the stuff does burn
And inpact gun does work as it helps shake it lose BUT requires a bit of knowing when to stop
If It's this one Than PB Blaster then heat but the stuff does burn
And inpact gun does work as it helps shake it lose BUT requires a bit of knowing when to stop
Thanks. Tried PB Blaster, and also made an adapter for my tool to mount on an air impact wrench - still didn't budge! Maybe I should soak it in PB for a while. Don't want to heat it, as that will burn the paint.
The first thing you do in marine trade school is get torch saftey training from the welding trade section
That would ruin the gearcase, which is painted with some pretty exotic paint to protect from corrosion. Also, it's a pretty big piece of metal to heat that much. I was wondering, though, if I could pass a current (from my arc welder) through the bearing retainer to the gearcase, to burn out the corrosion that's present at the interface; this trick works with stainless screws corroded into aluminum masts.
If you have the lower unit secure and its not moving You should just need to warm it up a bit and it may take a few heating cooling cycles to get it moving
You most likely break something bad doing it cold as after X amount of time the marine enviro does its thing
A good sterndrive/outboard mech knows how to break the cheepest parts when trying to take something apart that has been toghter to long
You most likely break something bad doing it cold as after X amount of time the marine enviro does its thing
A good sterndrive/outboard mech knows how to break the cheepest parts when trying to take something apart that has been toghter to long
Heat did it.
I cooked the lower in the bearing carrier thread area and, with an impact wrench on my removal tool, it finally came out. The bad news is that it looks as if the threads on the carrier are torn apart; don't know about the housing yet, I'm going to clean it up first, then take a look.
One lesson is that there's an O-ring sealing the bearing carrier on the outside end, so penetrating oil won't reach the threads. I should have applied the penetrating oil, or other stuff, from the inside.
While the gears, and the roller bearing are rusty, overall orange in color, they might clean up. Replacing all of the rusty bits would be cost-prohibitive, compared to the cost of a used lower unit, and the value of the motor. If I can clean it up and make the lower water-tight and serviceable, if not perfect, I'll be happy.
I cooked the lower in the bearing carrier thread area and, with an impact wrench on my removal tool, it finally came out. The bad news is that it looks as if the threads on the carrier are torn apart; don't know about the housing yet, I'm going to clean it up first, then take a look.
One lesson is that there's an O-ring sealing the bearing carrier on the outside end, so penetrating oil won't reach the threads. I should have applied the penetrating oil, or other stuff, from the inside.
While the gears, and the roller bearing are rusty, overall orange in color, they might clean up. Replacing all of the rusty bits would be cost-prohibitive, compared to the cost of a used lower unit, and the value of the motor. If I can clean it up and make the lower water-tight and serviceable, if not perfect, I'll be happy.
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