Download it here. The app is searchable in the Google Play Store under Sailboat Owners.
Sorry iPhone/iPad users, we are still waiting on Apple. :(Click the X in the upper right corner to make this go away
Did u just use hack saw????claskey said:The others are correct. When I purchased my 84 the furler was connected as yours, I moved mine to the correct mounting location to prevent that from happening. To provide room for the drum I had to remove the bow light cross bar and move the light forward.
Thanks! I am still debating if I should do this job myself. Looked closer yesterday and there is no backing plate!!!!! I can't believe it! It looks like it may be soft as the bolts are pulled up thru the deck. And then, I wonder if I move furler forward, if I will have to extend the rigging. May just pay to have this one done!!!!claskey said:Yes I used a plain hack saw with a fine tooth blade, a file and dremal tool to smooth out the weld. I made a new bracket for the light out of alum. and used S.S. hose clamps to hold it in place. The bracket I made was t-shaped with the body wide enough for the light base and I bent the cross at 90 degrees for the mount.
Hmmm, I can take that route and would save a grip of cash. I am thinking there is gonna be some water damage, so will need to address that. I really want to use stainless, but treated plywood would be easier to work with and have good strength. I was just quoted $1300 for worst case scenario. Makes me wanna do it myself.claskey said:You could more than likey tackle this yourself, after looking at you photos to move the headstay your furling adjustment would only have to come out about 1 inch. I would run the halyards forward to the toe rail and put some load on them, the mast will not move that way. After moving the headstay you can make a backing plate out of plywood and use longer screws to draw the cap back down a little at a time.