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Any have this happen?

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Jan 22, 2008
597
Oday 35 and Mariner 2+2 Alexandria, VA
It looks to me like the whole assembly needs rebedded with new backing plate and possibly some fiberglass work on the aft end. It also seems that your forestay is connected to the wrong part of the saddle. It should be on the forward tab so that its load is transferred to the hull along the bow bridle reinforced area, not the aft end where it is attached that transfered a shear load to the plate fascia first. It should not be too dificult to repair providing the deckintegrity is ok, and you won't be able to see that until the sealant is cleaned away and you have also checked the underside of the assembly.
 

Mike 1

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Sep 19, 2010
60
Hunter h27 Sandusky,Ohio
H27

I agree with Dan, on my H27 the forestay connects to the tab all the way forward. Once fixed moving that should prevent it from happening again.
 
Mar 10, 2008
41
Hunter 27_1984 gibraltar MI
The others are correct. When I purchased my 84 the furler was connected as yours, I moved mine to the correct mounting location to prevent that from happening. To provide room for the drum I had to remove the bow light cross bar and move the light forward.
 
Mar 27, 2012
312
Seaward Fox Washougal WA
Checked it today. I will have to move the bar the bow light is on too! Must be why they didn't attach it right in the first place.
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,060
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
Ah, the joys of roller-furling!

This often happens when people fit furling gear and find out that either the forestay, laden with the furler foil, is too heavy or a newly-recut forestay is too short that they can't connect it to its proper point, so they attempt to cut corners-- which, as you have discovered, essentially amounts to redesigning the rig. And this is what happens.

(Actually I'm amazed it got to that degree. Did it go suddenly? I wonder if the stress fault had not been evident beforehand.)

Since my boat had been whacked into a piling by the PO, I removed my stemhead fitting and re-'glassed and faired the whole deck area. It's not a hard job to do, providing you can get the forestay completely off the boat and still support the rig whilst you work on it.
 
Mar 27, 2012
312
Seaward Fox Washougal WA
claskey said:
The others are correct. When I purchased my 84 the furler was connected as yours, I moved mine to the correct mounting location to prevent that from happening. To provide room for the drum I had to remove the bow light cross bar and move the light forward.
Did u just use hack saw????
 
Mar 10, 2008
41
Hunter 27_1984 gibraltar MI
Yes I used a plain hack saw with a fine tooth blade, a file and dremal tool to smooth out the weld. I made a new bracket for the light out of alum. and used S.S. hose clamps to hold it in place. The bracket I made was t-shaped with the body wide enough for the light base and I bent the cross at 90 degrees for the mount.
 
Mar 27, 2012
312
Seaward Fox Washougal WA
claskey said:
Yes I used a plain hack saw with a fine tooth blade, a file and dremal tool to smooth out the weld. I made a new bracket for the light out of alum. and used S.S. hose clamps to hold it in place. The bracket I made was t-shaped with the body wide enough for the light base and I bent the cross at 90 degrees for the mount.
Thanks! I am still debating if I should do this job myself. Looked closer yesterday and there is no backing plate!!!!! I can't believe it! It looks like it may be soft as the bolts are pulled up thru the deck. And then, I wonder if I move furler forward, if I will have to extend the rigging. May just pay to have this one done!!!!
 
Mar 10, 2008
41
Hunter 27_1984 gibraltar MI
You could more than likey tackle this yourself, after looking at you photos to move the headstay your furling adjustment would only have to come out about 1 inch. I would run the halyards forward to the toe rail and put some load on them, the mast will not move that way. After moving the headstay you can make a backing plate out of plywood and use longer screws to draw the cap back down a little at a time.
 
Mar 27, 2012
312
Seaward Fox Washougal WA
claskey said:
You could more than likey tackle this yourself, after looking at you photos to move the headstay your furling adjustment would only have to come out about 1 inch. I would run the halyards forward to the toe rail and put some load on them, the mast will not move that way. After moving the headstay you can make a backing plate out of plywood and use longer screws to draw the cap back down a little at a time.
Hmmm, I can take that route and would save a grip of cash. I am thinking there is gonna be some water damage, so will need to address that. I really want to use stainless, but treated plywood would be easier to work with and have good strength. I was just quoted $1300 for worst case scenario. Makes me wanna do it myself.
 
Mar 27, 2012
312
Seaward Fox Washougal WA
Took all wood work out and got up under the chain locker and to the bow. It's all rotten. I can't believe it hasn't ripped thru the deck. I secured my jib halyard to the bow toe rail and limped it to boat shop. I had to remove all the v-birth woodwork to get in there plus will save me some labor costs and was surprised how much water intrusion there was. Anywho, guess the repair shop says they use a carbon fiber like plastic now instead of ss! Just as strong and water can't touch the stuff.
 
Mar 27, 2012
312
Seaward Fox Washougal WA
So Schooner Creek will be fixing Peregrine. Moved furler to where it is supposed be (tip of bow), cutting out all rot, and using 1/2 G-10 backing plate in the bow! Said the G-10 is super strong and will not absorb water or ever rot! Anyone familiar with this product?
 
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