any experience replacing plug on Raymarine Autotiller?

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May 18, 2010
543
Oday 27 Gulfport, MS
My Raymarine ST2000+ autotiller plug cracked up and failed on me. I just received a replacement from Raymarine, but there are no assembly instructions.

Has anyone had to replace their plug on the end of the cable coming from the autotiller? I don't see how to open up either the original or the replacement to connect the wires internally? I'm stumped!

Thanks.
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
My Raymarine ST2000+ autotiller plug cracked up and failed on me. I just received a replacement from Raymarine, but there are no assembly instructions.

Has anyone had to replace their plug on the end of the cable coming from the autotiller? I don't see how to open up either the original or the replacement to connect the wires internally? I'm stumped!

Thanks.
I have an older ST 1000+ with a straight plastic plug. I've never had a need to take it apart but it has a plastic nut near where the cable comes in. Is yours like that? Raymarine has a web site but it's down right now. Their factory is in New Hampshire and they have an 800 phone number that you can call. I'm pretty sure that there repair service is located there too. I remember talking to them years ago when the end cap broke on the control rod. They mailed it to me and didn't charge me. They were pretty good to talk to. Do you have their phone number? If you don't I could probably get it for you.
 
May 18, 2010
543
Oday 27 Gulfport, MS
I see that nut, but...

Thanks Joe,
I see the nut and on the replacement plug I can unscrew it. Unfortunately that doesn't cause the plug to separate any further to get at the wiring connectors inside. It appears too that the previous owner epoxied the plug unit together when it started to fall apart, so I can't reverse engineer (dismantle) the old one to figure out how it works.

Raymarine's website just came back up, so I have their telephone number now and will call them from work tomorrow. Glad to hear they have been helpful in the past--hopefully they will be helpful for me as well.

Regards,
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
I'm not sure about this Jonny, but if you look at the plug where the prongs come out, there are some tiny square blocks around the inside of the scew on where a special tool fits into it. It could be some kind of a ring that comes out through the bottom that holds the guts to this thing. The nut on the other side of the plug would need to be removed allowing the wire to slide forward to get at the screw contacts. That's what it looks like to me. They sent you the part and didn't send you the tool to remove the guts.
 
May 18, 2010
543
Oday 27 Gulfport, MS
I'm not sure about this Jonny, but if you look at the plug where the prongs come out, there are some tiny square blocks around the inside of the scew on where a special tool fits into it. It could be some kind of a ring that comes out through the bottom that holds the guts to this thing. The nut on the other side of the plug would need to be removed allowing the wire to slide forward to get at the screw contacts. That's what it looks like to me. They sent you the part and didn't send you the tool to remove the guts.
You're right. The original unit came with a plug cover that has mating teeth to serve as the tool. The replacement plug cap is different and will no longer serve as the opening tool. Fortunately the ring can be spun with a screwdriver or needle nose pliars, so I am able to proceed from here. Thanks for the extra info I needed to figure this out. I'm anxious to get my autotiller back inboard again.
Regards,
JQ
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
You're right. The original unit came with a plug cover that has mating teeth to serve as the tool. The replacement plug cap is different and will no longer serve as the opening tool. Fortunately the ring can be spun with a screwdriver or needle nose pliars, so I am able to proceed from here. Thanks for the extra info I needed to figure this out. I'm anxious to get my autotiller back inboard again.
Regards,
JQ
Jonny,
I wouldn't sail without one. I've been spoiled for years ever since I first bought my Autohelm 800. I'd still have it today until it croaked one year and a Raymarine techy told me that they no longer carried parts for it. If you have the outlet in a spot where the plug can break again, you may want to move it somewhere else. I have mine mounted on the inside transom.
 

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May 18, 2010
543
Oday 27 Gulfport, MS
That's a real good thought, Joe. Mine is under the starboard bench near the transom, but I seem to recall hitting it once or twice already--probably explains why the cable plug failed. I like your idea of putting it on the transom and will put that on the to do llist.
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
That's a real good thought, Joe. Mine is under the starboard bench near the transom, but I seem to recall hitting it once or twice already--probably explains why the cable plug failed. I like your idea of putting it on the transom and will put that on the to do llist.
The plug that was on my AH-800 was shaped like an "L" and it just plugged into the socket with no threaded nut, but it would lose contact once in a while. I was very disappointed when I saw the plug on my new AH ST-1000+ because it was long and made of cheap plastic, but I was always glad that I installed the outlet on the transom. Sometimes I coat the threads of the nut and receptacle with cooking oil to make it easy to thread on. The threads are so fine that you have to be careful that it doesn't get cross threaded. When I put my boat up on the mooring, the Autohelm comes home with me in a large canvas carry-on bag.
I would seriously consider moving the receptacle Jonny to a better spot where it won't get hit. Take care.
Joe
 
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