need to have a fuel pump changed and the fuel system checked out. DIY is not a possibility at the time. Little Creek area of Norfolk, VA.
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i need a house-call
Im in FL right now and need the motor to be working when i get there next month.
Im in FL right now and need the motor to be working when i get there next month.
Frank's Repair
Frank Mann is a certified mechaninc who left our yard to freelance with a mobile workshop. He has 25 years experience and is highly ethical. cell 804 824-4376.
Frank Mann is a certified mechaninc who left our yard to freelance with a mobile workshop. He has 25 years experience and is highly ethical. cell 804 824-4376.
DOn,
Here's another, David Precision Diesel 757-373-5238 Tell him you were refered by Tim Walters @ Engines 1 Good luck, Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
Here's another, David Precision Diesel 757-373-5238 Tell him you were refered by Tim Walters @ Engines 1 Good luck, Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
Fuel
Don, Have you considered just buying a fuel pump and putting it on yourself first? It's really easy. That's the first thing the shop guy will do any way. If that's not the problem, you'll have spare pump anyway, which can sure come in handy. Also, don't forget before you do anything else, to change your fuel filter and drain your fuel water separator. Then make sure you've got flow by cracking the injectors and see that there is flow. They will intermittently squirt fuel just like a little airless paint sprayer when functioning properly. I'll bet you that fixes the problem. 95% of deisel issues are related to clean clear fuel flow. Good luck. TM
Don, Have you considered just buying a fuel pump and putting it on yourself first? It's really easy. That's the first thing the shop guy will do any way. If that's not the problem, you'll have spare pump anyway, which can sure come in handy. Also, don't forget before you do anything else, to change your fuel filter and drain your fuel water separator. Then make sure you've got flow by cracking the injectors and see that there is flow. They will intermittently squirt fuel just like a little airless paint sprayer when functioning properly. I'll bet you that fixes the problem. 95% of deisel issues are related to clean clear fuel flow. Good luck. TM
oh i worked on it for a while last thanksgiving
no fuel flow, new filters, fuel wont even flow with the hand pump lever on the pump. The prime pump on the Rancor filter will pump, though. When it went out, it was lopeing several times before hand while motoring all day on wavy but no wind water, when we went to anchor, it died when we turned down the throttle. I changed the filter, as it had ran old fuel a tank full before, and couldn't get it to prime due to no flow from the lift pump. I had to sail out of sandy shoal inlet at a bad angle, a very nail biting experience, but made it all the way to my slip in Norfolk under sail. I tried to change my pump last thanksgiving but couldn't get it off, something is holding it on that i cant see, so, i have Dave who was referred below going and fixing it up for me so it will be ready when i get there next month to bring it to Jaxonville, FL (most of the way home)..
no fuel flow, new filters, fuel wont even flow with the hand pump lever on the pump. The prime pump on the Rancor filter will pump, though. When it went out, it was lopeing several times before hand while motoring all day on wavy but no wind water, when we went to anchor, it died when we turned down the throttle. I changed the filter, as it had ran old fuel a tank full before, and couldn't get it to prime due to no flow from the lift pump. I had to sail out of sandy shoal inlet at a bad angle, a very nail biting experience, but made it all the way to my slip in Norfolk under sail. I tried to change my pump last thanksgiving but couldn't get it off, something is holding it on that i cant see, so, i have Dave who was referred below going and fixing it up for me so it will be ready when i get there next month to bring it to Jaxonville, FL (most of the way home)..
Perkins 4.108 circa 1973
big, old, heavy, but solid and simple. Thinking about pulling it for something lighter & smaller if it ever totally gives up the ghost... Saw some tiny (relative) 33hp motors at the boat show that were much lighter and more modern.
big, old, heavy, but solid and simple. Thinking about pulling it for something lighter & smaller if it ever totally gives up the ghost... Saw some tiny (relative) 33hp motors at the boat show that were much lighter and more modern.
Don,
I'm sure Dave will get it up and running. One thing to note. The 220 series Racor with the hand pump in the head casting has been know to be an air leak. I'd strongly recomend upgrading to a 500 series Racor. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
I'm sure Dave will get it up and running. One thing to note. The 220 series Racor with the hand pump in the head casting has been know to be an air leak. I'd strongly recomend upgrading to a 500 series Racor. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
I got the Rancor from West marine last
November, im not sure what series it is at the moment. Its all plastic with a clear base, pump in the top, spin on steel 10 micron can filter in the middle. Before i added this filter the only filter the engine had was a single can filter on the engine itself, and no water separator. when i get it down here, i plan on adding another filter in an easy to get to point to filter down to 2 micron. Ive seen several setups with vacuum gauges, what are they for?
November, im not sure what series it is at the moment. Its all plastic with a clear base, pump in the top, spin on steel 10 micron can filter in the middle. Before i added this filter the only filter the engine had was a single can filter on the engine itself, and no water separator. when i get it down here, i plan on adding another filter in an easy to get to point to filter down to 2 micron. Ive seen several setups with vacuum gauges, what are they for?
Racors and stuff
Don, the unit you describe sounds like a 220 series. The guage is for measuring vacuum in the filter as the vacuum increases the filter is more cloged. I generaly don't recomend 2mcn filter for every day use. They clog to quickly, and anything smaller that 10mcn will pass thru the injector pump and injectors. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
Don, the unit you describe sounds like a 220 series. The guage is for measuring vacuum in the filter as the vacuum increases the filter is more cloged. I generaly don't recomend 2mcn filter for every day use. They clog to quickly, and anything smaller that 10mcn will pass thru the injector pump and injectors. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
2µM Racor
Use of a 2µM filter (OEM is 10-20µM) will put a severe load on the lift pump. If you use a 2µM in place of the normal 10-20µM you MUST increase the surface area of the 2µM by about a factor of 5 times (5 times larger surface area). A 2µM should 'protected' by a 10µM (pre-filter) ... this will insure sufficient on-stream-life. The 'most damaging particle' in a diesel engine is 20µM, a 2µM is 'overkill' and may damage the lift pump (unless you over-size the effective filtration surface area). Use a 10-15uM filter to protect a diesel (these are not very efficient nor 'accurate' filters so you need just a 'slightly lower' rating than the 20µM) Filters are 'sized' according to GPM/deltaP - gallons per minute versus differential operating pressure .... if you put a smaller retention size filter in place of an OEM larger size filter .... you need to adjust for GPM/deltaP. If you dont make the adjustment you will get 'very short' service life and will get high differential pressure (low flow) through the filter media. That high operating differential pressure (vacuum) can soon break or wear out the diaphragm in the lift pump. It takes more 'work' to operate a filter with smaller retention size. (Im deeply involved in 'filtration engineering')
Use of a 2µM filter (OEM is 10-20µM) will put a severe load on the lift pump. If you use a 2µM in place of the normal 10-20µM you MUST increase the surface area of the 2µM by about a factor of 5 times (5 times larger surface area). A 2µM should 'protected' by a 10µM (pre-filter) ... this will insure sufficient on-stream-life. The 'most damaging particle' in a diesel engine is 20µM, a 2µM is 'overkill' and may damage the lift pump (unless you over-size the effective filtration surface area). Use a 10-15uM filter to protect a diesel (these are not very efficient nor 'accurate' filters so you need just a 'slightly lower' rating than the 20µM) Filters are 'sized' according to GPM/deltaP - gallons per minute versus differential operating pressure .... if you put a smaller retention size filter in place of an OEM larger size filter .... you need to adjust for GPM/deltaP. If you dont make the adjustment you will get 'very short' service life and will get high differential pressure (low flow) through the filter media. That high operating differential pressure (vacuum) can soon break or wear out the diaphragm in the lift pump. It takes more 'work' to operate a filter with smaller retention size. (Im deeply involved in 'filtration engineering')
ok, thanks for the info
ill leave off the 2 micro filter then. Why do some systems ive seen have a 2 or 3 stage filter? overkill? or is it 20µM then 10µM?
ill leave off the 2 micro filter then. Why do some systems ive seen have a 2 or 3 stage filter? overkill? or is it 20µM then 10µM?
Each stage protects the next stage......
Typical Racor type of filters are offered @ 30uM then 15uM then 2uM. In nature the smaller the particle size the exponentially more there are. Filters should be sized so that the debris is captured ON the surface of the media and not IN the media --- low velocity 'through' the filter. The problem is that such small particles 'agglomerate' (grow) into larger particles expecially when the fuel is 'old'. Fuel is considered 'old' after about 6-12 months. A periodic cleaning of the inside of the tank will keep the particles in 'check'. Filters only do what they're supposed to do: remove particles; if you have a contamination problem go to the root cause and clean the tank. If filters are plugging dont change the filters but CLEAN the tank first. The presence of copper components in a fuel system greatly accelerates the 'break down' of fuel oil. A 30-15-2 series is for a very dirty system (known / historical problems)
Typical Racor type of filters are offered @ 30uM then 15uM then 2uM. In nature the smaller the particle size the exponentially more there are. Filters should be sized so that the debris is captured ON the surface of the media and not IN the media --- low velocity 'through' the filter. The problem is that such small particles 'agglomerate' (grow) into larger particles expecially when the fuel is 'old'. Fuel is considered 'old' after about 6-12 months. A periodic cleaning of the inside of the tank will keep the particles in 'check'. Filters only do what they're supposed to do: remove particles; if you have a contamination problem go to the root cause and clean the tank. If filters are plugging dont change the filters but CLEAN the tank first. The presence of copper components in a fuel system greatly accelerates the 'break down' of fuel oil. A 30-15-2 series is for a very dirty system (known / historical problems)
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