Antifouling blue?

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Steven Gautney

I always raise the tiller out of the water when leaving the boat in a slip . . .after my recent bottom paint job, I get blue paint . . . apparently from the paint coming off on my hands after grabbing the tiller blade. . .is this normal? Should the paint be rubbing off like this?
 
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Sean Coerse

Paint

Sounds like the bottom paint is oxidizing because it is not in the water. I also keep the rudder up on my H240 while in the slip. I use Micron CSC, and I haven't noticed this to be a problem
 
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Tim

yes.

Yes. It depends on the brand, but most bottom paints do that. The way it works is by allowing the copper oxide (poison) to dissolve into the water.
 
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John Thomas

Similar experience

I've had the same thing happen with my H23 that I bought last year. It has been that way since the day I bought it and the old owner seemed to act as if it was normal. I believe it may be called "ablation" or "ablative paint". The outer-most layer of the paint slowly wears away and so does anything attached to it...thus you get it's inherant anti-fouling properties. I have never read anything about this so I may not know what I am talking about, but it does make since...to me anyway.
 
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Paul Jordan

It's Normal

Same thing is true on my less than one year old 240. Ablative paints will come off because that's what they are designed to do: shed unwanted organic matter (anti-fouling). It is nothing to be concerned about. My question is: what do you guys raise the rudder out of the water when the boat is in the slip? Doing so substantially increases the amount of freeboard facing the wind, which puts more strain on docklines in a blow. If the rudder is coated with antifouling I can't think of a good reason for lifting it out of water every time. Just Curious.
 
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Steve Gautney

Paul is probably right . . .

On other peoples boats I've often looked down at the tiller to see it covered with green/brown stuff that grows on anything left in the water. I hoped to avoid this by raising the tiller blade. . .but you make a good point . . .and I was looking for a reason to discontinue the practice. Thanks
 
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Alan Long

tiller up

If you've ever notice the way the tiller is attached to the rudder, you will understand why it is a good idea to raise it. It is bolted through the aluminum tiller with no reinforcement. With the tiller tied rigidly and the wave action wiggling the rudder it will wallow out the bolt holes and cause it to get loose and floppy. It is not a big deal to fix it, but its not that big of a deal to raise the rudder either. Alan Long S/V Random Access
 
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MIke B

raising rudder,

I have tried both methods, and it seemed to me as if , there was more movement with rudder raised, than in its intended positioin, Where is crazy Dave when we need him most, Mike
 
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Rick Webb

My Manual Says Not to Paint it

I did again anyway because it was painted when I bought it. My tiller is also wollered out. How did you fix it? I was going to drill another hole foward or aft of the present one temporarally, also though of drilling a larger hole and putting in a bushing. The big plan is to get a wood tiller to replace the aluminiun one. Not sure what difference it makes if the rudder is up or down, if you secure it with the tiller is is going to do the same thing.
 
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Alan Long

Bushings

Hmmm...didn't realize this would be such a hot issue. My slip is largely protected from the wind and my theory was that the greater density of water would exert more wiggling force on the rudder, thus...more wallowing out of the holes. I guess it does depend on the situation where your boat is kept. I had my local machine shop make a hard aluminum bushing for me, I'm going to enlarge the hole in the tiller and insert the bushing then put the original bolt back in. We'll see if it works. The machine shop also made aluminum replacements for the plastic spacer thingeys in the rudder. The whole set cost me 20 bucks. Alan Long S/V Random Access (94 23.5)
 
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Rick Webb

Thanks Alan

I guess what we need to do is secure the rudder somwhere other than the tiller. I am going to look at mine today and if I come up with anything I will post it here. If that bushing were welded onto the tiller I think the setup would last forever. I wonder if the bushing will wear out the tiller just as the bolt has. Something to think about before you put it all together again.
 
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Alan Long

By the Way, Rick

I tried the rubber transom pad from Boats US. It is pretty amazing. The latch for the swim ladder no longer makes a buzzing noise in sympathy with the motor. Seems lots a lot of the other things that vibrate in sympathy with the motor are either gone or greatly reduced. Highly recommended.
 
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Rick Webb

Possible Solution

Iwas just out at the marina looking at the boat and if i put an eye bolt on the starboard side of the rudder housing and on on the engine mount. I could then run a ridgid brace between the two to hold the rudder in place. It does not seen as though it would be too compicated or expensive a task and would also be great for towing. What would really work well are some of the control rod ends used on airplanes. I'll have to look around to see if there are any "extra ones" laying around that are going to waste.
 
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Rick Webb

Again, Thanks Alan

We missed getting for the wife for Valentines Day but our Anniversery is coming up so I now know what to get her.
 
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Rick Webb

Tiller Fix

I took my tiller to the local Machine Shop to have it fixed. They welded a peice in to cover the bolt holes the one that was wobbled out was about an inch long. They then drilled it out again looks good as new. Makes a big difference in the feel also, it had been wobbled out since we bought the thing I thought that was normal untill it got worse. Now to secure the rudder I have bought a set of gudgeons and pintals to put between the rudder housing and the engine mounting block. After I get this done I'll report back with the dimensions and all.
 
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