To all: We would like to present a small tidbit of information to the group about an anti fowling product which can be used on your propeller. This will not save us all from the wow’s of the pesky little barnacles but at least reduce some of their impact. DESITINE. Back when we all had little kids in diapers you may remember the diaper rash ointment? I can say from personal experience, here in the waters of the Puget Sound, that the stuff does inhibit biological growth to my propeller and water intakes. The material will not survive on the face of the propeller if the propeller is used to propel the boat. (Sluffs off) It will however keep my propeller clean while I’m away and the boat is kept at its slip. It is often used in warmer waters on the bottoms of dingy’s. The active ingredient in DESITINE is zinc oxide. (We think) May be worth a try to you. Good luck. Sincerely, Kevin L. Woody
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Tom Wanderer
learned the hard way
I bought my boat used with a fairly new outboard. The lower unit was painted with copper anti fouling paint. Last summer I the whole lower unit dissolved into junk (even with a new zinc) because of the electrical reaction between the copper and the salt water. The Zinc ended up looking new at the end opf the season
I bought my boat used with a fairly new outboard. The lower unit was painted with copper anti fouling paint. Last summer I the whole lower unit dissolved into junk (even with a new zinc) because of the electrical reaction between the copper and the salt water. The Zinc ended up looking new at the end opf the season
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LaDonna Bubak - Planet Catalina
Any experience with STP?
I'm lucky cuz I sail my Catalina 27 in fresh water but I've heard people say STP gas treatment will do the same thing. Anyone with personal anecdotal experience??
I'm lucky cuz I sail my Catalina 27 in fresh water but I've heard people say STP gas treatment will do the same thing. Anyone with personal anecdotal experience??
Hey Tom W!.
Tom: Are you sure that your problem with the lower unit did was not caused because you had copper paint on the unit?
Tom: Are you sure that your problem with the lower unit did was not caused because you had copper paint on the unit?
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Dave Ullrich
Don't use STP!
Umm..it seems to me that using STP would be illegal and unethical. This is a petro. distilate. In oterwords your polluting the waters you love badly. It's like dumping used motor oil into the water...just not a good idea.
Umm..it seems to me that using STP would be illegal and unethical. This is a petro. distilate. In oterwords your polluting the waters you love badly. It's like dumping used motor oil into the water...just not a good idea.
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LaDonna Bubak - Planet Catalina
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Justin - O'day Owner's Web
Please raise your outboards . . .
. . . instead of anti-fouling them. There are enough toxins entering our waters without adding unnecessary bottom paint. If you raise your outboard when you're done with it, painting it becomes a non-issue. </editorial> Justin - O'day Owner's Web
. . . instead of anti-fouling them. There are enough toxins entering our waters without adding unnecessary bottom paint. If you raise your outboard when you're done with it, painting it becomes a non-issue. </editorial> Justin - O'day Owner's Web
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Jim Kolstoe
Maybe that's why . . .
Justin, do you think maybe raising my outboard is why I've never had fouling, nor needed to replace the zinc, on my 1986 outboard, even though the boat has been is in the water 6 months of the year since 12/86? As you said, a simple, cheap, solution, with no pollution byproducts. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
Justin, do you think maybe raising my outboard is why I've never had fouling, nor needed to replace the zinc, on my 1986 outboard, even though the boat has been is in the water 6 months of the year since 12/86? As you said, a simple, cheap, solution, with no pollution byproducts. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
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Rodney Kidd
Copper & Aluminum
Tom, Aluminum (the metal most used in lower units and outdrives) is a less "noble" (acts like a zink) than copper. What happened to you lower unit is that the aluminum in your lower unit was the "zink" that protected the copper based bottom paint. Tin based bottom paints must be used on outdrives and lower units to prevent the kind of corrosion you experienced. Tin is less "noble" than aluminum. Aluminum boats also use tin based paints. A penny dropped into the bilge of an aluminum boat will eventually leave a penny sized hole in the boat! Other posts have the right idea regarding outboards - raise 'em out of the water whenever possible. Here's a table - metals at the top are the most active or least noble: Magnesium and magnesium alloys CB75 aluminium anode alloy Zinc B605 Aluminium anode alloy Galvanised steel or galvanised wrought iron Aluminium 7072 (cladding alloy) Aluminium 5456 Aluminium 5086 Aluminium 5052 Aluminium 3003, 1100, 6061, 356 Cadmium Aluminium 2117 (rivet alloy) Mild steel Wrought Iron Cast iron Ni-Resist 13% chromium stainless steel, type 410 (active) 50-50 lead tin solder 18-8 stainless steel, type 304 (active) 18-8 3% Mo stainless steel, type 316 (active) Lead Tin Muntz metal Manganese bronze Naval Brass (60% copper-39% zinc) Nickel (active) 78% Ni-13,5% Cr-6% Fe (Inconel) (active) Yellow brass (65% copper-35% zinc) Admiralty brass Aluminium bronze Red brass (85% copper-15% zinc) Copper Silicon bronze 5% Zn-20% Ni-75% Cu 90% Cu-10% Ni 70% Cu-30% Ni 88% Cu-2% Zn-10% Sn (Composition G-bronze) 88% Cu-3% Zn-6,5% Sn-1,5% Pb (Composition M-bronze) Nickel (passive) 78% Ni-13,5% Cr-6% Fe (Inconel) (Passive) 70% Ni-30% Cu 18-8 stainless steel, type 304 (passive) 18-8 3% Mo stainless steel, type 316 (passive) Hastelloy C Titanium Gold Platinum Graphite Notice that aluminum is near the top and copper is roughly in the middle, aluminum will "protect" the copper. Rodney Kidd C-38 #297, Flying Bear
Tom, Aluminum (the metal most used in lower units and outdrives) is a less "noble" (acts like a zink) than copper. What happened to you lower unit is that the aluminum in your lower unit was the "zink" that protected the copper based bottom paint. Tin based bottom paints must be used on outdrives and lower units to prevent the kind of corrosion you experienced. Tin is less "noble" than aluminum. Aluminum boats also use tin based paints. A penny dropped into the bilge of an aluminum boat will eventually leave a penny sized hole in the boat! Other posts have the right idea regarding outboards - raise 'em out of the water whenever possible. Here's a table - metals at the top are the most active or least noble: Magnesium and magnesium alloys CB75 aluminium anode alloy Zinc B605 Aluminium anode alloy Galvanised steel or galvanised wrought iron Aluminium 7072 (cladding alloy) Aluminium 5456 Aluminium 5086 Aluminium 5052 Aluminium 3003, 1100, 6061, 356 Cadmium Aluminium 2117 (rivet alloy) Mild steel Wrought Iron Cast iron Ni-Resist 13% chromium stainless steel, type 410 (active) 50-50 lead tin solder 18-8 stainless steel, type 304 (active) 18-8 3% Mo stainless steel, type 316 (active) Lead Tin Muntz metal Manganese bronze Naval Brass (60% copper-39% zinc) Nickel (active) 78% Ni-13,5% Cr-6% Fe (Inconel) (active) Yellow brass (65% copper-35% zinc) Admiralty brass Aluminium bronze Red brass (85% copper-15% zinc) Copper Silicon bronze 5% Zn-20% Ni-75% Cu 90% Cu-10% Ni 70% Cu-30% Ni 88% Cu-2% Zn-10% Sn (Composition G-bronze) 88% Cu-3% Zn-6,5% Sn-1,5% Pb (Composition M-bronze) Nickel (passive) 78% Ni-13,5% Cr-6% Fe (Inconel) (Passive) 70% Ni-30% Cu 18-8 stainless steel, type 304 (passive) 18-8 3% Mo stainless steel, type 316 (passive) Hastelloy C Titanium Gold Platinum Graphite Notice that aluminum is near the top and copper is roughly in the middle, aluminum will "protect" the copper. Rodney Kidd C-38 #297, Flying Bear
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Ernie Rodriguez
Further info
Crusing Design, Inc. sells a paint that does the same thing for painting their urelane propellers. Doesn't stick to metal propellers as well.
Crusing Design, Inc. sells a paint that does the same thing for painting their urelane propellers. Doesn't stick to metal propellers as well.
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