Anti foul for 260
- Thread starter yachtsman
- Start date
- Status
What you use is a regional issue. My needs for saltwater in SW Fl are different than freshwater in NY or wherever but either way consider that the boat will be on the hard or trailered which some formulas don't like.
Sanding is a necessity but only do it by hand with an 80grit paper and then just to rough the surface(see pic). You'll get a feel for it pretty quick. Proper repairs to dings or blems will take most of your time.
Interlux has a pretty complete line of products and how-to articles from mold wax release solvents to bottom paint choices. It's not rocket science but asking questions is good. Their free 800-hotline is very helpful and pretty quick too.
A 2nd coat over existing ablatives is another issue and the Interlux hotline can help there too.
Good luck, Mike
Sanding is a necessity but only do it by hand with an 80grit paper and then just to rough the surface(see pic). You'll get a feel for it pretty quick. Proper repairs to dings or blems will take most of your time.
Interlux has a pretty complete line of products and how-to articles from mold wax release solvents to bottom paint choices. It's not rocket science but asking questions is good. Their free 800-hotline is very helpful and pretty quick too.
A 2nd coat over existing ablatives is another issue and the Interlux hotline can help there too.
Good luck, Mike
Attachments
Last edited:
Ok, let the expert answer.
Assuming that you are on a lake in New York, the season is not long enough and you have marine growth and zebra mussles to contend with. Most anti fouling paints will dry up out of the water after 60 days. Therefore, you may want to consider a softer paint where the anti fouling properties do not dry out and can be launched the following season without having to paint every season. Try Micron CSC or West Marine CCP which are compatible paints for the job. I also understand that on the Great Lakes and possibly the finger lakes, VC 17 is used. Good luck
Crazy Dave Condon
Assuming that you are on a lake in New York, the season is not long enough and you have marine growth and zebra mussles to contend with. Most anti fouling paints will dry up out of the water after 60 days. Therefore, you may want to consider a softer paint where the anti fouling properties do not dry out and can be launched the following season without having to paint every season. Try Micron CSC or West Marine CCP which are compatible paints for the job. I also understand that on the Great Lakes and possibly the finger lakes, VC 17 is used. Good luck
Crazy Dave Condon
Hello Crazy Dave, Have been away sailing around the world for past few years. Great to read you are still with us! 
Dave do you have any links to pictures of the 260 on the hard....
Need to get her done in next few weeks so anything will help.
Mark
Dave do you have any links to pictures of the 260 on the hard....
Need to get her done in next few weeks so anything will help.
Mark
I have some pictures of when I re-did my anti-fouling on the hard. Will these help?
http://sports.webshots.com/album/559934105BtpmRO
http://sports.webshots.com/album/559934105BtpmRO
When I did my H26...
I sanded and used Interlux 2000 (epoxy vapor barrier) first because, as I understand it, bottom paint is not a vapor barrier. So, the only way to
get past the water intrusion into the gelcoat (and blisters) is to apply a vapor barrier. It’s expensive. It adds weight. And I would do it again.
I then used Micron Extra. One note on that - it was suggested to use a different color on the first coat, so you can tell when it's worn down and time to re-paint. Problem is, the (minor) flaking I've had has occured between the two colors. As though there is a bonding issue (I used black fist, then blue).
I sanded and used Interlux 2000 (epoxy vapor barrier) first because, as I understand it, bottom paint is not a vapor barrier. So, the only way to
get past the water intrusion into the gelcoat (and blisters) is to apply a vapor barrier. It’s expensive. It adds weight. And I would do it again.
I then used Micron Extra. One note on that - it was suggested to use a different color on the first coat, so you can tell when it's worn down and time to re-paint. Problem is, the (minor) flaking I've had has occured between the two colors. As though there is a bonding issue (I used black fist, then blue).
- Status