I have a 1980 Catalina 25 and am installing a new shakespeare antennae and wiring cable and would like to know how much wiring to buy. This is a new install (I'm moving the antennea from the stern pulpit to the top of the mast). I'll need to send the wire down through the bulkhead and dinnette area to the campanion way. The radio is attached to the underside of the ladder in the companion way. Thanks
antennae wire installation
- Thread starter flepage
- Start date
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
Well, assuming you are standard rig, you should have about 28 foot of mast, add 2 ft or so for error, and I would add another 15-20 ft to allow for concealment of wiring inside the cabin. I would rather have too much than not enough as wire isnt that costly
What bubblehead is right. Keep the cable as short as is practical. In other words, a few extra feet will not make a difference, but 20-30 extra feet coiled up will. You will find varying opinions on coaxial cable but for all practical purposes, you don't have to spend a small fortune on cable for good performance.
At the top end is LMR400 which sells around $1 a foot and is almost 1/2 inch in diameter ( .405) They make a more flexible version which is about 25% more in cost. Assuming a 50' run, your loss would be around .75-1dB total - which is very good.
RG213 is the same size and a little more flexible. Cost is about $0.90 a foot but total loss would be around 1.5-1.75dB which is still very good and indistinguishable (signal wise) from the LMR400 at this length.
LMR240 is a step down in size , around 1/4 inch diameter ( .240) and is yet a little lossier than the larger cables. It costs around $0.70 per foot and your total loss would be around 1.5-2 dB, still good. This cable is very flexible and small which could make a big difference when you are trying to route t he cable to the radio.
RG8X is often what is supplied with some marine antennas. It's lossier than the LMR240 and around the same size. Total loss in your case would be about 3dB, which is a little more significant ( 50%). Cost is pretty low at $0.30 a foot or even cheaper.
There's a trade-off of power/signal loss with various cables but the difference between some is mostly insignificant. I like the LMR240 cable myself. It's small enough to easily handle and the loss/cost is reasonable. Whatever you do, don't use RG58 on any runs over 10 feet or so.
Connectors are important as well. You can make basic PL-259's work on any of the above cables but will have to be fairly handy with a soldering iron to install. Crimp connectors are fine as long as they are properly installed but are made specifically for the type of cable.
Cable prep and proper connector installation is important. It doesn't matter if you buy the best cable available if the connectors are installed improperly. They aren't waterproof or even "weatherproof". You'll save yourself some future headaches if you seal the connector at the antenna during installation. Electrical tape is better than nothing but will only last about a year. Ideally, wrap in electrical tape, then butyl tape, then electrical tape. This makes an effective seal and is still the standard that professionals use. I have seen liquid tape used also but can't attest to how long it lasted. Heat shrink tubing is minimally effective but the adhesive filled type used for buried connections works well. It's thicker and the adhesive seals. Heat shrink is often used at the base of a connector for stress relief on cables that get moved around. I will stack two or even three layers at stress points. It makes the cable stiffer and much more durable. This would be recommended if you were connecting a handheld radiio to a mast top antenna.
At the top end is LMR400 which sells around $1 a foot and is almost 1/2 inch in diameter ( .405) They make a more flexible version which is about 25% more in cost. Assuming a 50' run, your loss would be around .75-1dB total - which is very good.
RG213 is the same size and a little more flexible. Cost is about $0.90 a foot but total loss would be around 1.5-1.75dB which is still very good and indistinguishable (signal wise) from the LMR400 at this length.
LMR240 is a step down in size , around 1/4 inch diameter ( .240) and is yet a little lossier than the larger cables. It costs around $0.70 per foot and your total loss would be around 1.5-2 dB, still good. This cable is very flexible and small which could make a big difference when you are trying to route t he cable to the radio.
RG8X is often what is supplied with some marine antennas. It's lossier than the LMR240 and around the same size. Total loss in your case would be about 3dB, which is a little more significant ( 50%). Cost is pretty low at $0.30 a foot or even cheaper.
There's a trade-off of power/signal loss with various cables but the difference between some is mostly insignificant. I like the LMR240 cable myself. It's small enough to easily handle and the loss/cost is reasonable. Whatever you do, don't use RG58 on any runs over 10 feet or so.
Connectors are important as well. You can make basic PL-259's work on any of the above cables but will have to be fairly handy with a soldering iron to install. Crimp connectors are fine as long as they are properly installed but are made specifically for the type of cable.
Cable prep and proper connector installation is important. It doesn't matter if you buy the best cable available if the connectors are installed improperly. They aren't waterproof or even "weatherproof". You'll save yourself some future headaches if you seal the connector at the antenna during installation. Electrical tape is better than nothing but will only last about a year. Ideally, wrap in electrical tape, then butyl tape, then electrical tape. This makes an effective seal and is still the standard that professionals use. I have seen liquid tape used also but can't attest to how long it lasted. Heat shrink tubing is minimally effective but the adhesive filled type used for buried connections works well. It's thicker and the adhesive seals. Heat shrink is often used at the base of a connector for stress relief on cables that get moved around. I will stack two or even three layers at stress points. It makes the cable stiffer and much more durable. This would be recommended if you were connecting a handheld radiio to a mast top antenna.
radio cable installation
Thank you Forrest! This helps a lot and gives me options. I really appreciate the discussion. Peppercorn
Thank you Forrest! This helps a lot and gives me options. I really appreciate the discussion. Peppercorn
What bubblehead is right. Keep the cable as short as is practical. In other words, a few extra feet will not make a difference, but 20-30 extra feet coiled up will. You will find varying opinions on coaxial cable but for all practical purposes, you don't have to spend a small fortune on cable for good performance.
At the top end is LMR400 which sells around $1 a foot and is almost 1/2 inch in diameter ( .405) They make a more flexible version which is about 25% more in cost. Assuming a 50' run, your loss would be around .75-1dB total - which is very good.
RG213 is the same size and a little more flexible. Cost is about $0.90 a foot but total loss would be around 1.5-1.75dB which is still very good and indistinguishable (signal wise) from the LMR400 at this length.
LMR240 is a step down in size , around 1/4 inch diameter ( .240) and is yet a little lossier than the larger cables. It costs around $0.70 per foot and your total loss would be around 1.5-2 dB, still good. This cable is very flexible and small which could make a big difference when you are trying to route t he cable to the radio.
RG8X is often what is supplied with some marine antennas. It's lossier than the LMR240 and around the same size. Total loss in your case would be about 3dB, which is a little more significant ( 50%). Cost is pretty low at $0.30 a foot or even cheaper.
There's a trade-off of power/signal loss with various cables but the difference between some is mostly insignificant. I like the LMR240 cable myself. It's small enough to easily handle and the loss/cost is reasonable. Whatever you do, don't use RG58 on any runs over 10 feet or so.
Connectors are important as well. You can make basic PL-259's work on any of the above cables but will have to be fairly handy with a soldering iron to install. Crimp connectors are fine as long as they are properly installed but are made specifically for the type of cable.
Cable prep and proper connector installation is important. It doesn't matter if you buy the best cable available if the connectors are installed improperly. They aren't waterproof or even "weatherproof". You'll save yourself some future headaches if you seal the connector at the antenna during installation. Electrical tape is better than nothing but will only last about a year. Ideally, wrap in electrical tape, then butyl tape, then electrical tape. This makes an effective seal and is still the standard that professionals use. I have seen liquid tape used also but can't attest to how long it lasted. Heat shrink tubing is minimally effective but the adhesive filled type used for buried connections works well. It's thicker and the adhesive seals. Heat shrink is often used at the base of a connector for stress relief on cables that get moved around. I will stack two or even three layers at stress points. It makes the cable stiffer and much more durable. This would be recommended if you were connecting a handheld radiio to a mast top antenna.
radio cable installation
Thanks Bubblehead. I do have a standard rig and appreciate your help. I planning for 45 feet for good measure and am woundering how to snake it through the cabin ceiling when i get below decks. What do you think I should do?
Thanks Bubblehead. I do have a standard rig and appreciate your help. I planning for 45 feet for good measure and am woundering how to snake it through the cabin ceiling when i get below decks. What do you think I should do?
Well, assuming you are standard rig, you should have about 28 foot of mast, add 2 ft or so for error, and I would add another 15-20 ft to allow for concealment of wiring inside the cabin. I would rather have too much than not enough as wire isnt that costly
I would come down on the head side, and run my wire above the port side windows. There is a lip there (at least on my boat), that can not only conceal your wiring, but is also large enough for hidden rope lighting as well. You can make a couple light weight brackets, and fill in the gaps with good ole hot glue. Good luck
- Status
- Not open for further replies.