I have 1993 Hunter 28 that has 4 fixed portlights.They are made of Smoked Plexiglass and are Hectagonal.I need to replace one but I am a little confused about how they are installed and/or removed.I have read almost all the items in the forum archives but just about all of them are about portlights that have frames. Mine does not have any frames.They look like they are just beaded but the black stuff surrounding the plexiglass looks like rubber and not silicone.Does anyone know what mine are installed with and how I remove them?What do I rebed them with and how?I would greatly appreciate any input from anyone who has any experience with my syle of fixed portlights!!!! Thanks
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I had mine done last year
What a disaster. The guys that did it for me screwed it up pretty bad. Every single one of them leaked when they were finished. They came back and recaulked everything, but one of them still has a slight drip in a beating rain. Anyway, the caulk is a special product that Hunter recommends, so I bought four tubes with the idea that I would redo them myself. If you need to know the brand I can look at home for you. It's almost impossible not to break them when removing, so I've been holding off until I have some time on my hands. Upon reflection I think I would have been better off trying to polish the scratches out of the originals. Good luck.
What a disaster. The guys that did it for me screwed it up pretty bad. Every single one of them leaked when they were finished. They came back and recaulked everything, but one of them still has a slight drip in a beating rain. Anyway, the caulk is a special product that Hunter recommends, so I bought four tubes with the idea that I would redo them myself. If you need to know the brand I can look at home for you. It's almost impossible not to break them when removing, so I've been holding off until I have some time on my hands. Upon reflection I think I would have been better off trying to polish the scratches out of the originals. Good luck.
Geoff,Where did you get the Portlights?
Where did you get the portlights?If you would,I would appreciate the info on the caulk.Do you know if the portlights are just bedded with caulk?Is the some kind of adhesive you use besides the caulk? Thanks
Where did you get the portlights?If you would,I would appreciate the info on the caulk.Do you know if the portlights are just bedded with caulk?Is the some kind of adhesive you use besides the caulk? Thanks
I'll look at the tubes tonight
... to refresh my memory. I think it is a 3M product. The marina that did the work supplied the new plexiglas. If you are careful and can get them out more or less intact, you can use the old ones for templates to make the new ones. I can't remember the thickness, but you'll know once you get one of the old ones out. It is the adhesive characteristic of the caulk that holds the plastic in place. There are no mechanical fasteners. I watched them reset one of mine that popped loose after they had installed it. He marked the edge of the fiberglass opening on the inside of the plastic while it was temporarily in place. Then he taped up to that line to keep caulk off of the viewing part of the light. Then he took a rotary drill with a wire wheel on it and roughed up the part of the light that overlaps the fiberglass opening. He also masked off the fiberglass opening right up to the edge, inside and out, to minimize getting black caulk on the fiberglas. Then he ran a couple of beads of caulk around the opening then pressed the plexiglas into place. Then used some tape strips to hold it while the caulk cured. After the cauk is cured you can go back with a single edge razor blade and trim off the excess. The trick is getting the right amount of caulk. Too little and you have hoidays in it and the edges are uneven. That's what made mine leak, and caused the one to fall out. Too much and you'll have caulk all over the place, and it's a bugger to clean off. As I said earlier, good luck. I think I'm going to find a glazier to redo mine. I'm afraid I don't have the patience for it.
... to refresh my memory. I think it is a 3M product. The marina that did the work supplied the new plexiglas. If you are careful and can get them out more or less intact, you can use the old ones for templates to make the new ones. I can't remember the thickness, but you'll know once you get one of the old ones out. It is the adhesive characteristic of the caulk that holds the plastic in place. There are no mechanical fasteners. I watched them reset one of mine that popped loose after they had installed it. He marked the edge of the fiberglass opening on the inside of the plastic while it was temporarily in place. Then he taped up to that line to keep caulk off of the viewing part of the light. Then he took a rotary drill with a wire wheel on it and roughed up the part of the light that overlaps the fiberglass opening. He also masked off the fiberglass opening right up to the edge, inside and out, to minimize getting black caulk on the fiberglas. Then he ran a couple of beads of caulk around the opening then pressed the plexiglas into place. Then used some tape strips to hold it while the caulk cured. After the cauk is cured you can go back with a single edge razor blade and trim off the excess. The trick is getting the right amount of caulk. Too little and you have hoidays in it and the edges are uneven. That's what made mine leak, and caused the one to fall out. Too much and you'll have caulk all over the place, and it's a bugger to clean off. As I said earlier, good luck. I think I'm going to find a glazier to redo mine. I'm afraid I don't have the patience for it.
Okay, if you still want to undertake this job...
...the adhesive sealant is Dow Corning #739. Good luck, and let me know how things turn out.
...the adhesive sealant is Dow Corning #739. Good luck, and let me know how things turn out.
the window on a H-27 ... sorta the same
I've read your posts with interest because I've got the same issue with my '90 H-27 and the one starboard-side fixed sleeping berth window. Mine looks real funky, cloudy and scratched up. There ave been a number of posts about the Dow produtt for this which is important because it bonds to the plexi material in a way that regular caulks can't or don't. However, it's not easy to find in stores (West, I found, doesn't have it). In my boat the window is screwed in using special rubber-like inserts that provide a water-tight snug fit. It's been recomended that I simply use a wax/clearer and an electric buffer to buff out the scratches rather tnan get a new sheet. In fact, what's on the boat has a slight curvature to it that would be hard to duplicate with a plain sheet of plexi material.
I've read your posts with interest because I've got the same issue with my '90 H-27 and the one starboard-side fixed sleeping berth window. Mine looks real funky, cloudy and scratched up. There ave been a number of posts about the Dow produtt for this which is important because it bonds to the plexi material in a way that regular caulks can't or don't. However, it's not easy to find in stores (West, I found, doesn't have it). In my boat the window is screwed in using special rubber-like inserts that provide a water-tight snug fit. It's been recomended that I simply use a wax/clearer and an electric buffer to buff out the scratches rather tnan get a new sheet. In fact, what's on the boat has a slight curvature to it that would be hard to duplicate with a plain sheet of plexi material.
You might want to check with...
Greg Emerson in Tech Service at Huntermarine. I worked through Greg (getting part numbers), and Pompanette (who now owns Bomar and Gray), and, just today replaced the lense of my old Bomar hatch. Pompanette supplied the new hatch AND glazing compound to rebed the hatch (GE Silicone). A lot of people like to use 3M 4200, but you might want to check with the original manufacturer as to a recomendation on what to use. I'm guessing that Bomar or Gray made your portlights (just a guess though).
Greg Emerson in Tech Service at Huntermarine. I worked through Greg (getting part numbers), and Pompanette (who now owns Bomar and Gray), and, just today replaced the lense of my old Bomar hatch. Pompanette supplied the new hatch AND glazing compound to rebed the hatch (GE Silicone). A lot of people like to use 3M 4200, but you might want to check with the original manufacturer as to a recomendation on what to use. I'm guessing that Bomar or Gray made your portlights (just a guess though).
Unfortunately,they do....
Unfortunately,one was cracked and did leak all over my galley SO I got the portlight cut today locally,I got 2 tubes of 739,and tomorrow I will replace my fixed portlight.With much masking tape in hand,my caulk gun,some sandpaper,and a few beers,I will go for it.I will let you all know how it went.FYI The width of the plexiglass is 1/4" and it is a 2064 gray. Thanks for everyones help.
Unfortunately,one was cracked and did leak all over my galley SO I got the portlight cut today locally,I got 2 tubes of 739,and tomorrow I will replace my fixed portlight.With much masking tape in hand,my caulk gun,some sandpaper,and a few beers,I will go for it.I will let you all know how it went.FYI The width of the plexiglass is 1/4" and it is a 2064 gray. Thanks for everyones help.
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