I saw the pictures on line and read the articles over the past few years. Almost ready to dig in there on my '83 h34 and have a few questions. 1) I removed the teak trim around the door to the head and didn't find any wires. Are there any wires in the post? 2) I have slight evidence of previous leakage but no sag in the post or beam. I know the post is wood, what's inside the fiberglass beam? Since mine looks ok, can I fill it with epoxy or something before it settles and looks like the one in the picture? 3) Where is the antenna wire routed? Inside the top beam or up the compression post? 4) Anyone replace the compression post with the rig in place. Can I "sister" the exsisting post with a temporary one while replacing the original? 5) I have a Kenyon mast with the large black base. Is there a wiring tube or channel inside the mast? Thanks! Barry s/v "PER DIEM too"
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Havn't done mine, but...
From what I understand the original H34's with the larger mast base do not suffer as much from the compression post problem. I did re-calk the tube that runs thru the deck. Access it by removing the sheaves from on side at the base of the mast. I think that the wire runs down a groove on the rear side of the compression post, exiting behind the holding tank under the settee, but someone may correct me on this. Let us know what you discover during your replacment project. Scott 83-H34 Island Hops
From what I understand the original H34's with the larger mast base do not suffer as much from the compression post problem. I did re-calk the tube that runs thru the deck. Access it by removing the sheaves from on side at the base of the mast. I think that the wire runs down a groove on the rear side of the compression post, exiting behind the holding tank under the settee, but someone may correct me on this. Let us know what you discover during your replacment project. Scott 83-H34 Island Hops
My two cents
Barry, I repaired our '86 34 just after purchase two and half years ago. We have the smaller base, so my answers may not exactly pertain to your boat. 1. Yes, there are wires in the post. There is a tube (PVC) that extends past the cabin top (topside) down through the deck. The tube exits into the compression post. The antenna coax runs to port through the overhead 'beam'. The masthead, running, etc wires run down through the post and exit through a notch just below the starboard settee seat top. Ours also had a 110v lead from port to starboard running across the beam. 2. Inside the fiberglass 'beam' is a wood 'beam'. Mine was (and everyone I talked with) 'notched' out severely to facilitate for the PVC wiring tube. The 'beam' had about an inch overlap with the compression post. The remainder had been 'notched' away in a vee shape. For this reason, I felt most comfortable re-engineering the support beam. If yours has not settled at all, I might consider leaving it alone and keeping an eye on it. If you are like me, and are more conservative (and have to do everything right!) you may consider replacing the wood beam, or attacking the problem from the forward side of the beam with re-enforcement. I won't go into detail here…but feel free to E-mail me. 3. Answered in 1. 4. I wouldn't, but if you loosened the rig to decrease the pressure and sistered right next to the original and were careful enough around the wires (especially the coax)… on second thought, I wouldn't. Pulling the stick isn't that big of a deal. 5. Don't know, sorry Good luck! With an understanding of what you are trying to accomplish and a good plan, it can be a rewarding project. Jeff Escapade '86 34
Barry, I repaired our '86 34 just after purchase two and half years ago. We have the smaller base, so my answers may not exactly pertain to your boat. 1. Yes, there are wires in the post. There is a tube (PVC) that extends past the cabin top (topside) down through the deck. The tube exits into the compression post. The antenna coax runs to port through the overhead 'beam'. The masthead, running, etc wires run down through the post and exit through a notch just below the starboard settee seat top. Ours also had a 110v lead from port to starboard running across the beam. 2. Inside the fiberglass 'beam' is a wood 'beam'. Mine was (and everyone I talked with) 'notched' out severely to facilitate for the PVC wiring tube. The 'beam' had about an inch overlap with the compression post. The remainder had been 'notched' away in a vee shape. For this reason, I felt most comfortable re-engineering the support beam. If yours has not settled at all, I might consider leaving it alone and keeping an eye on it. If you are like me, and are more conservative (and have to do everything right!) you may consider replacing the wood beam, or attacking the problem from the forward side of the beam with re-enforcement. I won't go into detail here…but feel free to E-mail me. 3. Answered in 1. 4. I wouldn't, but if you loosened the rig to decrease the pressure and sistered right next to the original and were careful enough around the wires (especially the coax)… on second thought, I wouldn't. Pulling the stick isn't that big of a deal. 5. Don't know, sorry Good luck! With an understanding of what you are trying to accomplish and a good plan, it can be a rewarding project. Jeff Escapade '86 34
Question 5
Yes, there is a wire chase extruded into the mast section. It is rather small and is accessable only with the mast down. I do not believe that it is wise to attempt any repair of this nature with the mast up. In fact, if there is no sag, why are you considering doing anything? Unless you are planning a voyage to Australia, -30 days or so at sea- I do not think you will gain much from an expensive re-engineering of the compression post as a preventive measure. I suspect that if a failure is going to occur in this area it will show as sag long before there is really any danger of losing the rig. I've been keeping an eye on mine for 18 years, and it's still as new. Incidently, I recall that when we took delivery of our boat in 1983, one of the other new 34s had this compression post problem shortly after delivery. I think that each 34 is an individual, and not all will need to have this wood block replaced. Though it could be better, I do not think the design is necessarily at fault. The problems are caused by variable quality and type of wood used, the lack of protection for the wood (should have been saturated in epoxy - cost $3.00 per boat) and variable assembly detail on the production line. If the block is solid and the mast step never leaks, there is a high probability that there will be no problem. If the block is cracked, has knots, or rots, it may compress and the glass beam will sag. I may be wrong, but I have never heard of this defect causing a catastrophic failure. Then again, if you must tinker it would be very interesting if you could take photos for the photo forum. Since our boats are contemporaries, it would be interesting to see what you have.
Yes, there is a wire chase extruded into the mast section. It is rather small and is accessable only with the mast down. I do not believe that it is wise to attempt any repair of this nature with the mast up. In fact, if there is no sag, why are you considering doing anything? Unless you are planning a voyage to Australia, -30 days or so at sea- I do not think you will gain much from an expensive re-engineering of the compression post as a preventive measure. I suspect that if a failure is going to occur in this area it will show as sag long before there is really any danger of losing the rig. I've been keeping an eye on mine for 18 years, and it's still as new. Incidently, I recall that when we took delivery of our boat in 1983, one of the other new 34s had this compression post problem shortly after delivery. I think that each 34 is an individual, and not all will need to have this wood block replaced. Though it could be better, I do not think the design is necessarily at fault. The problems are caused by variable quality and type of wood used, the lack of protection for the wood (should have been saturated in epoxy - cost $3.00 per boat) and variable assembly detail on the production line. If the block is solid and the mast step never leaks, there is a high probability that there will be no problem. If the block is cracked, has knots, or rots, it may compress and the glass beam will sag. I may be wrong, but I have never heard of this defect causing a catastrophic failure. Then again, if you must tinker it would be very interesting if you could take photos for the photo forum. Since our boats are contemporaries, it would be interesting to see what you have.
Another 2 cents
I just completed my compression post repair last fall. The information given by the others is accurate for my 83 h34 so I would assume it to be correct for you as well. I would disagree with leaving the problem if there is any evidence of leakage. The risk of further wood rot in the cabin, musty/wet cushions, smelly bilge water, and the water that doesn't quite make it to the bilge, further rotting of the beam and the eventual discoloration/damage to the teak casing around the compression post, all would make me do it now before it gets worse. I found all of this once I really opened up the problem. I live in a wet climate and I prefer to keep the water on the outside of my boat. Good luck. If you have any questions regarding the work I did, email at langlink@uniserve.com Unfortunately I will be gone till the 22nd so I won't be able to reply right away. Eric Linklater "World's Away"
I just completed my compression post repair last fall. The information given by the others is accurate for my 83 h34 so I would assume it to be correct for you as well. I would disagree with leaving the problem if there is any evidence of leakage. The risk of further wood rot in the cabin, musty/wet cushions, smelly bilge water, and the water that doesn't quite make it to the bilge, further rotting of the beam and the eventual discoloration/damage to the teak casing around the compression post, all would make me do it now before it gets worse. I found all of this once I really opened up the problem. I live in a wet climate and I prefer to keep the water on the outside of my boat. Good luck. If you have any questions regarding the work I did, email at langlink@uniserve.com Unfortunately I will be gone till the 22nd so I won't be able to reply right away. Eric Linklater "World's Away"
If it ain't broke...
I also have the Kenyon mast and large black base. I agree that the problem is less common, and often less severe on these models. On my 1983 H34, recently purchased, there is no visible evidence of any compression. Several surveyors and experienced boat repair persons, said that if the compression post were damaged, there would be some visible evidence. Cracking in gelcoat, depression in cabin top around mast, swelling in crossmembers, etc. I have been advised, and am going to, keep a close I on it and perhaps take a more aggressive look the next time I remove the mast.
I also have the Kenyon mast and large black base. I agree that the problem is less common, and often less severe on these models. On my 1983 H34, recently purchased, there is no visible evidence of any compression. Several surveyors and experienced boat repair persons, said that if the compression post were damaged, there would be some visible evidence. Cracking in gelcoat, depression in cabin top around mast, swelling in crossmembers, etc. I have been advised, and am going to, keep a close I on it and perhaps take a more aggressive look the next time I remove the mast.
Identifying Compression Post Problem
I must disagree with the "If it ain't broke" philosopy regarding compression posts on H34's and 33.5's. I had my compression post replaced last spring on my 1988 H33.5 after I noticed discoloration of the teak encasing the wooden post and delamination of the teak and holley sole at the area surrounding the post. There was no evidence on deck with compression and gelcoat crazing. The only evidence noted was inside the cabin. I am sure the leakage and rotting of the wooden post had started months or probably a year or more before it was finally noticeable. Because the incidence of compression post failure is so prevalent in these boats, I would either remove the teak encasing the post for complete visual inspection or drill holes thru the teak casing into the post to determine the condition of the post. If the post checks out OK, I would remove the mast and reseal the wiring harness I know that this seems a bit much; however, the damage and resultant cost of repairs justify the cost of the inspection and preventive maintenace. I was lucky, even though the post completely disintegrated and literally rotted to a mush, the deck did not compress probablly due to loose rig tension and support from the teak casing inside the cabin. The upper and lower cross members were OK. The post was replaced with an aluminum post and some cosmetic work was done to refurbish the teak at a cost of appx. $1200. The problem can be much more severe and expensive if compression in the deck occurs and the cross members are damaged. Again, this problem is so frequent in these boats that preventive maintenace will probably eliminate a major problem down the line.
I must disagree with the "If it ain't broke" philosopy regarding compression posts on H34's and 33.5's. I had my compression post replaced last spring on my 1988 H33.5 after I noticed discoloration of the teak encasing the wooden post and delamination of the teak and holley sole at the area surrounding the post. There was no evidence on deck with compression and gelcoat crazing. The only evidence noted was inside the cabin. I am sure the leakage and rotting of the wooden post had started months or probably a year or more before it was finally noticeable. Because the incidence of compression post failure is so prevalent in these boats, I would either remove the teak encasing the post for complete visual inspection or drill holes thru the teak casing into the post to determine the condition of the post. If the post checks out OK, I would remove the mast and reseal the wiring harness I know that this seems a bit much; however, the damage and resultant cost of repairs justify the cost of the inspection and preventive maintenace. I was lucky, even though the post completely disintegrated and literally rotted to a mush, the deck did not compress probablly due to loose rig tension and support from the teak casing inside the cabin. The upper and lower cross members were OK. The post was replaced with an aluminum post and some cosmetic work was done to refurbish the teak at a cost of appx. $1200. The problem can be much more severe and expensive if compression in the deck occurs and the cross members are damaged. Again, this problem is so frequent in these boats that preventive maintenace will probably eliminate a major problem down the line.
Photo Forum
The best information on the 34 compression post problem is at the Photo Forum. It's close to the bottom of the page but it a good one. I don't have a problem with mine at the moment but it's worth looking at to get a good feel for what will have to be done.
The best information on the 34 compression post problem is at the Photo Forum. It's close to the bottom of the page but it a good one. I don't have a problem with mine at the moment but it's worth looking at to get a good feel for what will have to be done.
Checking the post
After much research and questions asked, I decided to take the mast down and inspect. I have just finished taking most of the screws out, but still have to drill out two. I your interested I have I have a digital camera and can send you step by step picutes of what it looks like and what I find. mpcsail@aol.com
After much research and questions asked, I decided to take the mast down and inspect. I have just finished taking most of the screws out, but still have to drill out two. I your interested I have I have a digital camera and can send you step by step picutes of what it looks like and what I find. mpcsail@aol.com
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