Is it true that if you replace your fuel filters that you must bleed your fuel system so there is no air in the system???...even if you fill your fuel filter when you reinstall? thanks Rob
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Check your manual....
Rob, Some diesels (like the Westebeke 30) auto bleed the fuel line. Check your model! -Elliot
Rob, Some diesels (like the Westebeke 30) auto bleed the fuel line. Check your model! -Elliot
Low pressure side only
When I changed my primary and secondary filters, I had to bleed the low pressure side. I accomplished this by filling both filters as much as possible, then I opened the bleeder screw on the filter that is mounted on the engine and used the lift pump to push the fuel through the lines. I didn't bleed the lines to the injectors and it started fine. Look on the Yanmar web site for additional information on bleeding the fuel system.
When I changed my primary and secondary filters, I had to bleed the low pressure side. I accomplished this by filling both filters as much as possible, then I opened the bleeder screw on the filter that is mounted on the engine and used the lift pump to push the fuel through the lines. I didn't bleed the lines to the injectors and it started fine. Look on the Yanmar web site for additional information on bleeding the fuel system.
Fuel`
Steve is right on, except my Yanmar book says to fill only the primary filter with fuel prior to putting it back on, and not the secondary filter. One suggestion, my Racor primary filter has a built in pump, do it first, then when you push on the fuel feed pump, be sure you push hard for the last 1/2"...that's when you are actually moving fuel.
Steve is right on, except my Yanmar book says to fill only the primary filter with fuel prior to putting it back on, and not the secondary filter. One suggestion, my Racor primary filter has a built in pump, do it first, then when you push on the fuel feed pump, be sure you push hard for the last 1/2"...that's when you are actually moving fuel.
No
If you fill the cannister, I suggest topping off with a West System syringe. That will fill it enough to avoid having to bleed. It works for me on my Yanmar 18.
If you fill the cannister, I suggest topping off with a West System syringe. That will fill it enough to avoid having to bleed. It works for me on my Yanmar 18.
Depends....
Totaly depends on the system and engine you have. You can minimize the bleeding by prefilling the filters but you'll most likely need to bleed some. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com Member A.B.Y.C.
Totaly depends on the system and engine you have. You can minimize the bleeding by prefilling the filters but you'll most likely need to bleed some. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com Member A.B.Y.C.
WD40 Start
Ive started all kinds of diesel motors on WD40 and in a few cranks they fire up and prime as they run with no bleeding.Ive never tryed it on my boat a C30 with mxp25.What do you think? John
Ive started all kinds of diesel motors on WD40 and in a few cranks they fire up and prime as they run with no bleeding.Ive never tryed it on my boat a C30 with mxp25.What do you think? John
I had t bleed
Busted my knuckles!!! I filled the filters with fuel and then started the engine and it ran OK at idle. Reved it up and it lost power and died. I did this a couple of times with the same result. Then I bled the system starting closest to the fuel tank. Hand pumped until only fuel with no bubbles came out of the vents. Then restarted the engine and it ran fine even at high RPMS. It would be "akward" to leave the slip and try reverse to avoid that $500,000 boat and have the engine die. Tom
Busted my knuckles!!! I filled the filters with fuel and then started the engine and it ran OK at idle. Reved it up and it lost power and died. I did this a couple of times with the same result. Then I bled the system starting closest to the fuel tank. Hand pumped until only fuel with no bubbles came out of the vents. Then restarted the engine and it ran fine even at high RPMS. It would be "akward" to leave the slip and try reverse to avoid that $500,000 boat and have the engine die. Tom
Thats what I thought.....
Thanks Guys....We have a Volvo D2-55 Its brand new well almost...2003 with under 50hours! So I havent bleed the lines yet...looking to do so in the spring......The owners manual stats change filters...fill bowl with fuel rescrew...go to the engine block...there is a little thumb pump on the fuel pump...pump manueally until fuel flows to that point...open the bleeder valve till puel comes out there....Try to crank.....if problems occur...THEN crack injector nuts and get the air out from there......Seams like they would devise a better system on a new engine......what am I talking about...its 2005 and we are still driving the same cumbustion engine as the Model T.
Thanks Guys....We have a Volvo D2-55 Its brand new well almost...2003 with under 50hours! So I havent bleed the lines yet...looking to do so in the spring......The owners manual stats change filters...fill bowl with fuel rescrew...go to the engine block...there is a little thumb pump on the fuel pump...pump manueally until fuel flows to that point...open the bleeder valve till puel comes out there....Try to crank.....if problems occur...THEN crack injector nuts and get the air out from there......Seams like they would devise a better system on a new engine......what am I talking about...its 2005 and we are still driving the same cumbustion engine as the Model T.
Bleeding
Every engine has different bleeding requirements. Our M25 is simple. With the electric fuel pump I never bother to fill the filters with fuel. Replace filters. Open bolt on secondary engine filter. Turn electrical fuel pump on by turning cockpit control panel switch to on. Wait until fuel comes out of bolt, and air stops. Close bolt. Done. The filter(s) gets filled by the electric fuel pump. Others may vary, like the M25XP that can be "continually" bled by opening the knurled knob. Check your manual. If you have an electric pump, you just don't need to fill the Racor filter, nor mess with it's "hand pump" which is a simple, but painful lesson in finger scrunching! Stu
Every engine has different bleeding requirements. Our M25 is simple. With the electric fuel pump I never bother to fill the filters with fuel. Replace filters. Open bolt on secondary engine filter. Turn electrical fuel pump on by turning cockpit control panel switch to on. Wait until fuel comes out of bolt, and air stops. Close bolt. Done. The filter(s) gets filled by the electric fuel pump. Others may vary, like the M25XP that can be "continually" bled by opening the knurled knob. Check your manual. If you have an electric pump, you just don't need to fill the Racor filter, nor mess with it's "hand pump" which is a simple, but painful lesson in finger scrunching! Stu
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