I installed a new, larger alternator today and had some problems. My engine (3GMF)and battery switch are located inside the cabin. Any help in diagnosing would be appreciated. I installed the new unit and attached the wires. I then turned on the battery switch. The oil pressure buzzer went off. The key WAS NOT in the ignition yet and the ignition switch was still in the off position. I pushed the starter button and the engine turned over without the key. The engine ran fine and the buzzer stopped right away. When I pulled the kill switch the engine stopped but the oil pressure buzzer would not turn off. It was as if the key was in the ignition slot and turned to the "on" position. I tried using the key to turn the inginition to the start position and back off again but the buzzer continued. So with the ingnition switch in the "off" position and no key the buzzer won't turn off. I never had this problem before putting on the new alternator today. Any ideas as to why this is occuring and how I can fix it? Thanks, Joe Mullee
Another Alternator Question
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L
Landsend
The alternator has three wires.....
Disconnect the wires one at a time and see what you wired incorrectly. It won't be the large red wire.
Disconnect the wires one at a time and see what you wired incorrectly. It won't be the large red wire.
J
James L
Had a similar problem
When connecting a new battery i connected it wrong way round (oops), which caused the battery to discharge through the alternator. The symptoms were very like the ones you have described so maybe you wired the alternator the wrong way round. If you see the altrnator tighten its belt when you switch on the battery you will know its acting like an electric motor. This happens when the rectifier plate is blown. It is reasonably cheap to get this fixed but if the alternator is left hooked to the batteries like this for more than a short time the whole thing can burn out. Hope this helps.
When connecting a new battery i connected it wrong way round (oops), which caused the battery to discharge through the alternator. The symptoms were very like the ones you have described so maybe you wired the alternator the wrong way round. If you see the altrnator tighten its belt when you switch on the battery you will know its acting like an electric motor. This happens when the rectifier plate is blown. It is reasonably cheap to get this fixed but if the alternator is left hooked to the batteries like this for more than a short time the whole thing can burn out. Hope this helps.
Landsend........
Thanks for trying to help me out here. I did review the wires. The red to the battery post I left alone. When I disconnected the second wire (right next to the battery post on the alternator) the buzzing continued. The "third" wire is actually a set of wires that fit into a male/female connector. When I disconnected this connector the buzzing stopped. Thoughts? Thanks again, Joe Mullee
Thanks for trying to help me out here. I did review the wires. The red to the battery post I left alone. When I disconnected the second wire (right next to the battery post on the alternator) the buzzing continued. The "third" wire is actually a set of wires that fit into a male/female connector. When I disconnected this connector the buzzing stopped. Thoughts? Thanks again, Joe Mullee
C
Capt J
Just a shot....
The two wires that you plugged in (male and female ) connector are the field and the stator which relate to the switch panel that you are having a problem with. I would contact the manufacturer and see which one is which to see if they have been reversed at the alternator. I had a similar problem with a larger alternator installation, but mine did not have an internal regulator. Had to fiddle with the two ( stator and field ) wires until I got them correct on the external regulator. Good luck.
The two wires that you plugged in (male and female ) connector are the field and the stator which relate to the switch panel that you are having a problem with. I would contact the manufacturer and see which one is which to see if they have been reversed at the alternator. I had a similar problem with a larger alternator installation, but mine did not have an internal regulator. Had to fiddle with the two ( stator and field ) wires until I got them correct on the external regulator. Good luck.
Reverse 'L' and 'R'
CaptJ is almost certainly correct. The two-wire connector on the Alternator will have two pins, at 90 degrees to each other. If an Internally Regulated Hitachi Alternator, one is the Red “B” wire & the other the Blue/Black “L” wire. The RED (might be Red/Black) “B” wire connects to Start Key Switch. The BLUE/BLACK “L” wire goes to the Charge Indicator Lamp, and etc at the Control Panel. There may be several factory harness connectors between the Alternator & Control Panel. Somewhere, you’ve got the “L” and “B” wires reversed. HTH, Gord
CaptJ is almost certainly correct. The two-wire connector on the Alternator will have two pins, at 90 degrees to each other. If an Internally Regulated Hitachi Alternator, one is the Red “B” wire & the other the Blue/Black “L” wire. The RED (might be Red/Black) “B” wire connects to Start Key Switch. The BLUE/BLACK “L” wire goes to the Charge Indicator Lamp, and etc at the Control Panel. There may be several factory harness connectors between the Alternator & Control Panel. Somewhere, you’ve got the “L” and “B” wires reversed. HTH, Gord
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