Annapolis – The Sailing Catastrophe of America

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Oct 9, 2008
1,739
Bristol 29.9 Dana Point
When I used to sail year-round out of Dana Point, California, I would exit the harbor, set the sails, and cruise into the steady wind across the Pacific, with my fingertips on the tiller and my feet on the cockpit combing. After awhile, I’d set the tiller pilot, grab a book, and sail off into the sunset. There was no fear of grounding, no ships running me down, no fishing boat skippers scowling at me, no idiots on PWC’s or jerks on powerboats plowing past too close, for no other reason than to be idiots and jerks.

Also, there was no fear of running out of ocean.

I would sail for houuurrs, totally relaxed, and marvel at my wonderful boat and her fast, easy sailing. The dolphins would come and say hello on most days, and ride the bow wave for all it was worth. Even the occasional whale would come to investigate, or they would be blowing nearby. The boat would ride the rolling swells, and track towards the horizon with no regrets. I would come in after dark, easily finding the harbor entrance, and docking in the well-lit harbor with it's floating docks.

This was how I fell in love with sailing.

That boat is gone, and I now live in Northern Virginia. I have a different boat, which is better in many ways and more challenging in others. I think she would be a much better boat, if she weren’t stuck trying to sail on Chesapeake Bay.

The boat is docked in Annapolis, which is deemed “The Sailing Capitol of America”. I guess most Americans have never sailed out of So Cal. I’ve been here 2 years, and have had about 7 good weekend sailing days, with good and consistent wind and reasonable weather. Also, we’re in a nice harbor with a dockside restaurant and bar, which makes for good non-sailing time.

Yet the overall sailing experience falls far short of “Capitol” status. I’ll make a list of stoppages:

The weather is either too damn hot or too feckin’ cold, or raining, or stormy, or worst of all; no wind. The boat sails well in light wind, but in the summer, there are times when there is no wind at all.

I don’t like the restriction of shallow water. Especially after I grounded the boat the 2nd time out :) She only draws 4.5, but I missed a bouy marker in unfamiliar territory, in an unfamiliar bay. It all looked like open water. This was my error, and could have and should have been avoided. However, the best way to avoid snakes is to stay out of the pit. I’ve since purchased the correct paper and GPS charts that show soundings and contours, and steer clear. I’ve also purchased towing insurance, because the Tow Boat US inflatable boat captain who spent 8 minutes getting me out of the mud robbed me of $650.

If the wind is out of the north or south (or variation), I can only sail for about 45 minutes before it’s time to turn around. Sometimes the wind is out of the east or west which is better. Sometimes it’s just plain shifty. I usually like to cruise on a close or beam reach, and follow the wind not the shoreline. I’ll do a close-hauled run if the wind is too light and boring, just to get her speed up and take her reins for awhile.

During the on season, there are 4 million boats out there. Many are fishing boats towing lines or strange boxes that are outboard about 30 yards in both directions. These fishing boat skippers sneer at you or even whistle or yell if they perceive they’re getting too close to you. I always try to give trollers some room if I can, but for them to demand it is rude. Remember, these are not trawlers, they’re trollers. They’re still powerboats with the ability to maneuver and stop, and must give way to a sailboat under sail in a crossing. I always give in if they don’t, because I don’t want the grief, or the lure in my rudder. Hopefully, there won’t be a day when I don’t have a path of wind and water for giving in.

On one occasion 2 weeks ago, a center-console boat roared past me about 20 yards to my port, as I sailed south. I was just sailing, and looking at a nearby lighthouse. Finally an enjoyable moment. Well, the drunk beers-in-hand occupants decided it would be good manners to flip me off and yell, “Fu$! you!” numerous times. The skipper also steered the boat nearer to mine. Then they sped off. I’ve never seen this type of behavior unprovoked, not since an encounter with insane gang members a couple of decades ago. I suddenly felt unsafe, not for the boat, other boats, weather, whatever. But for being attacked. I’ve never felt as though I were about to be boarded.

If it’s not the fishing boats that constantly need dodging, it’s the hideous danger of cargo and cruise ships, or tugs towing barges. Thankfully, I have AIS and have keened up my senses regarding. There are ships in So Cal too, but you can see them coming for an hour, and there’s a whole ocean to avoid them.

There are also usually about half a dozen giant ships anchored in the middle of the bay at Annapolis, which require altered courses.

Navigating in the dark or fog is dangerous, as even with GPS, finding the buoys lining the narrow dredged channel to the harbor entrance is nearly impossible without a spotlight. Bad weather makes accomplishing this task somewhat amazing. Therefore, I try to make the harbor before sunset.

Still, I would rather be sailing in bad weather, and avoiding boats, ships, shallow water, shorelines, and nasty people than doing anything else. I just never should have moved from the Pacific.
 
Jan 22, 2008
507
Catalina 310 278 Lyndeborough NH
Every location has different sailing conditions.
That is something you will need to adjust to.

Unfortunately, many places have inconsiderate people we need to deal with.
For that I don't have a good answer.
 
May 23, 2004
3,319
I'm in the market as were . Colonial Beach
You just totally missed the amazing cruising opportunities in the Chesapeake Bay. There are very unique places that you can't find anywhere else.

Try doing some cruises over to St. Michaels, Oxford, Smith, and Tangier Island.

The winds can be fluky, challenging, and sometimes not there. There are a lot of other boaters in the area. The trade of is having a lot of nice places to stop for the night. Small towns and cities that dot the coast. Thousands of nice anchorages. There are also a lot of good places to stop and get seafood.

Maybe you need to adapt your sailing to the area. The Chesapeake Bay is a wonderful place.
 
Aug 31, 2009
70
Hunter 36 Herrington Harbour North, MD
If you live in NVA, consider moving your boat a little south to Deale or some place other than Annapolis. That will take care of some of your issues. Fewer boats, no anchored tankers, cheaper, and faster to get to (no Rt 50 with bay bridge traffic!).
 

RECESS

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Dec 20, 2003
1,505
Pearson 323 . St. Mary's Georgia
We have an area of the panhandle of Florida called "The Forgotten Coast". Great wide open sailing. Great fishing. Not very expensive. I hope it stays forgotten long enough for my son to love it.
 
May 25, 2004
437
Catalina 400 mkII Harbor
only commercial fishing has right of way over you, not the charter boat captain thats trolling for a few hours for a $1000 for washington fat cats. if they are that much of jags, run over their lines!

i too learned to sail out of newport beach ca. i enjoyed the afternoon sails that always brought a brisk afternoon breeze!

mike
 
Jun 8, 2004
853
Pearson 26W Marblehead
disappointing conditions

The East Coast from the Chesapeake thru the coast of Maine is considered by many to have the best sailing conditions in the USA That is the reason its so crowded
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
There is about 8 thousand miles of tidal shore line on the Chesapeake Bay. If all you have done is sail back and forth you're are missing most of the interesting places. If you must have bigger waters then investigate Solomons. pick a good day and sail the 8 foot line up the Chester River and its many creeks. If you don't have a fish/depth finder you most certainly need one.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,903
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Skipper.. Think of all the good skills that you'll be learning ! You'll become a real sailor ! Obsession is right.. many really neat places to go around the bay and hardly any more than one day between ! Different sailing for sure but mighty fun still!
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,091
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
Dana Point sailing sounds pretty good. I take from your message that you really like sailing and don't need the destinations, sea food or commotion. Interesting post since you're getting to the reasons we go sailing. I hope you find a way to sail according to your tastes.
 

BillyK

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Jan 24, 2010
502
Catalina 310 Ocean City, NJ
frankly there are idiots wherever you go.. at least they seem to be wherever i go.. the Chesea, the Delaware, the West cost, the south east cost.. We are over populated with entitled a-holes with cars, boats, motorcycles. i get waked 2-5 times a year here near Atlantic City - Ocean City area.

how do i deal with it? avoid the peak times.. take a sail during a weekday evening. Weekends are just no go water days.. spend time at the dock enjoying the water, the people, and the wine..

If you cant avoid the weekends, you'll have to do some homework and find the places that the jackasses don't take the time to do the homework to learn about.. there are 100's of anchorages and back bays in the chesea that don't see a prop more than a few times a week.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
If you don't mind actually sailing your boat the Wye River is a beautiful destination as is Oxford and the Chrisfield area. But you can't set the sails and read a book . you can do that when you set the hook.
 

mr_f

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Sep 5, 2011
20
______ ___ Over yonder
I am thankful to have heard your perspective. I was recently in southern CA confronted with the possibility that my next job opportunity might be that way. As I looked out over the ocean, my first thought was: why are there so few sailboats in view?

I am all too aware of the windless days of summer in the Chesapeake. And the heat. And the annoyance of shallow water. (Although I can't say I have experienced much bitter cold.) But I am also spoiled by the endless quiet anchorages and interesting destinations. My assumption about the lack of sailboats visible off the CA coast was there just wasn't anywhere to go. I can see the appeal of the type of sailing you describe, but I can also see the absence of the type of cruising the bay offers.

I second the thought to move south towards Deale (or Galesville, or Friendship/Rosehaven/North Beach). Each is easier to reach from northern VA than Annapolis. Each is cheaper than Annapolis. Each has better access to more cruising grounds.

I like to visit Annapolis by boat. But I have also encountered greater crowds, and more rude boaters, there than anywhere else on the bay.
 
Oct 1, 2007
1,862
Boston Whaler Super Sport Pt. Judith
The East Coast from the Chesapeake thru the coast of Maine is considered by many to have the best sailing conditions in the USA That is the reason its so crowded
Actually most sailors will say that the best sailing is from Westerly RI to the coast of Maine due to the summer thermals providing the daily on shore breeze we all love. Further south the thermal disappears. In fact, some would say the best sailing is really from Westerly to Cape Ann, as the on shore thermal isn't really much along the NH-ME coast either.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,045
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
The sailing capital of the world is Newport Rhode Island. How any other place can make such a claim is absurd. That area has endless cruising destinations around the bay, out to the three big islands of Block, Marthas, and Nantucket, or the Elizabeth islands coming out of the cape. You get open ocean sailing or protected bay sailing all over the place, depending on what you want.
Only problem is the fog and the season is way too short.
 
Jan 22, 2008
319
Hunter 29.5 Gloucester, VA
Skipper if you are looking for perfect weather, steady winds and a place you can sail unmolested in deep water for hours on end the bay is not for you. We who learned to sail on the Chesapeake enjoy her as often as we can and love her for what she is. Perfect days are few, there are sweltering days in the summer with no wind where you can't get a sail to flutter other days being cold and wet with 20 knts. But there are days that hit are perfect and we take advantage of them. We do have to dodge jet skis, fishermen, crab traps and commercial traffic but there is nothing like being anchored out in a quiet creek at dawn with a cup of coffee and watching her wake up and come to life. As for the drunks, and dangerous boat drivers you can get their boat number or name and call the Coasties. Heard it done many times you don't have to take it. Hope you can find a niche here it is a great place to sail, if not you may need to move farther east to the ocean or back out west.
 
Mar 28, 2007
637
Oday 23 Anna Maria Isl.
sailing capital of the world?

Thankfully there is so much out there to see, I don't think I will ever be able to make an educated declaration of exactly where the "sailing capital of the world" is.
 
Aug 28, 2012
53
Wavelength 24 Columbia, SC
The East Coast from the Chesapeake thru the coast of Maine is considered by many to have the best sailing conditions in the USA That is the reason its so crowded
That stretch of coast is heavily populated. That is the reason there are crowds on land and water.
 
Oct 9, 2008
1,739
Bristol 29.9 Dana Point
Thank you all for your uplifting notes and fabulous ideas. It's true, I may have been missing the good parts due to mindset.

I don't want to miss the good parts. Thanks again.
 
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