How did you do on this month's anchoring quiz? Did you run the table and ace them all? Or were you shocked at how many you couldn't answer correctly? Are you now resolved to read, ask, or learn more about anchoring? Did all of the questions make sense to you, or are sure there's a different answer than the one provided? Share your experience here. To view the combined scores of all participants go to: http://www.sailboatowners.com/quiz/quizresults.tpl?fno=400 If you haven't taken the quiz yet paste the appropriate link into your browser: Catalina owners: http://www.sailboatowners.com/contest/index.tpl?fno=20 Hunter owners: http://www.sailboatowners.com/contest/index.tpl?fno=0 Beneteau owners: http://www.sailboatowners.com/contest/index.tpl?fno=40 Macgregor owners: http://www.sailboatowners.com/contest/index.tpl?fno=80 Owners of all other sailboats: http://www.sailboatowners.com/contest/index.tpl?fno=400
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Protest flag for question #4
I got all the answers right except #4. I carried all the weight of chain not to save some scope but to avoid chafe on the nylon rode. All chain rode in rocky bottom conditions gives you a better sense of security and a good nights sleep. The better holding is a plus. I did not reduce scope because I had all chain. I was in several situations I am thankful I had the maximum scope.
I got all the answers right except #4. I carried all the weight of chain not to save some scope but to avoid chafe on the nylon rode. All chain rode in rocky bottom conditions gives you a better sense of security and a good nights sleep. The better holding is a plus. I did not reduce scope because I had all chain. I was in several situations I am thankful I had the maximum scope.
John Rousmaniere's opinion...
..about the "best all-around anchor" in his book, "the Annapolis Book of Seamanship" only proves that he, like every other sailor walking the dock, has an opinion.
..about the "best all-around anchor" in his book, "the Annapolis Book of Seamanship" only proves that he, like every other sailor walking the dock, has an opinion.
Protest Flag on Question #9
I beg to firmly differ with Annapolis on the CQR plow anchor, which is a most overrated anchor, with its poor setting (it prefers to slide on its side on anything but soft ground) and relatively weak holding (unless twice the normal weight) except in mud, where it digs so deep that it may be hard to retrieve without a properly guyed buoy. Among the more "stable" all around "light" anchors without the dismal hinge, Bruce is much better setting but lacks holding power, and Delta or Spade (best), are far superior in setting and holding, per recent articles in Cruising World et al. from people who replaced their CQR by lighter Spade or equal Delta with much better results from tropics to arctic. Practical Sailor, and Spade research tests, have amply documented CQR amazing weaknesses.
I beg to firmly differ with Annapolis on the CQR plow anchor, which is a most overrated anchor, with its poor setting (it prefers to slide on its side on anything but soft ground) and relatively weak holding (unless twice the normal weight) except in mud, where it digs so deep that it may be hard to retrieve without a properly guyed buoy. Among the more "stable" all around "light" anchors without the dismal hinge, Bruce is much better setting but lacks holding power, and Delta or Spade (best), are far superior in setting and holding, per recent articles in Cruising World et al. from people who replaced their CQR by lighter Spade or equal Delta with much better results from tropics to arctic. Practical Sailor, and Spade research tests, have amply documented CQR amazing weaknesses.
Don't anchor near me!
... only got 4 right - could have done about as well leaving my responses to blind chance! So, it's back to the books for me - good thing I have a few months to study before I'll be out there terrorizing the nearby anchorages! ... my excuse: I got my first keel boat this summer, and have been in small racing dinghies until now - not a lot of anchoring involved with those puppies. This was a great quiz as it let me know how little I do know!
... only got 4 right - could have done about as well leaving my responses to blind chance! So, it's back to the books for me - good thing I have a few months to study before I'll be out there terrorizing the nearby anchorages! ... my excuse: I got my first keel boat this summer, and have been in small racing dinghies until now - not a lot of anchoring involved with those puppies. This was a great quiz as it let me know how little I do know!
Second protest flag on #4
If the data provided is correct, then the ASA-recommended scope on an all-chain rode is 3:1? Seems a bit short, although I can understand why. Hauling in the extra 100 ft of chain would be a real pain. I also missed the trick question with the wind that reversed direction during the night. Any shore that's close enough for you to run a stern line to a tree or rock, would be a lee shore. When the wind reverses direction, you would be so far up in the lee of the land that any waves from astern would be minimal. Very tricky, Gary! Peter H23 "Raven"
If the data provided is correct, then the ASA-recommended scope on an all-chain rode is 3:1? Seems a bit short, although I can understand why. Hauling in the extra 100 ft of chain would be a real pain. I also missed the trick question with the wind that reversed direction during the night. Any shore that's close enough for you to run a stern line to a tree or rock, would be a lee shore. When the wind reverses direction, you would be so far up in the lee of the land that any waves from astern would be minimal. Very tricky, Gary! Peter H23 "Raven"
Question of a question
The fifth question had as one of it's answers the lack of elasticity. This is not an issue with chain since it develops a significant catenary due to it's distributed weight. This catenary is chain's answer to elasticity and if you do the calculations of forces necessary to straighten the chain to where elasticity becomes essential, you will find that the chocks and cleats have been torn from the boat. All of this assumes that you have released enough chain to avoid an up and down situation.
The fifth question had as one of it's answers the lack of elasticity. This is not an issue with chain since it develops a significant catenary due to it's distributed weight. This catenary is chain's answer to elasticity and if you do the calculations of forces necessary to straighten the chain to where elasticity becomes essential, you will find that the chocks and cleats have been torn from the boat. All of this assumes that you have released enough chain to avoid an up and down situation.
not bad,,but better than this guy
Wow look at this snip!!!....I cant belive it look at the deck it looks like it just bounced off!
Wow look at this snip!!!....I cant belive it look at the deck it looks like it just bounced off!
Third protest #4
The correct scope for all-chain should be 4:1, not 3:1. Ruined my 100% streak for the last three quizzes.
The correct scope for all-chain should be 4:1, not 3:1. Ruined my 100% streak for the last three quizzes.
*pop Chafed at the bit
Shanked another one as it looks like my knowledge didn't hold. Probably should have plowed through more data instead of taking the easy rode. Next time, I'll raise the white sentinel and ask whoever comes in first. Or maybe take a superior college course at USTA, famous for its depth and scope.
Shanked another one as it looks like my knowledge didn't hold. Probably should have plowed through more data instead of taking the easy rode. Next time, I'll raise the white sentinel and ask whoever comes in first. Or maybe take a superior college course at USTA, famous for its depth and scope.
I do not agree with some answers
1. A properly set anchor has enough scope and has been hit by the load of either hard backdown or a downwind moor. I say this qualifies as an inclusive answer. 2. 70 feet is a good bet. If you are considering anchoring in 10 feet of water, there isn't likely more than 3 feet of freeboard. That still leaves a 5-1/3 scope. That will work adequately for most conditions. 9. On occasion, I have had a CQR not hold and traded of for a fisherman/yachtsman (we called it regular) anchor. I still carry one because I can count on it. It is hard to retrieve because of its shape. From a: Lifelong Waterman, Licensed Mariner and Congenital Sailor
1. A properly set anchor has enough scope and has been hit by the load of either hard backdown or a downwind moor. I say this qualifies as an inclusive answer. 2. 70 feet is a good bet. If you are considering anchoring in 10 feet of water, there isn't likely more than 3 feet of freeboard. That still leaves a 5-1/3 scope. That will work adequately for most conditions. 9. On occasion, I have had a CQR not hold and traded of for a fisherman/yachtsman (we called it regular) anchor. I still carry one because I can count on it. It is hard to retrieve because of its shape. From a: Lifelong Waterman, Licensed Mariner and Congenital Sailor
Comments on Questions and Answers
Anchors Aweigh! 1. According to Eric Hiscock the most common reason an anchor will drag is because scope was inadequate. With 1145 responses in, 80% of quiz takers answered this correctly. I guess you can argue that a properly set anchor should have enough scope. But usually setting an anchor refers to backing down on it to bury it in the bottom. Also a good thing to do. 2. In some situations only knowing the water depth will be ok. But to calculate the amount of rode required, you need to know the state of the tide, the amount of freeboard at the bow roller, and whether your depth sounder is adjusted per question 3. Only 38 % got this right. 3. Per the ASA take the depth sounder reading, add the amount of freeboard at the bow roller, add the amount your transducer is underwater unless your depth sounder compensates for this, and add the amount the tide will come up (establish your scope at a high-tide depth). Multiply all of that by seven and let out that much rode. 44% got this right. 4. Based on all of the protests on this one, I did a little more research. Basically it depends on which expert you read, and they are about evenly split between three and four as a scope for an all chain rode. Only 25% got this right, but in your hearts those of you who answered four will know you had a good answer too. 5. All of the given answers are problems with an all chain rode. 85% got this right. 6. The first boat in the anchorage sets the protocol. If you have some boats with only one anchor and some with two, the differing swing room requirements will create chaos if the wind shifts. It pays to look closely at the anchoring schemes of boaters in an anchorage before you drop yours. 52% got this correct. 7. No tricks here! If you are anchored in tidal waters and there's no wind, tidal currents are very likely to shift your boat's position 180 degrees. In many areas the relative heating and cooling rates of land and water create reversing on and offshore winds during night and day. How do you comepnsate for this in an anchorage? Any of the three answers will work to reduce swing room and keep your anchor from having to reset. Will you be held off a lee shore part of the time? Sure, but if the anchorage is almost landlocked you'll be anchored off a lee shore almost all of the time. No big problem. 58% got this right. 8. A sentinel or a kellet is a weight you lower down your anchor rode. It absorbs some of the pull your boat exerts when being blown at anchor, enabling the shank of the anchor to remain in the desirable horizontal position for holding purposes. It also can reduce swing room needs and help keep your rode from fouling on the keel. 57% got this right. 9. I figured this question would start an argument. Everybody likes his/her own anchor--at least until it drags one night. Rousmaniere chooses the plow anchor as the best all around. He comments that different anchors are optimized for different bottoms, the fisherman or yachtsmen for example being the best for a rocky bottom. The plow holds well in most conditions and it's weight enables it to bury in grass where lighter anchors might fail to bite. My CQR has worked well for me, but we almost always anchor in mud. Practical Sailor has run some excellent articles on the setting and holding capabilities of different anchor designs in different bottoms. They make for good reading. 44% agreed with Rousmaniere's opinion. 10. The best way to break out a stuck anchor is to go over the top of it and pull from the direction opposite to which it is set. Be careful not to foul your rode on the prop! 86% got this right. As always, we hope you had fun and maybe learned something. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Anchors Aweigh! 1. According to Eric Hiscock the most common reason an anchor will drag is because scope was inadequate. With 1145 responses in, 80% of quiz takers answered this correctly. I guess you can argue that a properly set anchor should have enough scope. But usually setting an anchor refers to backing down on it to bury it in the bottom. Also a good thing to do. 2. In some situations only knowing the water depth will be ok. But to calculate the amount of rode required, you need to know the state of the tide, the amount of freeboard at the bow roller, and whether your depth sounder is adjusted per question 3. Only 38 % got this right. 3. Per the ASA take the depth sounder reading, add the amount of freeboard at the bow roller, add the amount your transducer is underwater unless your depth sounder compensates for this, and add the amount the tide will come up (establish your scope at a high-tide depth). Multiply all of that by seven and let out that much rode. 44% got this right. 4. Based on all of the protests on this one, I did a little more research. Basically it depends on which expert you read, and they are about evenly split between three and four as a scope for an all chain rode. Only 25% got this right, but in your hearts those of you who answered four will know you had a good answer too. 5. All of the given answers are problems with an all chain rode. 85% got this right. 6. The first boat in the anchorage sets the protocol. If you have some boats with only one anchor and some with two, the differing swing room requirements will create chaos if the wind shifts. It pays to look closely at the anchoring schemes of boaters in an anchorage before you drop yours. 52% got this correct. 7. No tricks here! If you are anchored in tidal waters and there's no wind, tidal currents are very likely to shift your boat's position 180 degrees. In many areas the relative heating and cooling rates of land and water create reversing on and offshore winds during night and day. How do you comepnsate for this in an anchorage? Any of the three answers will work to reduce swing room and keep your anchor from having to reset. Will you be held off a lee shore part of the time? Sure, but if the anchorage is almost landlocked you'll be anchored off a lee shore almost all of the time. No big problem. 58% got this right. 8. A sentinel or a kellet is a weight you lower down your anchor rode. It absorbs some of the pull your boat exerts when being blown at anchor, enabling the shank of the anchor to remain in the desirable horizontal position for holding purposes. It also can reduce swing room needs and help keep your rode from fouling on the keel. 57% got this right. 9. I figured this question would start an argument. Everybody likes his/her own anchor--at least until it drags one night. Rousmaniere chooses the plow anchor as the best all around. He comments that different anchors are optimized for different bottoms, the fisherman or yachtsmen for example being the best for a rocky bottom. The plow holds well in most conditions and it's weight enables it to bury in grass where lighter anchors might fail to bite. My CQR has worked well for me, but we almost always anchor in mud. Practical Sailor has run some excellent articles on the setting and holding capabilities of different anchor designs in different bottoms. They make for good reading. 44% agreed with Rousmaniere's opinion. 10. The best way to break out a stuck anchor is to go over the top of it and pull from the direction opposite to which it is set. Be careful not to foul your rode on the prop! 86% got this right. As always, we hope you had fun and maybe learned something. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Thanks, Gary
I enjoy your quizzes immensely and I hope to see more. I know it takes time and effort to put them together, so I just wanted to express my appreciation. Thanks again. Peter H23 "Raven"
I enjoy your quizzes immensely and I hope to see more. I know it takes time and effort to put them together, so I just wanted to express my appreciation. Thanks again. Peter H23 "Raven"
I like these quizes, but....
I feel at a disadvantage when a question is worded- "According to (----) source,......." If I haven't read that particular source, I can only give my own answer. I would rather see questions whose answers are not attributed to one source but are widely accepted by many sources.
I feel at a disadvantage when a question is worded- "According to (----) source,......." If I haven't read that particular source, I can only give my own answer. I would rather see questions whose answers are not attributed to one source but are widely accepted by many sources.
Good suggestion, Rich
I always try to state a source for my questions and answers because I do not consider myself an expert and feel a strong sense of responsibility to only convey good information in these quizes. I also try to select sources who are "mainstream" in their viewpoints and try to corroborate their positions with backup sources. But I'll try to include references to more than one source in the future where possible. Thanks for the input. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
I always try to state a source for my questions and answers because I do not consider myself an expert and feel a strong sense of responsibility to only convey good information in these quizes. I also try to select sources who are "mainstream" in their viewpoints and try to corroborate their positions with backup sources. But I'll try to include references to more than one source in the future where possible. Thanks for the input. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Come on Gary
Stick to your method, it's working fine. If people are taking exception NOW when you use a single published, widely accepted source for each question, imagine what will happen when you start using general consensus or local practice as a guide. I see your quizzes as motivation to go read the references and learn more about the things I got wrong, but maybe that's just me.... Peter H23 "Raven"
Stick to your method, it's working fine. If people are taking exception NOW when you use a single published, widely accepted source for each question, imagine what will happen when you start using general consensus or local practice as a guide. I see your quizzes as motivation to go read the references and learn more about the things I got wrong, but maybe that's just me.... Peter H23 "Raven"
Your Doing Fine Gary
Most of this stuff can be different on each boat, each place, and even each time you do it. So except for regulations or government standards which may even have their own exceptions, it is not always an absolute. That is part of what makes boating a challenging and exciting adventure. All outings, even if it is the same trip you make every day it is different each time.
Most of this stuff can be different on each boat, each place, and even each time you do it. So except for regulations or government standards which may even have their own exceptions, it is not always an absolute. That is part of what makes boating a challenging and exciting adventure. All outings, even if it is the same trip you make every day it is different each time.
Peter is absolutely correct
I totally agree with Peter Suah. One accepted source is plenty. If you make this too difficult you won't want to do as many. I love your quizes and learn something everytime. I also appreciate the comments from people who disagree with the answer. I view this as additional information for me to consider and possibly research. Keep up the good work... Keep them coming, but make it easy on yourself Ward
I totally agree with Peter Suah. One accepted source is plenty. If you make this too difficult you won't want to do as many. I love your quizes and learn something everytime. I also appreciate the comments from people who disagree with the answer. I view this as additional information for me to consider and possibly research. Keep up the good work... Keep them coming, but make it easy on yourself Ward
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