I'm thinking about installing an anchor windlass in a H-376. The anchor well is fairly shallow with no obvious (to me) location for mounting it. The only flat location I see is at the front end of the well, just behind the bow anchor rollers, but its pretty small and I'm not sure what's beneath that spot or how solid it is. Does anyone on the list have a 376 with windlass, or a different boat with a similar well with one installed? (I'd guess the 37.5 or 380 might be similar, but don't know for sure.) Suggestions for brand/model as well as where & how to mount it would help. Thanks.
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I did it quite differently
I installed a manual windless in a 376 and used it several years and then decided to change to an electric windless. I mounted them so that the chain and rode stayed in the anchor well. I did not want a pipe thru the v and did not want dirt in the bilge. I epoxied in an oak board horizontally in the aft side of the well, mounted the windless on it and had the chain and rode (manual) and the chain (electric) go into the well in front of the windless. If you are interested in doing it this way, let me know. I'll take some pictures and give you the details. Allan
I installed a manual windless in a 376 and used it several years and then decided to change to an electric windless. I mounted them so that the chain and rode stayed in the anchor well. I did not want a pipe thru the v and did not want dirt in the bilge. I epoxied in an oak board horizontally in the aft side of the well, mounted the windless on it and had the chain and rode (manual) and the chain (electric) go into the well in front of the windless. If you are interested in doing it this way, let me know. I'll take some pictures and give you the details. Allan
I'd like to see pics
I would certainly like to see pics of your installation Mr. Frey. I also have an aversion to a pipe through the v-berth and dirt entering the bilge. Thanks!
I would certainly like to see pics of your installation Mr. Frey. I also have an aversion to a pipe through the v-berth and dirt entering the bilge. Thanks!
OEM Windlass on H376
I have the OEM windlass on my 1998 H376. There is a design flaw in the way the rode goes into the locker. I have switched to mostly chain which helps. Check the archives for other modifications the others have done. Bob
I have the OEM windlass on my 1998 H376. There is a design flaw in the way the rode goes into the locker. I have switched to mostly chain which helps. Check the archives for other modifications the others have done. Bob
Me too Allan
Allan please post the photos or email me at juetty@yahoo.com. I've been trying to solve this design flaw for years but always wondered if the drop was not enough into he well. I'd be thrilled to see your solution. Thanks!!
Allan please post the photos or email me at juetty@yahoo.com. I've been trying to solve this design flaw for years but always wondered if the drop was not enough into he well. I'd be thrilled to see your solution. Thanks!!
I'll take the pictures this weekend,...
write up an explanation and post it. I may have to go out of town for the week on Monday. If so, I'll try to post before I go. If that is not possible, I'll post when I get back. Allan
write up an explanation and post it. I may have to go out of town for the week on Monday. If so, I'll try to post before I go. If that is not possible, I'll post when I get back. Allan
What Brand of windlass Allan
Thanks Allan. What brand and model windlass have you used? I'm going up to the bost and will dream of a solution>
Thanks Allan. What brand and model windlass have you used? I'm going up to the bost and will dream of a solution>
I Would Like Photos Also
I have a 1998 376 and would like very much to install one on mine...if you have additional photos please send... Sandysea376@cox.net Larry Stewart "SandySea"
I have a 1998 376 and would like very much to install one on mine...if you have additional photos please send... Sandysea376@cox.net Larry Stewart "SandySea"
See the solution below from Scott (Archives)
I am planning on making this change. I just replaced my 25' chain with 150' + 150' 9/16 nylon. Nice to have the extra chain in the S.Cal crowded anchorages where I can get by wth shorter scope if needed. See below for Scott's (from San Diego) fix taking from Archives: Modify the Hawsepipe There are some posts in the archives about how to re-run the hawse pipe so that it will drop the rode into the center of the anchor locker instead of the "V" of the bow. This solves the problem. I simplified the install a bit by buying waste pipe (4" diameter) from Home Depot with two 30 degree pipe angles. Pull out the vertical board in the front of the v-berth and then fit the new hawsepipe in. You will have a vertical straight piece from the deck to the first angle piece, another straight piece heading aft through where the board was to the second angle resting on top of the anchor locker inspection hatch in the v-berth. Mark where the angle piece rests on the inspection/access hatch in the v-berth and cut a 4" hole there. Then insert one very short straight piece vertically in the 2nd angle through the new hole. This short vertical piece will go in the hole you just cut and hold the new hawsepipe in place without any glue, nails etc... You want it inserted into the inspection hatch, not glued, so you can still lift the hatch when all done. Not anchoring it to the hatch leaves enough room to pick up the hatch and slide it to the side when you need to reach into the anchor locker (not very often anymore). Finally the hard part. Cut the vertical board (plywood and white cover) from the front of the v-berth horizontally aligned with the center of the middle straight piece of pipe. Then cut out the two complex semi-circles (actually half ovals). Insert the wood above and below, add some teak trim over the cuts and you are done. The only significant change from the previous posts in the archives (with photos) is that instead of kerfing (sp?) a straight pipe to get it to bend at the right angles, I used the 30 degree angle pieces. 100' or more of chain is no longer an issue since it drops into the center of the anchor locker. I don't normally keep that much weight in the bow, but can when planning a trip where I know I will need it. The only caution left is to make sure the three strand doesn't bunch up going down the pipe because of curling in the line. I just pay attention to make sure it is falling free. A short tug from top side (6" or so) then let it fall again is enough to keep it going into the locker. All chain rode is heavy enough that there is no problem at all. Plait is another option that should work with no real issue, since it won't be stiff like the 3-strand. The solution is actually very cheap. A few bucks for the teak trim/moulding wood and a few dollars for the black plastic pipe. It does protrude a bit into the middle of the v-berth, but no significant impact on the sleeping comfort. The whole project took about 8 hours, since I was learning and designing as I went. || || || || Enjoy, Scott
I am planning on making this change. I just replaced my 25' chain with 150' + 150' 9/16 nylon. Nice to have the extra chain in the S.Cal crowded anchorages where I can get by wth shorter scope if needed. See below for Scott's (from San Diego) fix taking from Archives: Modify the Hawsepipe There are some posts in the archives about how to re-run the hawse pipe so that it will drop the rode into the center of the anchor locker instead of the "V" of the bow. This solves the problem. I simplified the install a bit by buying waste pipe (4" diameter) from Home Depot with two 30 degree pipe angles. Pull out the vertical board in the front of the v-berth and then fit the new hawsepipe in. You will have a vertical straight piece from the deck to the first angle piece, another straight piece heading aft through where the board was to the second angle resting on top of the anchor locker inspection hatch in the v-berth. Mark where the angle piece rests on the inspection/access hatch in the v-berth and cut a 4" hole there. Then insert one very short straight piece vertically in the 2nd angle through the new hole. This short vertical piece will go in the hole you just cut and hold the new hawsepipe in place without any glue, nails etc... You want it inserted into the inspection hatch, not glued, so you can still lift the hatch when all done. Not anchoring it to the hatch leaves enough room to pick up the hatch and slide it to the side when you need to reach into the anchor locker (not very often anymore). Finally the hard part. Cut the vertical board (plywood and white cover) from the front of the v-berth horizontally aligned with the center of the middle straight piece of pipe. Then cut out the two complex semi-circles (actually half ovals). Insert the wood above and below, add some teak trim over the cuts and you are done. The only significant change from the previous posts in the archives (with photos) is that instead of kerfing (sp?) a straight pipe to get it to bend at the right angles, I used the 30 degree angle pieces. 100' or more of chain is no longer an issue since it drops into the center of the anchor locker. I don't normally keep that much weight in the bow, but can when planning a trip where I know I will need it. The only caution left is to make sure the three strand doesn't bunch up going down the pipe because of curling in the line. I just pay attention to make sure it is falling free. A short tug from top side (6" or so) then let it fall again is enough to keep it going into the locker. All chain rode is heavy enough that there is no problem at all. Plait is another option that should work with no real issue, since it won't be stiff like the 3-strand. The solution is actually very cheap. A few bucks for the teak trim/moulding wood and a few dollars for the black plastic pipe. It does protrude a bit into the middle of the v-berth, but no significant impact on the sleeping comfort. The whole project took about 8 hours, since I was learning and designing as I went. || || || || Enjoy, Scott
Use the genoa winch and rail to raise an anchor?
I have a 1990 35.5 (that is getting repowered currently, so I have lots of time to think about projects). I don't have an anchor windlass and, as I ponder the options for installing an electric windlass in the bow, I wonder why I can't use the 40:1 winches in back with a block attached to the genoa track to raise the rope rode? I would have to manually haul up 50' of chain but this would still be easier than the completely manual process I am following now. Also, has anyone installed an electric windlass in the anchor well itself on a 35.5?
I have a 1990 35.5 (that is getting repowered currently, so I have lots of time to think about projects). I don't have an anchor windlass and, as I ponder the options for installing an electric windlass in the bow, I wonder why I can't use the 40:1 winches in back with a block attached to the genoa track to raise the rope rode? I would have to manually haul up 50' of chain but this would still be easier than the completely manual process I am following now. Also, has anyone installed an electric windlass in the anchor well itself on a 35.5?
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