Iwould like to add an Anchorman manual windlass (vertical axis). The shelf in the anchor locker is too low and the space a bit too restricted to swing a winch handle; and the foredeck aft of the locker is too short to clear a handle without hitting the coach roof. Anyone done this installation on a 310??
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Same problem on a 340...
I was all set to order an Anchorman manual windlass to put on my 340 but at the last minute I noticed the same thing you did on your 310. There isn't room to swing a winch handle (not even an 8 inch handle) in the anchor well. There is an electric version of the Anchorman that might fit without the swinging room issue...
I was all set to order an Anchorman manual windlass to put on my 340 but at the last minute I noticed the same thing you did on your 310. There isn't room to swing a winch handle (not even an 8 inch handle) in the anchor well. There is an electric version of the Anchorman that might fit without the swinging room issue...
The wiring is the easy part...
I'm no fan of manual windlasses... They're just as expensive as a power windlass and they're slower than hand-over-hand. The hard part of any windlass installation is placing and attaching the windlass, and obtaining a proper fall for the rode. Running a couple of cables forward is nothing compared to that. I suppose they have some "never fail" characteristics in their favor, and we probably could all use the exercise. But I prefer the ease and speed of power units. You never hesitate to move if you don't like your situation, and when you have to move in crummy conditions, it's over quickly! Just my opinion, Paul
I'm no fan of manual windlasses... They're just as expensive as a power windlass and they're slower than hand-over-hand. The hard part of any windlass installation is placing and attaching the windlass, and obtaining a proper fall for the rode. Running a couple of cables forward is nothing compared to that. I suppose they have some "never fail" characteristics in their favor, and we probably could all use the exercise. But I prefer the ease and speed of power units. You never hesitate to move if you don't like your situation, and when you have to move in crummy conditions, it's over quickly! Just my opinion, Paul
Manual Anchorman worked fine for us
We used a manual Anchorman for several years on our 37. Much cheaper and easier to install than electric. We mounted it on the deck behind the anchor well. Pulled a 45# CQR and all chain rode nicely. My present boat has electric which is a little less work, but doesn't work any faster. Bill
We used a manual Anchorman for several years on our 37. Much cheaper and easier to install than electric. We mounted it on the deck behind the anchor well. Pulled a 45# CQR and all chain rode nicely. My present boat has electric which is a little less work, but doesn't work any faster. Bill
Attachments
Manual vs Electric
The Anchorman is $759 at West Marine, right now. I paid $800 for a new gypsy-drum Lofrans on Ebay, including the switches and control box. I can raise my anchor in about 30 seconds. You're saying, Bill, that you can crank in 70 feet of chain in the same time by hand? Plus, now my wife can haul me up the mast with the press of a button. Paul
The Anchorman is $759 at West Marine, right now. I paid $800 for a new gypsy-drum Lofrans on Ebay, including the switches and control box. I can raise my anchor in about 30 seconds. You're saying, Bill, that you can crank in 70 feet of chain in the same time by hand? Plus, now my wife can haul me up the mast with the press of a button. Paul
Bill, I have a question!
Bill, Thanks for the photo of your windlass. How do you get the chain/line to drop in your anchor locker? I have a H34 and have the same windlass to install so am looking for ideas. Thanks for any help. Bob
Bill, Thanks for the photo of your windlass. How do you get the chain/line to drop in your anchor locker? I have a H34 and have the same windlass to install so am looking for ideas. Thanks for any help. Bob
Flaking the Chain
Bob, When retreiving the anchor, I would open the anchor locker and set with my feet in the locker. Every 2 or 3 of turns of the winch I would flake the chain into the locker. Paul, 70 Feet in 30 seconds. I probably made that much speed if the boat was in gear and moving toward the anchor. My present electric windlass also has to have very little load on it while retreiving or it will trip a breaker. The manual windlass was installed before ebay, but back when Defender Marine was cheap. I wanted to go electric, but the cost and problems of running heavy cables to the bow and the $500 or so extra, kept it simple. My first windlass had the rope capstan. The gypsy was damaged in a heavy storm. The cost of a new gypsy was within $50 of a new winch. I replaced with a new one that didn't have the rope capstan which was never used. Bill
Bob, When retreiving the anchor, I would open the anchor locker and set with my feet in the locker. Every 2 or 3 of turns of the winch I would flake the chain into the locker. Paul, 70 Feet in 30 seconds. I probably made that much speed if the boat was in gear and moving toward the anchor. My present electric windlass also has to have very little load on it while retreiving or it will trip a breaker. The manual windlass was installed before ebay, but back when Defender Marine was cheap. I wanted to go electric, but the cost and problems of running heavy cables to the bow and the $500 or so extra, kept it simple. My first windlass had the rope capstan. The gypsy was damaged in a heavy storm. The cost of a new gypsy was within $50 of a new winch. I replaced with a new one that didn't have the rope capstan which was never used. Bill
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