we have a 2000 hunter 450 passage and are recently experiencing a problem with our windlass. the circuit breaker pops every two or three feet whether we are lowering or raising the anchor. I have taken the covers off and checked the brushes and the gears seem to be in good shape and well lubricated it seems to be working under a heavier load than normal and not turning as good as it was although there is nothing changed from when it was working well. any thoughts about what could be the issue would be greatly appreciated.
anchor windlass causing breaker to pop
- Thread starter karenhodgson
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High resistance connection could cause it. Just looking at all connections won't reveal a bad one - disconnect every connection in the run, clean and reconnect. If that doesn't solve the problem. replace the breaker, they can and do go bad.
My thoughts are if an electrical connection is "bad" it would have a high resistance and result in less current flow. An electrical connection would have to be conductive between the + & - to draw more current and cause the breaker to trip. So I would look for anything that could cause current to flow between the connections. If you an see the wires be sure they have not rubbed against something to cut the insulation and have an intermittent short. Also if you an see how much current the windlass is drawing while you run it that would tell you if there is a bad breaker or wiring/windlass problem.
From what you said I have the impression you feel the windlass mechanics are harder to move than before ? Have you tried running without the chain or gypsy on it ? Can you try to see if any of the bearings are seized ? I don't know about the construction of your windlass but could you remove the electric motor and try running that without the gear box ? The idea is to try and isolate the problem to one component.
The best solution will be if someone with experience on here can tell you what problems they have had with this particular model of windlass. Perhaps if you indicate the make and model and also post on the "ask all sailors" forum you may find someone with this same windlass that has solved a similar problem.
good luck, Bob
From what you said I have the impression you feel the windlass mechanics are harder to move than before ? Have you tried running without the chain or gypsy on it ? Can you try to see if any of the bearings are seized ? I don't know about the construction of your windlass but could you remove the electric motor and try running that without the gear box ? The idea is to try and isolate the problem to one component.
The best solution will be if someone with experience on here can tell you what problems they have had with this particular model of windlass. Perhaps if you indicate the make and model and also post on the "ask all sailors" forum you may find someone with this same windlass that has solved a similar problem.
good luck, Bob
If it is tripping going down I doubt it is an electrical problem (unless the windlass has a short in it). I bet it is a mechanical issue. My bet is you need to take the windlass apart and clean and lube it (try running with the gypsy off and not chain).
I had a very similar problem with my 1999 H410. I went through the whole system repaced the breaker, and it was still tripping when in use. Ended up replacing the windless motor and all was well. Easy enough to replace as boat fixes go, the new motor cost half a boat dollar, but much less than an entirely new windless.
I would first eliminate the circuit breaker as the problem. Measure the current entering the breaker to see that it is actually exceeding the amp. rating of the breaker. A clamp on meter such as this one: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482369000P. will do the job.
You have a shorted coil on the windlass motor. A high resistance (corroded) connection will pass less current and so the CB will not pop. The motor will not operate at full speed though. I=V/R --> R goes up I goes down.
Take the unit apart and measure each of the coils for both a circuit to ground and short to another coil. This is complicated as you are going to be measuring across the commutator (the thing the brushes rub on). Of you put your probe on one of the commutator lands (that is what I call them) there should be only one other land that makes a low resistance connection with it. Look at the configuration of the brushes. They are 180 degrees apart and the lands that should be connected are also 180 degrees apart. If you find a "dead set or a circuit between two lands that are not 180 degrees apart (shorted to another coil) or a land that is shorted to ground then the rotor needs to be rewound. That is probably outside of most persons skill set so just call the motor dead and replace it.
It could also be that the commutator is just dirty and just needs cleaned (use emery cloth) or there is an intermittent short in the wiring.
Take the unit apart and measure each of the coils for both a circuit to ground and short to another coil. This is complicated as you are going to be measuring across the commutator (the thing the brushes rub on). Of you put your probe on one of the commutator lands (that is what I call them) there should be only one other land that makes a low resistance connection with it. Look at the configuration of the brushes. They are 180 degrees apart and the lands that should be connected are also 180 degrees apart. If you find a "dead set or a circuit between two lands that are not 180 degrees apart (shorted to another coil) or a land that is shorted to ground then the rotor needs to be rewound. That is probably outside of most persons skill set so just call the motor dead and replace it.
It could also be that the commutator is just dirty and just needs cleaned (use emery cloth) or there is an intermittent short in the wiring.
Thank you all for your imput I have taken windlass apart it is a simpson Lawrence horizon 1500 and mechanics were fine tested the motor but motor still tripped looks like one part of the windings are shorting so motor will need replacing. Does anyone have an idea where I would get one and is there a better one to replace it. Have also thought about repacing the whole windless is there any suggestions as to what would be a good fit. the gypsy centre plastic piece is worn and also the bolt which supports this piece broke during dissassembly. I made it work by drilling and tapping the bolt but this is a temporary fix as we are in the North Channell in the great lakes and there are few places to get parts or even find a windlass dealer. Also internet is sparse up here.
Check the main bearing. If it is sound you should be able to turn the shaft by hand. If the bearing is going bad, you can get a replacement from John McMaster in Scotland. His company is SLspares and caries virtually all Simpson Lawrence parts. His e-mail is sl.spares@btconnect.com.
He can also advise you on a fix.
He can also advise you on a fix.
Hi,
In the past i have also have this issue with Lewmar windlass's, turned out that there was a 'funny batch' of central shafts and that they were prone to coming out of true - i.e. bending! This would come to light if under heavy load trying to lift the anchor...when you have apart just check that it is all ok.
Also, as suggested just make sure that the bearings etc are nicely free and greased - as they say if you can turn and rotate nicely by hand then all should be good under power.
Hope it helps!
In the past i have also have this issue with Lewmar windlass's, turned out that there was a 'funny batch' of central shafts and that they were prone to coming out of true - i.e. bending! This would come to light if under heavy load trying to lift the anchor...when you have apart just check that it is all ok.
Also, as suggested just make sure that the bearings etc are nicely free and greased - as they say if you can turn and rotate nicely by hand then all should be good under power.
Hope it helps!
You can contact Simpson Lawrence directly that's what I did. Big help. Of course mine was still under warranty. They tried 3 rebuilds that failed every time same issues. Either motor would fail or gear box jamming....Would work once or twice then die. They finally upgraded unit to a heavier motor and gear box + heavier reversing contact switch. Problem solved. The guy they put in charge of helping me was very determined. And went the extra mile.
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