I have '85 36 -- the anchor well hatch doors do not stay up and in big weather can be quite a pain to let out or in the anchor. Any suggestions on remeding this problem?
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On newer boats, Catalina added a "u-shaped" bracket attached to the inside of the hatch (many hatches on the boat) with a short vinyl-coated lanyard and hook attached to it. When open, the hook on the lanyard can be clipped to a lifeline or other suitable attach point, effectively holding the hatch in the open position.
As a retrofit, I suppose that attaching a small wooden flat block to the inside of your hatch, using the dreaded 5200 or other strong adhesive, would give you something to attach the U-shaped fitting to the inside of the hatch without having to worry about blowing a screw through the material, or having the screws not take a bite in the fiberglass.
Wouldn't have to be wire lanyards either, could be light rope.
Good Luck!
Tim Brogan
April IV C350 #68
Seattle
As a retrofit, I suppose that attaching a small wooden flat block to the inside of your hatch, using the dreaded 5200 or other strong adhesive, would give you something to attach the U-shaped fitting to the inside of the hatch without having to worry about blowing a screw through the material, or having the screws not take a bite in the fiberglass.
Wouldn't have to be wire lanyards either, could be light rope.
Good Luck!
Tim Brogan
April IV C350 #68
Seattle
Keep it simple
We have the same doors.
One side is kept up by tucking it under the roller furling line.
The other side has a short bungee cord with plastic hooks at each end: one goes on the small welded attachment loop for the upper lifelines on the pulpit and the other end grabs the anchor locker door in the up position. Those bungee cords were left by the PO and were and still are a great inexpensive idea.
Requires absolutely NO installation of anything!
If you can't or don't want to use the furling line, use two bungee cords and hooks. The plastic hooks never scratch anything, but regular metal bungee hooks would work just as well.
We have the same doors.
One side is kept up by tucking it under the roller furling line.
The other side has a short bungee cord with plastic hooks at each end: one goes on the small welded attachment loop for the upper lifelines on the pulpit and the other end grabs the anchor locker door in the up position. Those bungee cords were left by the PO and were and still are a great inexpensive idea.
Requires absolutely NO installation of anything!
If you can't or don't want to use the furling line, use two bungee cords and hooks. The plastic hooks never scratch anything, but regular metal bungee hooks would work just as well.
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