Have a 2000 Passage 420 that I would like to install an anchor washdown system on. Would like to known if anyone has done it and how or if not, but have one how is it installed. Where is the pump located and what source is used for the water, do I need another through hull. Would prefer not to have to put another one in
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Peggie Hall/Headmistress
Better to use fresh water
The same dead and decaying sea water critters that make a head intake stink also can make a chain locker stink. A friend did it on his IP 38 by simply teeing into his freshwater plumbing as far forward as possible and running a line to the chain locker that ended in a plain 'ol faucet. Kept a garden hose with a sprayer nozzle connected to it, coiled up out of the way. When he wanted to use it, he just turned on the faucet in the locker and sprayed down the rode as the winch brought it up.
The same dead and decaying sea water critters that make a head intake stink also can make a chain locker stink. A friend did it on his IP 38 by simply teeing into his freshwater plumbing as far forward as possible and running a line to the chain locker that ended in a plain 'ol faucet. Kept a garden hose with a sprayer nozzle connected to it, coiled up out of the way. When he wanted to use it, he just turned on the faucet in the locker and sprayed down the rode as the winch brought it up.
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Peter Roach
Agree with Steve
Use the head intake. If you use a sink drain you can pull enough water through your pump to pull air back through the line. The head intake is very easy to put a T in the line. If possible you want to do this above the water line (just in case). Also, put a shut off valve in line with the head (after the T) and another one in line with the water pump (after the T) that way you can work on either system without shutting the other off (especially important with the head). I mounted a faucet in the anchor locker and have one of those curley hoses. It works for cleaning the decks, washing the anchors, and most important during water gun fights (get a really big pump). ;-)
Use the head intake. If you use a sink drain you can pull enough water through your pump to pull air back through the line. The head intake is very easy to put a T in the line. If possible you want to do this above the water line (just in case). Also, put a shut off valve in line with the head (after the T) and another one in line with the water pump (after the T) that way you can work on either system without shutting the other off (especially important with the head). I mounted a faucet in the anchor locker and have one of those curley hoses. It works for cleaning the decks, washing the anchors, and most important during water gun fights (get a really big pump). ;-)
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Peter Roach
One other thing
If you T off of the head - make sure you turn off the pump when you leave the boat. If something broke you would be pumping your baot full of water.
If you T off of the head - make sure you turn off the pump when you leave the boat. If something broke you would be pumping your baot full of water.
of course....
Peter: of course, you do not need to worry about that if you are closing ALL your thru hulls every time you leave the boat! I think that it is a good idea to put a ball valve in the line above the 'Tee'. When you turn off the pump, shut down the valve.
Peter: of course, you do not need to worry about that if you are closing ALL your thru hulls every time you leave the boat! I think that it is a good idea to put a ball valve in the line above the 'Tee'. When you turn off the pump, shut down the valve.
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Buck Harrison
Mike,
I have a 2001 420.... Had the service guys at Norton's install a deck/anchor washdown pump for me when I bought the boat. It's an easy installation: The (Groco) Pump is mounted on the bulkhead (in the locker under fwd bunk) opposite the massarator pump. Because of the substantial volumn of water the pump delivers they advised (and installed) a separate, dedicated thru hull (located next to massarator thru-hull).... Power was teeded from wiring for anchor windless, and on/off switch was installed in fwd head above and to the right of mirror cabinet.. Output hose was run from pump thru space adjacent to anchor windless wiring to area behind anchor locker just below windless 'up/down' switches, where a hole was drilled, and hose fitting and on/off valve installed. I use an 8' length of garden hose (w/ nozzle)attached to the valve. Works great... delivers excellent pressure thru the nozzle to wash chain, anchor, etc. (Outranges most watergun opponents.... .) In my opinion, the volumns of water used to wash anchor, chain, bow pulpit, etc. would make fresh water wash-down impractical... Also, since there is a drain at the bottom of the anchor locker, I have had no odor problem; but then, I do not use nylon rode, I use a 250' 5/16" all chain rode; and put a plywood 'false floor' (w/ holes in it), in the anchor locker, to keep the chain from lying all the way down in the (dirty) bottom of the locker. If you plan to anchor even occasionally it makes the entire experience much nicer
I have a 2001 420.... Had the service guys at Norton's install a deck/anchor washdown pump for me when I bought the boat. It's an easy installation: The (Groco) Pump is mounted on the bulkhead (in the locker under fwd bunk) opposite the massarator pump. Because of the substantial volumn of water the pump delivers they advised (and installed) a separate, dedicated thru hull (located next to massarator thru-hull).... Power was teeded from wiring for anchor windless, and on/off switch was installed in fwd head above and to the right of mirror cabinet.. Output hose was run from pump thru space adjacent to anchor windless wiring to area behind anchor locker just below windless 'up/down' switches, where a hole was drilled, and hose fitting and on/off valve installed. I use an 8' length of garden hose (w/ nozzle)attached to the valve. Works great... delivers excellent pressure thru the nozzle to wash chain, anchor, etc. (Outranges most watergun opponents.... .) In my opinion, the volumns of water used to wash anchor, chain, bow pulpit, etc. would make fresh water wash-down impractical... Also, since there is a drain at the bottom of the anchor locker, I have had no odor problem; but then, I do not use nylon rode, I use a 250' 5/16" all chain rode; and put a plywood 'false floor' (w/ holes in it), in the anchor locker, to keep the chain from lying all the way down in the (dirty) bottom of the locker. If you plan to anchor even occasionally it makes the entire experience much nicer
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Brett
Portable Washdown
On our H30, I installed the washdown pump as a portable model. I put a twelve connector on the side of the coaming forward of the cockpit. Wired the pump with the male connector, added a length of hose with a bronze strainer to it and fitted with a hose coil. To use I just lower the supply hose over the side where the strainer helps to weight it down. Plug in the connector and start spraying. The hose and wire length enable me to reach the entire boat with a 15' hose coil. When done it all stows nicely in any convenient locker. Sure does well for removing the famous Chesapeake Bay mud from the anchor.
On our H30, I installed the washdown pump as a portable model. I put a twelve connector on the side of the coaming forward of the cockpit. Wired the pump with the male connector, added a length of hose with a bronze strainer to it and fitted with a hose coil. To use I just lower the supply hose over the side where the strainer helps to weight it down. Plug in the connector and start spraying. The hose and wire length enable me to reach the entire boat with a 15' hose coil. When done it all stows nicely in any convenient locker. Sure does well for removing the famous Chesapeake Bay mud from the anchor.
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Mike Bernard
Buck
Your installation is what I expected since I have vacuflush systems for the heads and therefore couldn't tee off the head inlets if I wanted to. Question though-your hose fitting and valve is it located in the anchor well with the hole being through the bulkhead between the windless area and anchor well?
Your installation is what I expected since I have vacuflush systems for the heads and therefore couldn't tee off the head inlets if I wanted to. Question though-your hose fitting and valve is it located in the anchor well with the hole being through the bulkhead between the windless area and anchor well?
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Mike DiMario
Not used intake
We seldom use our water cooled feature on our refrigeration. I was wondering if I could tee into this though hull. Since they are diaphram pumps they should act like a check valve when one pump is running. You wouldn't be able to use both at once, due to the line size. but I don't see that as a problem. Mike D
We seldom use our water cooled feature on our refrigeration. I was wondering if I could tee into this though hull. Since they are diaphram pumps they should act like a check valve when one pump is running. You wouldn't be able to use both at once, due to the line size. but I don't see that as a problem. Mike D
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Buck Harrison
Mike.
Yes, the the hose fitting and valve are in the anchor well just below the switches. Actually I have a fitting that sandwitches the fiberglass wall of the anchor locker. The hose attaches on the inside, in the windless area (to the fitting's hose bib)and it has a regular male type threaded fitting on the outside (the anchor well side)onto which the valve is threaded. Then the garden hose threads onto the valve.
Yes, the the hose fitting and valve are in the anchor well just below the switches. Actually I have a fitting that sandwitches the fiberglass wall of the anchor locker. The hose attaches on the inside, in the windless area (to the fitting's hose bib)and it has a regular male type threaded fitting on the outside (the anchor well side)onto which the valve is threaded. Then the garden hose threads onto the valve.
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Jim
Portable too
Like Brett I have aportable too.. but with a slightly different configuration. I took a washdown pump and mounted inside of a fish tackle box with hols on the side for intake and outtake.. and attached the pump wires to metal screws that I mounted in the box... I then use a portable 12v battery starter ($40 at boat US) to provide power.. with one hoze going over the side and the other to the spraw nozzle. The 12v battery starter last about a season before I need to recharge it.. which you can do off the generator, regulator, or on-shore.. Total cost about $135 .. with $80 of it for the pump and $40 for the power source and the rest in misc fittings. I store in the anchor locker
Like Brett I have aportable too.. but with a slightly different configuration. I took a washdown pump and mounted inside of a fish tackle box with hols on the side for intake and outtake.. and attached the pump wires to metal screws that I mounted in the box... I then use a portable 12v battery starter ($40 at boat US) to provide power.. with one hoze going over the side and the other to the spraw nozzle. The 12v battery starter last about a season before I need to recharge it.. which you can do off the generator, regulator, or on-shore.. Total cost about $135 .. with $80 of it for the pump and $40 for the power source and the rest in misc fittings. I store in the anchor locker
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