What brand swivel do you recomend and what brand should be avoided. I'm not fond of stainless hardware in this application because of price and it's probibly a better idea to have spare swivels and discard and replace the hot dipped one when suspect. I have 3/8 chain and the recomended hardware looks huge compared to whats currently on the rode.
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weakest link
You might want to reconsider the dynamics involved before using any swivel. Regardless of whether you have all chain or rope rode, or some combination, the rode will twist just fine on it's own without affecting the set of the anchor. Unless you are using multiple anchors off the same rode, what purpose is served by the swivel is highly questionable. Particularly when combined with the inherent weakness of the swivel, using one at all isn't a good idea. I know someone will point out that the advertized load spec for a swivel can be sized to exceed that of the chain or rope, however, that spec isn't as relevent as it might appear. There are actually two design specs for swivels - perhaps more than two but I'm not aware of any. One is designed load; the second being breaking strength. They are sometimes referred to as other names but these are more descriptive. If you choose to use one at all, I'd suggest you select it based on both parameters - the weakest one being load. If you size it correctly, it will often be quite large as you said and even too large to fit the chain link.
You might want to reconsider the dynamics involved before using any swivel. Regardless of whether you have all chain or rope rode, or some combination, the rode will twist just fine on it's own without affecting the set of the anchor. Unless you are using multiple anchors off the same rode, what purpose is served by the swivel is highly questionable. Particularly when combined with the inherent weakness of the swivel, using one at all isn't a good idea. I know someone will point out that the advertized load spec for a swivel can be sized to exceed that of the chain or rope, however, that spec isn't as relevent as it might appear. There are actually two design specs for swivels - perhaps more than two but I'm not aware of any. One is designed load; the second being breaking strength. They are sometimes referred to as other names but these are more descriptive. If you choose to use one at all, I'd suggest you select it based on both parameters - the weakest one being load. If you size it correctly, it will often be quite large as you said and even too large to fit the chain link.
Conventional wisdom
is the reason for using at least 1 swivel in the chain portion of your mushroom rode, or so I am told. I believe that you could get away without using a swivel where the tidal currents are pretty small and gentle. Winds can also affect the chain to become twisted. We moor our 27' Tartan in the Hudson River (known as "the river that flows both ways" to the Iriquois) which can have a tidal current of up to 2 knots. The current is either flowing up or down the river and hardly ever meanders. Even with a 350# mushroom, 20' or 1/2" chain, a swivel, and 20' of 3/8" chain (in 20' of water) we have had problems with the chain wrapping around the stem of the anchor (mushroom may not have been properly set too). The evidence points to the fact that our boat is forced in a circular motion by the effects of tidal current and wind, so I think it wise to have the swivel in the rode. What is a little alarming to me is that the swivel really has to be a bit oversized to match the load of the chains. As stated previously, the swivel can be the weakest link. As for brands of hardware, Practical Sailor recently did a review of different chain manufacturers.
is the reason for using at least 1 swivel in the chain portion of your mushroom rode, or so I am told. I believe that you could get away without using a swivel where the tidal currents are pretty small and gentle. Winds can also affect the chain to become twisted. We moor our 27' Tartan in the Hudson River (known as "the river that flows both ways" to the Iriquois) which can have a tidal current of up to 2 knots. The current is either flowing up or down the river and hardly ever meanders. Even with a 350# mushroom, 20' or 1/2" chain, a swivel, and 20' of 3/8" chain (in 20' of water) we have had problems with the chain wrapping around the stem of the anchor (mushroom may not have been properly set too). The evidence points to the fact that our boat is forced in a circular motion by the effects of tidal current and wind, so I think it wise to have the swivel in the rode. What is a little alarming to me is that the swivel really has to be a bit oversized to match the load of the chains. As stated previously, the swivel can be the weakest link. As for brands of hardware, Practical Sailor recently did a review of different chain manufacturers.
Generally Speaking....
All things being equal in sizing...swivel,shacle, chain,and rope....that is, based on the size of the recommended rope....The weakest link in the "chain" will be the swivel, then the shackle, then the chain and lastly...the rope. Look up some specks and its surprising to many that the strongest part of the whole system is the rope. Anyway, to remove the twist in the rope, you can drop it off the pier with a small weight on the end and drag it through the water. If you have the time and are still out on the water, on your way back to the dock, drag it at a slow speed behind you in the water.
All things being equal in sizing...swivel,shacle, chain,and rope....that is, based on the size of the recommended rope....The weakest link in the "chain" will be the swivel, then the shackle, then the chain and lastly...the rope. Look up some specks and its surprising to many that the strongest part of the whole system is the rope. Anyway, to remove the twist in the rope, you can drop it off the pier with a small weight on the end and drag it through the water. If you have the time and are still out on the water, on your way back to the dock, drag it at a slow speed behind you in the water.
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