Anchor size

Sep 19, 2019
6
Hunter 33 Niagara Region
Hi there, wondering what anchor size and type (lake Ontario) would be best for a Hunter 33?
 
Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
As always with "what's the best" questions, "It depends ..." To help you decide, here are some common questions:
  1. What's your intended use - lunch, overnight, potential for holding against a gale, barely legal to qualify for racing rules? Each gives a different answer.
  2. What's your typical bottom? Almost anything will work in sand & clay. Rocks, weed, or fouled bottoms require more technology.
  3. What do your neighbors use? Not always a good answer as sometimes people just use what they bought with the boat without much thought.
For my decision model, I used the very risk-adverse statement I saw on one of these forums: "Imagine your bed, with a loved one in it, suspended from a cliff by a single rope with your anchor at the top. What would you buy?" I know that an anchor is the last line of defense if your boat is drifting towards a lea shore in a gale, or if you're asleep below and bad weather blows up unexpectedly. I bought a size up of the recommended Rocna (Sizing Guide), and never regretted the extra bucks. Remember that your boat weight is actual, not what the brochure says, so add a couple tons for the gear and crew. Your boat, your life, your decision.
 
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May 24, 2004
7,129
CC 30 South Florida
The 2004- …. Hunter 33 will have a strong tendency to sail at anchor so I would recommend a Lewmar CQR #45 hinged Plow anchor with at least 35' of 5/8" chain. Great holding power and quick reset.
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,993
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Welcome @mpassero to the forum. You ask a very good question.
It is one we address pretty much several times a season. I would encourage you to do a search on the forum for Anchor Size.

@Parsons has identified the key points. What are you going to feel comfortable with based on your expected sailing activities?

The "anchor sizing" charts for the various manufacturers are an excellent place to start. For many of us the size recommended for our boat will serve our needs. If we are venturing into more difficult conditions and planning to anchor out then the recommendation to "choose the next size up" is good advice.

What ever you do, think about the anchor as one element in your anchoring system. Learn some more about the whole system - your anchor, the chain, rode, bridle, kledge, etc... before you lay money down on one of those shiny new "This one will hold you through a Hurricane" hunks of metal.

In the ever changing waters of the PacificNW I found this review of anchors by Steve (SV Panope) informative in my decision making.
 

TomY

Alden Forum Moderator
Jun 22, 2004
2,758
Alden 38' Challenger yawl Rockport Harbor
Just another thought, if you're a coastal sailor and anchoring in generally protected areas, an anchor rated for your boat size can be a good choice.

Make sure you have the other parts, sufficient chain - rode. You'll have a back up - secondary anchor, that can also be used in tandem if you find yourself in for a blow in an exposed roadstead.

Day in and day out, the extra weight of an oversized anchor won't help you but will likely be more of chore to retrieve.
 
May 24, 2004
7,129
CC 30 South Florida
I agree with the recommendations about sizing the anchors that hauling a heavier anchor than adequate is unproductive; but not all boats are alike and the choosing of an anchor by size and displacement alone is not necessarily the best. The h33 has a well documented reputation for "sailing at anchor" (tacking from side to side) which cause the anchors to break hold and to drag. They don't know if its the B&R rigging, wing keels, windage on the topsides or other but at least the solution that we found was a heavier hinged plow anchor which would reset quicker upon a break. after switching to a 45 lbs. CQR we really never had another problem and it even held quite well in a couple of heavy blows.
 
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Aug 22, 2018
59
Hunter 33 Prinyers Cove, PE County, ON
I have a 35lb Bruce on my Hunter 33. The boat was new to me at the start of this season. I have anchored 10 times this season and have not dragged once. The holding was in weeds/mud or sand/shale.
When I bought the boat the PO had 30' chain and about 120' rope. I changed this out immediately to all chain rode. I have 200'. The deepest anchoring was in 20'. for this I put out about 180'. The shallowest was 5' and for this i still put out 100'. I feel that the rode is just as important as the anchor. The weight of the chain laying on the lake bed makes a difference.
Now the thing is I am also on Lake Ontario. personally I have no intention of being at anchor in a bad storm, and I choose my locations carefully depending on the latest forecast. So I for one am happy with my setup. However if i was to start to get more adventurous and head out for weeks at a time in unfamiliar waters then I would definitely consider one of those very nice Rocna or Mantus anchors, at least as a backup for the unexpected.
BTW every boat in my marina has a Bruce.
 
Aug 22, 2017
1,609
Hunter 26.5 West Palm Beach
The "best" anchor is a hotly debated topic in many places. A lot of people have strong opinions on the matter. Below are my personal opinions.

For a lunch hook, in sandy or muddy bottoms, I like the Danforth style anchors with the sliding ring, because they are easy to remove. Aluminum Danforths are also good here. I was surprised to see a little 4S Danforth hold my 27' boat in 30 knots of wind with 25" of 3/8" chain & 15:1 scope in a good sand bottom. Danforths provide A LOT of holding power for their size & weight when properly set in a good bottom. Unfortunately, Danforths can't be relied on to reset well after a tide change or wind shift, so I don't like to leave them unattended.

Plows grab in most bottom types & tend to reset quickly after tidal/wind shifts, but in heavy conditions they have been known to drag slowly with no end in sight, unless you really oversize them.

A CQR is very similar to a plow in appearance & performance. For may years they enjoyed excessive popularity because they were one of the few anchors that Lloyds of London would insure. Now, there are more choices.

Claws (like a Bruce) also reset well, & usually drag a little less than plows, but they can be a little more sensitive to bottom type. Genuine Bruce brand anchors are hard to find, but usually worth the extra money. Most of the knock offs don't perform quite as well. I still have pretty good luck with the knock offs.

The "modern anchors", like Rocna, Manson Supreme, Spade, Mantus, etc, are basically improved plows. They are not cheap, but they perform well in most situations. If you need to have only one anchor, and you expect to get caught in tough conditions at some point in time, & the budget is flush, then these may be the ones to look at.

The Mantus & Fortress anchors can be disassembled for long term storage in a small space. They are my favorite back up anchors for those unpleasant situations where you need to cut your main anchor loose.

As was already said, chain & scope are as important as the anchor itself. On 33' boats, with no windlass, I usually want 10-25' of 3/8" chain on the anchor & at least 1/2" 3-strand nylon line. Larger diameters of line are easier on the hands as well as being stronger, but if you go too big, then you don't get as much stretch & that can get tough on the deck hardware, unless you add a snubber. If the boat has a windlass, then I want to go with much more chain.

It is generally accepted that scope should be between 3:1 & 7:1 in most cases, with 7:1 having much better holding power, but shorter scope giving you less swing in a tight anchorage. Storm scope may need to be greater than 7:1.

The size of the anchor means as much as the type. Normally, manufacturers post a chart to suggest the best size for the particular size & weight of boat in question. Many people choose to go up one size from what the chart says, to add a margin of safety. Storm anchors should be AT LEAST one size larger.

Storm anchoring, or semi-permanent anchoring may involve the use of multiple anchors in complex geometry, but that is a topic for another thread.
 
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Sep 19, 2019
6
Hunter 33 Niagara Region
Great feedback, thank you for all the input! Interesting to hear about the Hunter's reputation for "sailing at anchor", I hadn't heard that before. My intention for the short term is anchoring mainly for lunch, not in storms and not too adventurous. While practicing some anchoring recently, the shaft on the Danforth that came with the boat actually bent, which was very surprising. However, it does seem undersized. Thanks again for the feedback!
 

ToddS

.
Sep 11, 2017
248
Beneteau 373 Cape Cod
Completely agree with JimInPB... I have a Manson Boss 45# primary (on a 37' boat... a bit bigger than yours). In 2 years, using it 15+ times, it never has moved a single inch... even when setting it, I back down, and it just dives right in. I've used CQRs in the past with decent success as well... but my new boat has a windlass which made my decision easier to go up a size or two... If you're lifting the anchor by hand then upsizing isn't as easy a decision. As my secondary I have a fortress (aluminum danforth)... which I've had for 10+ years... INCREDIBLE bind-blowing holding power, and super-convenient and light to move around by hand (not on a windlass)... easy to store... carry it in one hand while driving a dinghy out to set out a second anchor for example, but it won't reset well if the wind shifts, because the hinged flukes get "clogged" with weeds/mud/anything. If I knew I was always going to be on deck, I'd want that fortress holding me ahead of any other anchor I've used... but if I'm ashore, or asleep (which is more typical for my boating/cruising habits) I like my Manson better. The model ("Boss") I have is differently shaped, and intended for power boats, as it fits better in their bow roller style on some boats. Very happy on my sailboat with it though. With all my anchoring, I've always been fond of mostly nylon rode, with chain only at the end (ranging from 8 feet to 30 feet over the years). Pros and cons to chain and nylon both... no right or wrong answer, just different strategies.
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,942
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
Despite internet rumors you may have read, Hunter's do not necessarily sail back-n-forth at anchor more than other fin keel sailboats.
For most boats, a small triangular "anchor sail" rigged from the backstay or other line replicating that stay will bring the swinging down to a degree or three. Those little sails act like the fletching on an arrow. You will be amazed at how well one works. Ours takes a few minutes to rig, and the boat instantly stops moving around. I will link up a pic from the EY.o site, but there are many sites and threads about this, probably right here and on other sailing forums.
See reply 18 in this thread; Boat Swings Wildly at Anchor in a breeze - Page 2
 
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Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
Now the thing is I am also on Lake Ontario. personally I have no intention of being at anchor in a bad storm, and I choose my locations carefully depending on the latest forecast.
Not disagreeing with your comments, @jngotasail , except for this one clarification for people not as experienced as you. No one has any intention of being at anchor in a bad storm, yet anytime you're more than a couple hours away from your dock you have that possibility. I remember last summer being on a day sail with the Admiral and a few friends. A summer thunderstorm blew up, so bad that the Coasties actually got on Channel 16 with a weather advisory. We were about an hour out, and I watched everyone with a power boat race across the bay towards their home port. Looking at the radar, I figured that the best we could do was to get to the dock about the time it hit. Instead I sailed to a sandy patch in 15 feet of water (about 20 minutes), we anchored and went swimming. We were having a lunch when all hell broke loose. It was sustained over 34 kts, with gusts in the mid forties. Very impressive show, but no one felt concerned as we bobbed along. That's why your ground tackle (complete package) should be something that you can trust your life to. It's not only for cruisers, it also gives ordinary people some peace of mind.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
On Labor Weekend, my B323 was the first of 3 boat to a destination cove, so put my anchor down with about 80 feet of chain. I was also the smallest at 32 feet. I had a CQR 35. The other 2 boats were 34 and 38 feet and tied uo to me. My anchor held all 3 in 15 to 18 winds overnight.
 
Aug 22, 2017
1,609
Hunter 26.5 West Palm Beach
Great feedback, thank you for all the input! Interesting to hear about the Hunter's reputation for "sailing at anchor", I hadn't heard that before. My intention for the short term is anchoring mainly for lunch, not in storms and not too adventurous. While practicing some anchoring recently, the shaft on the Danforth that came with the boat actually bent, which was very surprising. However, it does seem undersized. Thanks again for the feedback!
My 212 sailed back & forth at anchor enough that I got a complaint from a concerned live-aboard that was nearby. My 26.5 (shallow wing) sits much more stable. Sometimes, you can lash the rudder in such a way, as to minimize the swing. As was said, a feathering sail is another option.

When you bend the shank on a Danforth, It usually means two things & maybe three. First, the anchor was dug in tight in the bottom. Second, it was probably pulled on in a direction that was not straight in line with the shank. Third, it was somewhat likely that you did not have one of the more expensive "high test" versions of a Danforth. The cheap ones are made out of soft steel & bend more easily.

When pulling out a Danforth that is dug in well, you want to pull up to where you are almost directly over the anchor, then tie off the anchor line, then back up in the direction that the shank was set in. Some guys pull past the anchor to dislodge it, which works if it is not set too tight & can sometimes work when it is set tight, but may bend the shank if you are off a few degrees with a well set anchor. Pulling at 89 degrees to the set direction is asking for trouble.

The slip shank anchors, that are more loosely based on Danforths, are less likely to bend a shank because the shackle slips back on the shank before the shank bends in most cases. Once the shackle is back by the crown of the anchor, the anchor normally pulls out with little resistance. With these anchors, you almost always drive past the anchor to pull them out.

On Danforths that don't have the slip shank feature, some people will "rock rig" them. This involves connecting the end of the anchor chain to the crown of the anchor, then using a heavy ty-wrap or thin line to lash the chain to the shank at the normal attachment point. In this case, you are pulling on the ty-wrap or thin line while at anchor & when it is time to pull it up, if it gets stuck, you intentionally break the Ty-wrap/thin line. To do this, you get directly above the anchor, then tie off the anchor line & let the boat fall back to make the ty-wrap break. The anchor then comes up easily. This is not an effective heavy weather option. This is a way to prevent an anchor from getting stuck & becoming irretrievable in moderate conditions or in areas with lots of snags on the bottom..
 
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Aug 22, 2017
1,609
Hunter 26.5 West Palm Beach
... My intention for the short term is anchoring mainly for lunch, not in storms and not too adventurous. ...
Since you sail lunch hook, these might be options -

16 or 22# size here


14# for a lunch hook, or 22# for a working anchor.

I may get flamed for listing the first one. It's a cheap piece of junk that is expendable & easy to get unstuck. It is not a strong anchor. It is the least likely to reset reliably after a tide or wind shift. My other listings are more reliable choices, with the last one probably being most reliable. Everything listed above is a lunch hook for a 33, expect the one that is marked as a working anchor. You should have at least one working anchor on board if you are going far enough from port that a storm might catch you some day. Keep in mind that actual storm anchors are bigger than working anchors.

These are not particularly expensive anchors.

Of course, you need enough chain & line to go with any of these anchors.

I am not recommending any particular supplier over another. The suppliers above were selected randomly.
 
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Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Great feedback, thank you for all the input! Interesting to hear about the Hunter's reputation for "sailing at anchor", I hadn't heard that before. My intention for the short term is anchoring mainly for lunch, not in storms and not too adventurous. While practicing some anchoring recently, the shaft on the Danforth that came with the boat actually bent, which was very surprising. However, it does seem undersized. Thanks again for the feedback!
I've had a Rocna on ours for 12 years. I added 50ft. 5/16" chain and 200 ft. 5/8" 3-strand. We anchor out every weekend and 1-2 week trips each summer. We've seen storms, high winds and even experienced a microburst with 52 knot gusts. Have never budged. But we are in Georgian Bay and the anchorages are endless. The Danforth supplied on these boats is standard equipment only to satisfy regulations and not meant to be primary.
That said, go with what makes you comfortable. Lunch hook can be something like the Bruce ( may find one for resale in your marine ), which has been the staple in this area for many years, but if you do any overnighting consider upgrading everything and look at the new generation anchors, Rocna, Manson etc.