Anchor setting technique for small boat.

[Ray Bowles]

Recently I anchored my San Juan 23 trying a new method. This was done in freshwater with a clay/silt or sand base. I lay out at least a 5 to 1 ratio with a 14 lb Delta using 20 feet of chain and 150 feet of 1/2 inch line.
We chose spots in 10 feet of water and accelerated the boat to about 3 knots. We let the anchor feed out from the bow by hand until the 40 foot mark on the line (60 feet total) was reached and cinched the line down hard. When the boat stopped we backed the boat up further while letting out an additional 20 feet. We backed it down again in reverse this time but I feel this did little for the anchor depth in the bottom.
We did this 4 different nights and on 2 nights we experenced winds around 18 to 20 mph with gusts to 25 and possibly higher. This method worked far better than the standard method of backing down in reverse. We dove on all 4 nights and only once in a densly packed sand bottom was the shaft of the anchor visable. It did hold that night in a storm.
The down side of this is the care needed when letting the anchor feed out. I let the anchor and about 10 feet of chain out at low speed before accelerating to 3 knots. (4 feet to the water and 6 feet under the water) At speed I let the rest of the chain and line out rapidly and wrapped the line around a cleat until the boat stopped and turned around.
This is the best set I've had with a light trailer sailed boat. My boat has a C/B that was raised when anchoring. A fin keel could be different.
Ray

 

[JoeWhite]

In order for the anchor to dig in, or set, it must be pulled along the ground. To do this back down and let the line out for all the lenght that you have. Tie the bitter end to a cleat and revup the engine in reverse as much as possible for about 1 minute. This will ensure that the anchor is set and the boat will not drag the anchor. Then reduce the length to 7:1 ratio.

 

[StinkBug]

Here's how I've been doing it lately on my mac25 here in San Diego, where we have a muddy bottom. I'm also single handed most of the time, so if you have help you could modify accordingly.

I pull into position facing the direction the boat is going to rest at anchor, and get the boat as close to a stop as possible, if not a slight drift backwards. Run up front and lower the anchor til it hits bottom. I then walk the rode back to the cockpit (with it guided through the forward pulpit) and drop the ouboard into reverse. I let out as much line as needed to get a good horizontal pull, then cinch it off on one of the jib sheet winches and let it stop the boat while still running in reverse. I then bring the revs up on the motor for a few seconds til I'm sure it's good and solid then bring the line back in to the desired scope.

Last time I was out I couldn't even raise the anchor by hand. I ended up pulling it in til the rode was completely vertical, cleating it, then using the outboard to drag it out of the bottom.

 

[Don12364]

My Delta got similar treatment at 3am one night. We were in a tidal river mouthandhad anchored in the normal way and had backed down hard (feathering prop so same pull in reverse as ahead). Soon after midnight the wind and tide changed . The anchor held just fine while I slept. Eventually wind and ebb tide swung the boat but the anchor didn't move - until these forces were sufficient to break it free, hopefully to reset in the opposite direction.
Except that it didn't.
By then it was going too fast and just skipped along the bottom and the point did not take hold at all. Fortunately it was the LACK of wind/water noise that woke me before I hit anything.
Now I do not set my anchor with a jerk.
If I want a very secure anchoring I set it in the normal way starting from stationary just where I want it to lie and then, once set, I motor forwards a few yards and then go astern pretty hard. The resulting jerk is very confidence building. Care is needed not to overrun the warp though!

Similarly I have had a Fortress anchor fail to set because we were going back too quickly on a tide.

Note: Most magazine anchor tests report them pulling out and resetting when subjected to enormous rode tensions - so go steady!

 

[Warren Milberg]

When I had 24-ft boat and was single-handling, I often anchored by sailing downwind and dropping the hook/chain/rode from the stern. I'd let out about half the desired scope, snub the line on a stern cleat and wait for the anchor to set and the boat to come to a stop. Walk the line forward to a bow cleat, let out the remaining scope, and tie it off. Boat would then turn itself upwind and settle down. Worked well.

 

[Ray Bowles]

Joe, Trying to back down an anchor with an outboard on a 3,000# boat doesn't work very well. On our 26,000# IP 38 it was a very easy thing to do. That is why I tried this approach and after actually diving on my anchor each time I've found this works better.

Warren, your method a actually about the same....SCORE!!!!...(I'm watching the Stanley Cup and Boston just scored) and sounds easier than what I did. Thanks for the idea. I'll try it this week as we are going out for another 5 days.
Ray

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

It has always been recommended that there should be 7 feet of line for every foot of depth when anchoring. If planning to anchor a lot, then add chain at least 25 feet to give the weight to drag the anchor along the bottom. Then put the boat in rear. Add more line if necessary until the anchor holds. If it does not, then search for another site.

One trick I learned years ago is to tie a line at the flukes attached to a fender so if your anchor is holding fast, you can go to the fender and grab the line and lift up the anchor flukes that are stuck for example in mud. Never lost an anchor after that trick particularly in lakes with a lot of debri.

In hurricane areas where I use to put boats out on the moorings, I used anchors rated two to three times heavier with 50 feet of chain and 150 to 200 ft. of oversized line with chaff gear such as leather or old hose or what ever so the anchor line would not chaff in two. I had two with one anchor to the east backing up and the other to the south backing up making sure the circle of path with both anchors holding would not interfere with other boats. Never lost a boat doing it this way. I learned from the old experienced locals versus the weekend warriors to the coast.

crazy dave condon

crazy dave condon

 

[Brian S]

I anchor on a lake with lots of weeds, using a Lewmar Claw (Bruce knockoff.) Honestly, I don't often deal with strong winds, but the weeds are a challenge. I drop the anchor, and let it run to the bottom (you can feel when it hits.) Then, I allow the boat to blow backwards, not allowing ANY tension on the rode. If the anchor drags at all, it's likely to pick up weeds and then it won't set. At about 4:1, I start to snug the rode in my hands, feeling for any drag. Then I pay out 7:1, and let it go at that. So far this season, I haven't pulled up any weeds, just mud, so I think I'm doing well so far.

Again, not challenging anchoring conditions...

Brian

 

[dscribner]

I stand on the bow, have the Admiral but the motor in reveres and dangle the hook in the water. When the boat stops ans just begins to reverse, I lower the anchor a slowly so I know when it hits, lays flat and the chain is paying out towards me. I payout about 50 feet then tighten my grips so the fluke will start to penetrate. At this point I can feel dragging or skipping. When the anchor bites and practically pulls me off my feet, I pay enough line for a decent scope (between 5:1 and 10:1, depending on location, conditions and tide) cleat it and have the Mrs. back it tight. I've anchored in 25 knot winds, spent the night without dragging. The only time I've dragged was in 5 knot winds. I adjusted the scope to give the folks around us a little more swinging room, then went ashore for a hike. Came back to find her in a different spot. Island caretaker had to board her just before she left the cover for more open waters. GPS was on and showed her bouncing off boats then straight back to our spot. OY! Never adjust in the presence of others.

 

[JerryA]

Similar to what I do with my P23. I use a Danforth style anchor in sandy/gravel bottoms. So far so good. Love anchoring out overnight.

JerryA

 

[dscribner]

My goodness! I just read my post and I sound like a moron! Wow! Really folks, I'm an engineer! No, really!

 

[Douglast]

no apologies needed since you get a free pass because your an engineer...

 

[Indysailor]

My wife and I anchor by slowing down to main only. I drop the anchor as we go slowly forward, letting out rode when it hits bottom. When I've let out enough, I wrap the rode around a bow cleat and we sheet in the main so that the boat swings around into the wind when the anchor bites. Mud bottom, with a Danforth anchor and we have yet to drag. If we feel its necessary, we back down on the hook once it's set.