On my '88 L-37, the p.o. had installed an electric windlass (thank you very much!). As I am still "sorting out" this new to me boat, I keep coming across things that i could use some sage advice on. To wit, it seems that the p.o. had relied on the windlass and chain rode to keep the anchor, when not in use, snug up against the roller. Although that may be ok, i would prefer to have a backup of some sort. My dilemna is that I am not sure how to do that. I believe the anchor roller is stock, and i am carrying a bruce anchor on it. There is a set of holes in the "channel" of the roller assembly, which conceivably one could put some sort of pin through, but then I would have to drill through the anchor, since there is not a hole it lines up with. There is a hole on top of the anchor (for retrieval or trip line) but that is too high off of the roller assembly to connect to anything. I don't think I can go with an in-line chain tensioner, since the chain is raised above the deck, in order to feed the windlass. So, who has good ideas to offer up!
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Mickey Goodman
Anchor
Greg, I installed a windlass on my 77 L37 last year. I initially purchased a fixture at West Marine to secure the anchor to the deck so I won't have to keep preasure on the windlass. It cost about $35.00 - and I had returned it this season. I kept slight preasure on the chain at the windlass to keep the chain from rubbing on the deck and to keep the anchor to rocking and making noise. It seems to work well for me. When not in use I disconnect power to the windlass to avoid accidental deployment. Check the pictures of my windlass installation in the archives. I think I did a pretty interesting installation. Especially coming from an accountant.
Greg, I installed a windlass on my 77 L37 last year. I initially purchased a fixture at West Marine to secure the anchor to the deck so I won't have to keep preasure on the windlass. It cost about $35.00 - and I had returned it this season. I kept slight preasure on the chain at the windlass to keep the chain from rubbing on the deck and to keep the anchor to rocking and making noise. It seems to work well for me. When not in use I disconnect power to the windlass to avoid accidental deployment. Check the pictures of my windlass installation in the archives. I think I did a pretty interesting installation. Especially coming from an accountant.
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Paul Akers
Channel Lock
Greg. I carry a Bruce #33 on my bow roller, also. It was originally designed for a Danforth which I keep in the anchor locker as a backup/second/stern anchor. It never fit on the roller very well (common Hunter problem). There were two delron rollers on the unit. The foward roller I left in place and currently cradles the Bruce. The aft roller was a bit raised and I removed that one. I replaced it with a boom bail to prevent the anchor rode from slipping out of the channel when at anchor. To secure the Bruce I purchased a channel lock for the end of the anchor (see related link, below) and mounted it on deck beside the anchor locker and used good size backer washers. The pin fits right through the anchor shank where the chain connects to the anchor. The weight of the Bruce keeps the whole anchor in place and the channel lock secures the anchor. It hold everything in place real well (even the time I bumped into the fuel dock when visiting another marina in Connecticut).
Greg. I carry a Bruce #33 on my bow roller, also. It was originally designed for a Danforth which I keep in the anchor locker as a backup/second/stern anchor. It never fit on the roller very well (common Hunter problem). There were two delron rollers on the unit. The foward roller I left in place and currently cradles the Bruce. The aft roller was a bit raised and I removed that one. I replaced it with a boom bail to prevent the anchor rode from slipping out of the channel when at anchor. To secure the Bruce I purchased a channel lock for the end of the anchor (see related link, below) and mounted it on deck beside the anchor locker and used good size backer washers. The pin fits right through the anchor shank where the chain connects to the anchor. The weight of the Bruce keeps the whole anchor in place and the channel lock secures the anchor. It hold everything in place real well (even the time I bumped into the fuel dock when visiting another marina in Connecticut).
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Jim Vincent
Anchor pin
Greg, I did exactly what you're talking about. my anchor roller channel had holes in it, so all i did was drill a 5/16" hole in my 45 lb. CQR anchor and used a 1/4" pin to secure it. ...works great and it was cheap, simple
Greg, I did exactly what you're talking about. my anchor roller channel had holes in it, so all i did was drill a 5/16" hole in my 45 lb. CQR anchor and used a 1/4" pin to secure it. ...works great and it was cheap, simple
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Carl and Juliana Dupre
We Drilled Our Bruce
Hi, Greg. Sounds like you are having a great time exploring 'Blueberry'! We have a new H340 and faced the same quandry. Securing our Bruce with a anchor pin would require drilling a hole, and at first we shuddered at the thought of drilling our nice new anchor. But then we looked at that beefy Bruce shaft and realized that we could probably turn it into swiss cheese with holes and it still would be far from the weakest link in the overall anchor system. So we drilled, put a pin in, and it works great, and we stopped worrying about it. Carl and Jule s/v 'Syzygy'
Hi, Greg. Sounds like you are having a great time exploring 'Blueberry'! We have a new H340 and faced the same quandry. Securing our Bruce with a anchor pin would require drilling a hole, and at first we shuddered at the thought of drilling our nice new anchor. But then we looked at that beefy Bruce shaft and realized that we could probably turn it into swiss cheese with holes and it still would be far from the weakest link in the overall anchor system. So we drilled, put a pin in, and it works great, and we stopped worrying about it. Carl and Jule s/v 'Syzygy'
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Carl Manns
A hole in the Bruce
I put a hole in my Bruce and it has worked just fine. Several people saw what I have done and have copied the idea. (1990 35.5)
I put a hole in my Bruce and it has worked just fine. Several people saw what I have done and have copied the idea. (1990 35.5)
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Don
Greg and Mickey - re anchors
Greg and others: The P.O. of my 37.5 tied a line from the base of the forestay/furner with a brass clip to attach to the head of the anchor. It fits snugly and seems to hold everthing in place. Easy solution. Mickey: I have the pics of your windlass installation hanging at my desk. Great job. (I can say that as one accountant to another.) Installing one on my 93 37.5 is one of my many winter projects. What model windlass did you use and, aside from relocating the foot switches, anything else to be aware of/do differently?
Greg and others: The P.O. of my 37.5 tied a line from the base of the forestay/furner with a brass clip to attach to the head of the anchor. It fits snugly and seems to hold everthing in place. Easy solution. Mickey: I have the pics of your windlass installation hanging at my desk. Great job. (I can say that as one accountant to another.) Installing one on my 93 37.5 is one of my many winter projects. What model windlass did you use and, aside from relocating the foot switches, anything else to be aware of/do differently?
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Dakota Jim[author]
Shock Cord
After the electric windless has tightened the chain, I put a shock cord from the chain around the cleat in the anchor locker and back to the chain. Hate Pins as they are sometimes hard to pull when you most need to do so.
After the electric windless has tightened the chain, I put a shock cord from the chain around the cleat in the anchor locker and back to the chain. Hate Pins as they are sometimes hard to pull when you most need to do so.
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