I am having a lot of trouble trying to get these lights working. With the switch turned to steaming light the front light at the top of the mast is illuminated. Correct? With the switch turned to anchor light only the rear light is illuminated whereas I believe both should be illuminated. I have tried taking the connection on the mast end (the one that connects to the hull fitting) apart and switched the wires around but have had no success. I'm really desperate for I would not have thought that something as simple as this would have stomped me. Any help would be really appreciated.
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Your lights may actually be working
It sounds like your steaming light is working the way it should. The anchor light may also be working properly, it's just that you can't see its forward sector from the deck of your boat. Turn the anchor light on one night and get at least 20 yards away from the bow of the boat and see if the light is visible. The steaming light should not be lit. Peter H23 "Raven"
It sounds like your steaming light is working the way it should. The anchor light may also be working properly, it's just that you can't see its forward sector from the deck of your boat. Turn the anchor light on one night and get at least 20 yards away from the bow of the boat and see if the light is visible. The steaming light should not be lit. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Guest
Thanks Peter but
I have been doing this in our drive way with the mast laying down. So I have been able to clearly see the two globes. Its 9.30 pm here and dark. I just can not figure this one out for surely when the anchor switch is activated power must then be fed to both globes. I believe they share a common earth. So how does the power get across to the steaming light when the anchor light is activated. Hope every one can stick with me on this one cos I am tearing my hair out.
I have been doing this in our drive way with the mast laying down. So I have been able to clearly see the two globes. Its 9.30 pm here and dark. I just can not figure this one out for surely when the anchor switch is activated power must then be fed to both globes. I believe they share a common earth. So how does the power get across to the steaming light when the anchor light is activated. Hope every one can stick with me on this one cos I am tearing my hair out.
Let me see if I understand you correctly
Do you have two separate lights, one on the front of the mast about 2/3 of the way up (steaming light) and the other is at the masthead (anchor light)? Or do you have one light at the top of the mast with two bulbs, one facing forward and the other aft? Peter H23 "Raven"
Do you have two separate lights, one on the front of the mast about 2/3 of the way up (steaming light) and the other is at the masthead (anchor light)? Or do you have one light at the top of the mast with two bulbs, one facing forward and the other aft? Peter H23 "Raven"
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Guest
Two at top
Right at the top of the mast there are two globes. One facing forward the other facing backwards. My thoughts are that when you move the three position switch to steaming position one wire goes to the steaming light and off that wire near the switch there is a wire with a diode that continues on to link with the anchor light. The diode allows power to go one way only. So when the steaming light is on the powere is stopped going to the anchor kight by the diode. When the three way switch is moved over to the anchor lght postion power goes the anchor light but also is allowed to go throught hediode to the steaming light. Does this make sence? So it may appear that the diode is not working!
Right at the top of the mast there are two globes. One facing forward the other facing backwards. My thoughts are that when you move the three position switch to steaming position one wire goes to the steaming light and off that wire near the switch there is a wire with a diode that continues on to link with the anchor light. The diode allows power to go one way only. So when the steaming light is on the powere is stopped going to the anchor kight by the diode. When the three way switch is moved over to the anchor lght postion power goes the anchor light but also is allowed to go throught hediode to the steaming light. Does this make sence? So it may appear that the diode is not working!
You may be right
The diode may be shot, or it may be wired in incorrectly (backwards?). How new is the boat? You can check the diode with a multimeter. With the light on you should measure about 0.7 V across the diode. You can check the diode's resistance with the ohmmeter. The diode should show low resistance with one polarity and very high resistance with the other. If it's low or high both ways, it's probably bad. I hate the diode setup anyway because it wastes precious electricity in heat. I solved this problem on my H23 (which had no steaming light switch anyway) by completely removing the entire assembly (less weight at the masthead) and running the wires to a new steaming light (Aqua-Signal) that I mounted on the front of the mast above the spreaders. For an anchor light, I use a Davis Megalight (LED) fastened to a pigstick which I hoist on the main halyard. The light ends up being about a foot above my wind indicator. It's not quite as bright as a USCG-certified anchor light, but since it draws less than 0.1 A, it won't drain my battery overnight like a conventional light will. I'd rather have a slightly dimmer light that stays on all night than a legal light that goes out at 1 am and kills all my electrics in the process. I also keep a small Dietz hurricane lantern (oil-fired) on board as a backup. The regs. say the anchor light has to be visible at 2 nm, they don't say it has to be electric. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
The diode may be shot, or it may be wired in incorrectly (backwards?). How new is the boat? You can check the diode with a multimeter. With the light on you should measure about 0.7 V across the diode. You can check the diode's resistance with the ohmmeter. The diode should show low resistance with one polarity and very high resistance with the other. If it's low or high both ways, it's probably bad. I hate the diode setup anyway because it wastes precious electricity in heat. I solved this problem on my H23 (which had no steaming light switch anyway) by completely removing the entire assembly (less weight at the masthead) and running the wires to a new steaming light (Aqua-Signal) that I mounted on the front of the mast above the spreaders. For an anchor light, I use a Davis Megalight (LED) fastened to a pigstick which I hoist on the main halyard. The light ends up being about a foot above my wind indicator. It's not quite as bright as a USCG-certified anchor light, but since it draws less than 0.1 A, it won't drain my battery overnight like a conventional light will. I'd rather have a slightly dimmer light that stays on all night than a legal light that goes out at 1 am and kills all my electrics in the process. I also keep a small Dietz hurricane lantern (oil-fired) on board as a backup. The regs. say the anchor light has to be visible at 2 nm, they don't say it has to be electric. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Jeff Peltier
jumper wire
More than likely, that is a double pole, double throw sitch. For the steaming light to work both ways, a jumper wire must be run from one side to the other. This allows it to work in both position. So either there is a fault in the jumper wire or one corner of the switch is bad. Hope that helps, Jeff Peltier
More than likely, that is a double pole, double throw sitch. For the steaming light to work both ways, a jumper wire must be run from one side to the other. This allows it to work in both position. So either there is a fault in the jumper wire or one corner of the switch is bad. Hope that helps, Jeff Peltier
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g
Hooray
I have worked it out. Simple really! I took the switch panel out this morning and guess what? There is not a diode in site. I guess they forgot to put it in when they wired the boat at the factory. (She's only 12 months old). So because we are around the other side of the world and it would take ages for one to come out from the states,anyone got a recomendation for the type of diode to wire in? Any help appreciated.
I have worked it out. Simple really! I took the switch panel out this morning and guess what? There is not a diode in site. I guess they forgot to put it in when they wired the boat at the factory. (She's only 12 months old). So because we are around the other side of the world and it would take ages for one to come out from the states,anyone got a recomendation for the type of diode to wire in? Any help appreciated.
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Tom
5 Amp
According to the manual, the breaker for the mast wiring is 5 amp. A diode that can handle 5 or 6 amps should be sufficient. You'll need a reverse voltage of 12V or better, which should be an easy spec to meet. A TV repair shop could probably provide you with a suitable device. Fair winds, Tom
According to the manual, the breaker for the mast wiring is 5 amp. A diode that can handle 5 or 6 amps should be sufficient. You'll need a reverse voltage of 12V or better, which should be an easy spec to meet. A TV repair shop could probably provide you with a suitable device. Fair winds, Tom
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Guest
M
Mark
Diode
Try a 1N5402 Diode. It is rated for 5+ amps at 200 Peak reverse Voltage . A 1N5403, 1N5404 would also work OK.
Try a 1N5402 Diode. It is rated for 5+ amps at 200 Peak reverse Voltage . A 1N5403, 1N5404 would also work OK.
M
Mark
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