Anchor Choices for mud

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

Jim Logan

Tim: I have a 33 ft hunter - about 11,000# loaded displacement. I need to be able to anchor in what could be called mud, but is actually a sort of jellylike ooze. There is probably sand under the mud, but usually the sand is under so much mud I never get to the sand. Mostly, I anchor in 15-25' of water. what would be your recommendations as far as type and weight for these conditions? I am using a cheap "danforth" type anchor, that almost always drags if the wind is more than 10 kts., assuming I can get the anchor to set in the first place. Thanks
 
M

Mark Johnson

Delta works for me...

I use the 44 lb Delta with all chain rode. Most of our anchoring is done in mud here on Long Island Sound. Our boat weighs about 28,000 lbs and we have never dragged even with serveral boats rafted up. You will have to check and see what size Delta is correct for your displacement.
 
S

Scottie Sale

My choice

Use a Bruce---found that it sets fast and holds well in what we call in Charleston "pluff mud".
 
G

Gary Wyngarden

Anchors in Mud

Jim, The December 1999 issue of Practical Sailor rated the holding power of 17 different anchors in mud. They sell back issues if you want to read the article. Top rated were the CQR (which I have, but it's pricey) and the Barnacle which I've never heard of. To me, the security and the good night's sleep were worth the extra money. Good luck. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
 
B

Barry

I Find the Bruce Better than CQR in Mud

On my H34 I carry a 22# Bruce and a 35# CQR both on bow rollers with about 40' of chain. I find the Bruce to be better in mud and the CQR better in weeds. Barry
 
D

Dave

Dragging in 10 knots of wind?

I am very surprised by your comments. In similar conditions I have never dragged once with a danforth. I'm just wondering what you are using for anchoring practices? Just for comparison purposes I always use a minimum of 7 to 1 scope. In 8 or 9 feet of water I let out at least 70 feet of line (water depth plus distance to bow from water surface = total depth). When the anchor is set I always apply reverse engine power to make sure it is holding. Take a few bearings and make sure you are not moving. If you are using less scope due to crowded conditions may be the problem. I use plastic markers in my rode to show the amount of line let out. Please tell us your practices so we can offer some advice on changes for better results. I love staying on a hook or a mooring in the summer....the wind always blows through the boat keeping things cool and no drunken crazies running around the dock all night...just peace and quiet and stars. dave
 
T

Tom Schlagel

Anchoring Technique

I would have to agree with Dave of Mystic in that it may be your anchoring technique moreso than the type of anchor. If you do not have the proper amount of scope and you do not back the anchor down hard (2 things that most folks do not do properly when anchoring) then it really doesn't matter what type of anchor you use. We sleep soundly after backing down our 35 pound Delta on our H37.5 with 50 feet of chain on it!!
 
D

Dakota Jim Russell

#35 Bruce or Delta

I have a Hunter 340 with a 35# Delta, friend has a Hunter 336 with a 33# Bruce. We like both like them. I also have a 15# Fortress as a spare which digs nicely. But wouldn't suggest it for ooze. Check the recommendations at Boat US, or West Marine . . . However the word ooze bothers me. We anchor in shale mud that is quite slippery . . . means lots of scope and a protected bay. In sand, solid mud we are much more comfortable.
 
T

Tim King

Choices for mud

Hello Jim, Danforth type anchors work well in mud if they set well. If not set well they'll plane across the bottom when loaded. You may want to consider a plowshare anchor. Both Delta and Bruce set well and when loaded they dig deeper. I think Deltas stow better on a roller but Bruces hold better. Did you know Bruce anchors were designed to hold oil rigs in the North Sea? Oil rig Bruces are about the size of a bus and were computer designed to be better than existing technology at the time. If you like the Bruce design I suggest the Simpson Lawrence Claw. The Bruce patent has expired so the claw is the same geometry at a much lower price. Another technique to help the anchor set is an extra heavy chain rode or a sentinal. This will ensure the rode end of the shank stays down and cause the flukes to dig in rather than lift out. For a 33' hull I recommend a 33# anchor and at least 40' of 7/16" chain rode in your tackle. And, of course, always make sure the anchor is well set by having the proper scope and backing down on the rode. Good luck, Tim
 
Status
Not open for further replies.