Anchor Chain

[4Winds]

I'm trying to identify the grade of chain on a recently acquired 2005 Hunter 33, < 15000lb. The prior owner had 115' of triple strand 1/2" or 5/8" line back-spliced to the last link of 60' of chain... the links seem to have inside width of about 9/16" and inside length of 1" and a diameter of 5/16". The links seem to have "LL" and "wm4" written on them, but it is difficult to discern. I have tried to find references to these marking without success. the anchor is a spade shape. I want to understand what sort of anchoring power I have now. Chain and line look to be in ok condition, but is it (probably) worth investing in new chain and line and anchor anyway? Any ideas of what I have?

I want to take the boat from Wilmington, NC as far north as Maine and as far south as the Bahamas, where I'll be anchoring in up to 25' of water and withstanding up to 42 knots of wind. I'm thinking I need about 300' of 5/8" three strand twisted line backspliced (so it goes through my windlass) to 5/16 diameter chain and a 35 lb anchor with 1000 cm2 of surface area (how do you measure that>. How much chain, what kind of chain? Chain Grade 30 BBB, Proofcoil ? Grade 40 HT ? I know it is a personal choice, but given fact set above, any recommendation for anchors and bridles? If I have made an uninformed or incorrect statement, please smack me down with an explanation!

 

[sail sfbay]

Congratulations on your new sailboat!!

With 175 ft of chain and rope you will have slightly less than that recommended to achieve 7:1 scope. I would espeacially look at the anchor size to be sure it is adequate for your anchoring conditions, e.g., bottom, wind, current, boat weight/length. If the chain is in good condition, keep the chain and buy longer rope.

In my case, I replaced the tired and insufficient length anchor rode on my 2005 Hunter 46 with 5/16” x 50 feet G43 G4 chain and 5/8" x 300' 8-Plait Nylon Rope and upsized / changed anchor from the relatively light weight delta anchor to a much heavier Mansom Supreme. Others in the forum like more chain and a different type / size of anchor depending on their anchoring conditions.

Lots of helpful information here:
How to Pick an Anchor Rope Size, Type, Length and More – Anchoring.com
Selecting an Anchor Rode | West Marine
Anchor Chain and Rope Size Guide - Jimmy Green Marine
Anchor System Sizing Tables (Reply #6) & Swivels Ground Tackle & Anchor System Sizing TABLES & Swivels

 

[rgranger]

If I have made an uninformed or incorrect statement, please smack me down with an explanation!

LOL....obviously not your first time on an online forum.

I got no smacks for you but would make sure that your "back splice" goes around a thimbal and is not directly slipped through the anchor chain... and then use a hefty shackle that has been wired closed.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Your existing anchor looks like a Delta. If it is 35# that’s a pretty good size for the boat, but I’m sure you’ll see lots of recommendations for a newer generation anchor (eg Rocna, Mantus, Mason Supreme).

You’ll also need to check your windlass gypsy for markings. That will probably limit your chain choices and possibly your line size.

 

[4Winds]

LOL....obviously not your first time on an online forum.

I got no smacks for you but would make sure that your "back splice" goes around a thimbal and is not directly slipped through the anchor chain... and then use a hefty shackle that has been wired closed.

View attachment 209212

I'm not sure and eye splice (above) and shackle that will feed through my windlass ... It'd have to be pretty small for mine ... Your boat is 4' longer than mine, must have the same size windlass so I will definitely look to use an eye splice over a back splice if I can. Currently the line is attached to the last link in the chain directly, which I do not like either .

 

[Mike Oldak]

I generally only cruise on the Chesapeake Bay, but during our restoration I noticed that my anchor chain on our H34 doesn't last forever

.

 

[RoyS]

With a rope rode be sure to deploy a kellet when you anchor. Opportunities to anchor are diminishing due to an over abundance of empty moorings and goofy Save the Eelgrass restrictions.

 

[RobChichester]

A word to the wise. Be mindful of the TYPE of chain you want/need. The published size of chain may be the same but the actual dimensions for hi-tensile vs galvanized chain are different. It matters to your windlass. I can refer you to an article on replacing anchor rode if you are interested.

 

[Terry Cox]

I'm trying to identify the grade of chain on a recently acquired 2005 Hunter 33, < 15000lb.

Most vintage Hunters came with 5/16" (diameter of the wire, not the length of the link or width of the space between the wire) grade 40 hot dipped galvanized chain. You need to verify that any new chain will slide through the windlass gypsy smoothly. If you're going to replace what you have, cut off a short section and take it to an ACCO chain suppler to confirm the size like I did. Also, make sure that you specify hot dipped galvanized chain. ACCO is a very good quality USA brand product. The section that I bought in 2015 still looks new after anchoring many times in sea water. Grade 40 will withstand a higher load and more resistant to corrosion than BBB or Proof Coil.

 

[flightlead404]

Most vintage Hunters came with 5/16" (diameter of the wire, not the length of the link or width of the space between the wire) grade 40 hot dipped galvanized chain. You need to verify that any new chain will slide through the windlass gypsy smoothly. If you're going to replace what you have, cut off a short section and take it to an ACCO chain suppler to confirm the size like I did. Also, make sure that you specify hot dipped galvanized chain. ACCO is a very good quality USA brand product. The section that I bought in 2015 still looks new after anchoring many times in sea water. Grade 40 will withstand a higher load and more resistant to corrosion than BBB or Proof Coil.

second this.

I actually purchased a foot or two of chain first, took it back to the boat and ran it back and forth through the gypsy a couple of times to make sure before I committed to 200'

I'm told that different brands of supposedly the same spec chain may be different enough to cause issues. I can't comment first hand on that.

 

[jssailem]

on verifying your chain type and size before buying the lot.

Check your Windlass. If the markings are still readable, the chain size and material should still be on the gypsy. You can look up the data on the manufactures website if you know the brand and model (often posted near the motor of the windlass).

Length of chain and the use of accessories have many believers and detractors. What is a constant is the science.

A Kettle is a way to add weight to your rode so that the anchor shaft drags parallel to the sea bottom this keeps the pointy end of the anchor where it can do some good, digging into the sea floor. 100-fooit of chain works in the same way.

A 100-foot length of 3/8-inch BBB weighs approximately 165 pounds, while identical lengths of HT and PC weigh 153 and 140 pounds, respectively. Here is an article that may help you address some of the questions. Anchor Chain Weight Chart South Lake Tahoe | Boat Salvage – Tahoe Boat Salvage & Buoys

To make the transition from rode to chain the most effective and smoothest running through the gypsy when deploying or retrieving is a rope to chain splice. It does require that you inspect the splice from time to time, just like everything on the boat. A thimble adds an opportunity for the rode to bind on retrieval.

Here is a how to for 3 strand rope to chain splice... How to Make a Rope-to-Chain Splice
Here is a how to for 8 plait rope to chain splice... https://www.neropes.com/fileadmin/u...ed_to_Chain__2020_Splicing__NER_ARK_Print.pdf

 

[Terry Cox]

Kettle

Kellet or Sentinel. Sorry for being such a pic, John.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

A Kettle is a way to add weight to your rode

The kettle is for tea. Much too light to attach to your rode.

Mind you, it would certainly give the neighbours something to talk about when they saw you sliding your tea kettle down the anchor road.

 

[jssailem]

What if I fill it with molten lead? Let it harden. Then use it on the anchor rode. Would be a good use of a kettle. As a Kellet

The kellet can consist of any dead weight (a tea kettle) which is then attached to a point on the rode.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Then use it on the anchor road.

Now I think you're headed down the wrong road. The kettle kellet would be far more effective if you used it on the anchor rode.

With that way of thinking, you'll likely wind up like this fellow who tried to anchor on Old Anchor Road but didn't let out enough rode to hold the load. He reaped what he sowed.

 

[Kings Gambit]

I have a 15000# sailboat; 5/16” SS chain of 160 ft backed with 200 ft of 9/16 nylon 3-strand spliced directly to the last link of the chain. You cannot use a thimble and shackle if you want it to pass through a combination windlass. Have a professional or rigging shop do the splice. The latter may be set up to “test” the splice. My tackle assembly yields 7:1 scope at 50 ft (i.e., water depth plus height of roller above bottom). You might use 7:1 in 25 ft to determine the total length of rode wished, combination rope and chain. I use a 45# SS Suncor Plowmaster. It resembles a CQR but has much wider palms. They’re around.

Something I am mulling about.