Don't anchor much but when I do my boat has about 48ft. of chain and a good size Fortress anchor. When I do anchor it's usually in less than 15 ft of water so up to this point I havent't seen the need to add any rope to this configuration. Now I'm having second thoughts and am going to add some 5/8 line. Here's the question, should I reduce the amount of chain or just add the line to the existing chain as it is? Also, when I do anchor in 8-12 ft. of water should I just go with the chain or let out more scope to have some rope in the equation?
Anchor/Chain Question
- Thread starter Hugh4753
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Dont give up the chain
I would love to have that much chain!! I would go with adding the rope to the chain. As far as how much scope... you get a 4:1 in 12 ft of water with what you currently have. In most situations that should be adequate especially with your present gear. S/V Jenny Lynn
I would love to have that much chain!! I would go with adding the rope to the chain. As far as how much scope... you get a 4:1 in 12 ft of water with what you currently have. In most situations that should be adequate especially with your present gear. S/V Jenny Lynn
Add nylon
Keep the chain and splice on some 5/8" three-strand nylon. Simpson Lawrence has instructions for splicing three-braid to chain. It is part of their windlass manuals. Hugh, I don't think you use near enough scope. If your bow is say four feet above the water and you are in 15 feet you have a scope of 2-1/2. I was taught a scope of five is normal for an all chain rode (and a scope of 7 for nylon rode). That says add around 100 feet for where you are anchoring. While you are adding, I suggest you splice 200 feet of nylon behind your 48 feet of chain. That will give you a real nice rode for depths to around 30 feet in even fairly nasty weather.
Keep the chain and splice on some 5/8" three-strand nylon. Simpson Lawrence has instructions for splicing three-braid to chain. It is part of their windlass manuals. Hugh, I don't think you use near enough scope. If your bow is say four feet above the water and you are in 15 feet you have a scope of 2-1/2. I was taught a scope of five is normal for an all chain rode (and a scope of 7 for nylon rode). That says add around 100 feet for where you are anchoring. While you are adding, I suggest you splice 200 feet of nylon behind your 48 feet of chain. That will give you a real nice rode for depths to around 30 feet in even fairly nasty weather.
Chain and Rode
Hugh, my guess we anchor in some of the same spots and I have 75' of chain and 200' of rode. I try to anchor in 10' of water and thus allowing approx. 5' from waterline to bow accounting for 15 total feet. At 75' of chain that makes 5:1 with chain when I let out all my chain and then about 10' of rode. I do not need a snubber for the chain when I get to the rode and can keep my anchor radius relatively tight. Also makes for more peaceful nights. BTW I used to have a Fortress and had a 10' stainless high tensel cable that attached to the anchor and then the chain. It allowed it to set and reset easier in that mud and sand along the Pamlico. It seemed to just cut its' way into the bottom.
Hugh, my guess we anchor in some of the same spots and I have 75' of chain and 200' of rode. I try to anchor in 10' of water and thus allowing approx. 5' from waterline to bow accounting for 15 total feet. At 75' of chain that makes 5:1 with chain when I let out all my chain and then about 10' of rode. I do not need a snubber for the chain when I get to the rode and can keep my anchor radius relatively tight. Also makes for more peaceful nights. BTW I used to have a Fortress and had a 10' stainless high tensel cable that attached to the anchor and then the chain. It allowed it to set and reset easier in that mud and sand along the Pamlico. It seemed to just cut its' way into the bottom.
chain vs. rope
Nylon anchor line is musch lighter, easier to handle and easier to cleat off than chain. For your anchoring needs you probably have more chain than you need.
Nylon anchor line is musch lighter, easier to handle and easier to cleat off than chain. For your anchoring needs you probably have more chain than you need.
Keep the chain and add nylon rode...
You didn't mention the size/type of the chain, but be sure it is compatible size/strength-wise with the rode/anchor/shackles. Carl is right on about your scope - failing to account for the waterline to deck height is common. Also, be sure to know whether your depth gauge measures the distance from the waterline or from the bottom of the keel. Always use chain AND rode when you anchor and you'll get the best of BOTH worlds: Chain gives you catenary - the sag caused by the weight of the chain. This helps keep the pull on the anchor effectively horizontal almost all the time. Catenary helps your anchor dig in better, right up until the gale comes and your rode/chain are bar tight. Nylon rode gives you shock absorbtion, which becomes critical when the gale comes and your rode is bar tight. Finally, always anchor with the maximum reasonable scope - it really helps when the gale comes in, and can make the difference between riding it out and...... Cheers, Bob s/y X SAIL R 8
You didn't mention the size/type of the chain, but be sure it is compatible size/strength-wise with the rode/anchor/shackles. Carl is right on about your scope - failing to account for the waterline to deck height is common. Also, be sure to know whether your depth gauge measures the distance from the waterline or from the bottom of the keel. Always use chain AND rode when you anchor and you'll get the best of BOTH worlds: Chain gives you catenary - the sag caused by the weight of the chain. This helps keep the pull on the anchor effectively horizontal almost all the time. Catenary helps your anchor dig in better, right up until the gale comes and your rode/chain are bar tight. Nylon rode gives you shock absorbtion, which becomes critical when the gale comes and your rode is bar tight. Finally, always anchor with the maximum reasonable scope - it really helps when the gale comes in, and can make the difference between riding it out and...... Cheers, Bob s/y X SAIL R 8
I agree with Carl.
Just got back from Washington and enjoyed the free dockage for a few days. I use about 48 feet of chain with my 20lb Plow. I would definitely add about 200 feet of nylon and use at least 7 to 1 scope in our area. I recently had my Danforth fail to set in the Aligator River with 10 feet of chain and 200 feet of nylon. It was a small danforth but has always held before. It was not fouled but just could not get enough grip to hold in the muck. CQR held almost immediatly. Glad I always carry two anchors. Do not agree with Steve O. You have exactly the right amount of chain. 35 years of boating has me always using this amount on a main anchor. Danforth is offically a lunch hook for now.
Just got back from Washington and enjoyed the free dockage for a few days. I use about 48 feet of chain with my 20lb Plow. I would definitely add about 200 feet of nylon and use at least 7 to 1 scope in our area. I recently had my Danforth fail to set in the Aligator River with 10 feet of chain and 200 feet of nylon. It was a small danforth but has always held before. It was not fouled but just could not get enough grip to hold in the muck. CQR held almost immediatly. Glad I always carry two anchors. Do not agree with Steve O. You have exactly the right amount of chain. 35 years of boating has me always using this amount on a main anchor. Danforth is offically a lunch hook for now.
What about the weight?
Guys....there is no really much room in the anchor locker in the 35.5 and beside with all that weight in chain you'll be lucky to go at 2 knots in a 25 knots wind...any other ideas? Gene
Guys....there is no really much room in the anchor locker in the 35.5 and beside with all that weight in chain you'll be lucky to go at 2 knots in a 25 knots wind...any other ideas? Gene
50' of 5/16" chain weighs 50 pounds...
so if your boat won't sail with 50# in the bow, you better remember to pull up the stern anchor next time you head out of your anchorage. ;D If there isn't any room in your anchor locker, I guess new boats aren't made like they used to.... my '87 H31 has room for a 29# BruceLee anchor, 250' of 5/8" rode and 50' of 5/16" chain, and I reckon I could squeeze in another 300' of chain if I wanted to. But, hey, it's just anchoring, why worry about it, right? Cheers, Bob s/y X SAIL R 8
so if your boat won't sail with 50# in the bow, you better remember to pull up the stern anchor next time you head out of your anchorage. ;D If there isn't any room in your anchor locker, I guess new boats aren't made like they used to.... my '87 H31 has room for a 29# BruceLee anchor, 250' of 5/8" rode and 50' of 5/16" chain, and I reckon I could squeeze in another 300' of chain if I wanted to. But, hey, it's just anchoring, why worry about it, right? Cheers, Bob s/y X SAIL R 8
I got more chain
I had only about 10 feet of chain and dragged too much with the 22 lb danforth and SL Delta for my H 356. I just got 5o' of chain which seems to be working much better. I anchor in up to 15' with just the chain and I'm comfortable with that. We often don't have the swing room in our crowded anchorages for the 7:1 scope Rxed by Chapman's and others. Basically that seems like a pipe dream here. If you put that much scope out I think you would risk riding over someone else's rode.
I had only about 10 feet of chain and dragged too much with the 22 lb danforth and SL Delta for my H 356. I just got 5o' of chain which seems to be working much better. I anchor in up to 15' with just the chain and I'm comfortable with that. We often don't have the swing room in our crowded anchorages for the 7:1 scope Rxed by Chapman's and others. Basically that seems like a pipe dream here. If you put that much scope out I think you would risk riding over someone else's rode.
Need the scope for the Setting
at least. You can always pull in the scope after getting a positive set. But you still need the scope to set it first.
at least. You can always pull in the scope after getting a positive set. But you still need the scope to set it first.
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