Looking into the possibility of installing a windlass...does anyone have recommendations or suggestions as to what, where, how???
Anchor and Windlass P36-2
- Thread starter NancyD
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NancyD,
I assume you are asking about installing a windlass on a Pearson 36-2, not a Hunter.
A vertical-axis windlass needs about twelve inches of "fall" under the windlass to prevent a jam in the windlass. The P36-2 has a very shallow anchor well that does not allow for this. One remedy would be to put a pipe into the well to drop the rode into the locker space in the forepeak.
I have seen one electric vertical-axis windlass on a P36-2 that was mounted inside the foreward cabin but I did not see how the rode was routed into the anchor well. The windlass is on NYSail's boat. You might send him a message through this forum for some insight as to how it works.
West Marine also has some good info in the West Advisor under Anchor Windlasses and Windlass Wiring.
We mounted a manual vertical-axis windlass made by Simson Lawrance that works very well for us on our P36-2. Unfortunatly Lewmar bought S-L and discontinued the manual model. On thie model the rode exits the gypsy without a 90 degree elbow to direct the rode into the well. I coil the rode into the well by hand as I crank the windlass. I know of one person that is now watching Ebay for one. If it were not so hard to post a picture on this new site, I would show you a picture of our installation.
Send me a message with your e-mail address if you want a picture.
Dave
s/v ARIEL
I assume you are asking about installing a windlass on a Pearson 36-2, not a Hunter.
A vertical-axis windlass needs about twelve inches of "fall" under the windlass to prevent a jam in the windlass. The P36-2 has a very shallow anchor well that does not allow for this. One remedy would be to put a pipe into the well to drop the rode into the locker space in the forepeak.
I have seen one electric vertical-axis windlass on a P36-2 that was mounted inside the foreward cabin but I did not see how the rode was routed into the anchor well. The windlass is on NYSail's boat. You might send him a message through this forum for some insight as to how it works.
West Marine also has some good info in the West Advisor under Anchor Windlasses and Windlass Wiring.
We mounted a manual vertical-axis windlass made by Simson Lawrance that works very well for us on our P36-2. Unfortunatly Lewmar bought S-L and discontinued the manual model. On thie model the rode exits the gypsy without a 90 degree elbow to direct the rode into the well. I coil the rode into the well by hand as I crank the windlass. I know of one person that is now watching Ebay for one. If it were not so hard to post a picture on this new site, I would show you a picture of our installation.
Send me a message with your e-mail address if you want a picture.
Dave
s/v ARIEL
Dave,
Yes, this is for a Pearson 36-2. My profile was messed up and somehow thought I have Hunter instead!
What kind of anchor do you use, and do you have a special bow roller setup to hold and secure it?
Yes, this is for a Pearson 36-2. My profile was messed up and somehow thought I have Hunter instead!
What kind of anchor do you use, and do you have a special bow roller setup to hold and secure it?
Dave,
I like that setup! When you are underway, how do you fasten the anchor and keep it off the top of the anchor locker?
I like that setup! When you are underway, how do you fasten the anchor and keep it off the top of the anchor locker?
NancyD,
There are two holes in the anchor roller to fasten the anchor to. In the fifteen plus years that we have had ARIEL we have never tied it in, even while sailing off shore. Now I know this is not good seamanship so don't scold me.
The shank is held in a pin lock fitting to keep the anchor on board as shown in this picture.
The anchor has a slight concave form between the fluke (or plough) and the hinge pin. When the anchor is raised, the roller sit in this concave section. The weight of the anchor has held it in place all these years.
Hope this helps.
Dave
There are two holes in the anchor roller to fasten the anchor to. In the fifteen plus years that we have had ARIEL we have never tied it in, even while sailing off shore. Now I know this is not good seamanship so don't scold me.
The shank is held in a pin lock fitting to keep the anchor on board as shown in this picture.
The anchor has a slight concave form between the fluke (or plough) and the hinge pin. When the anchor is raised, the roller sit in this concave section. The weight of the anchor has held it in place all these years.
Hope this helps.
Dave
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Dave,
Now I see how it works! A pin-lock fitting is what I need to keep the anchor in place. I like your manual windlass setup and will look for a vertical-axis unit to mount in the same way. I am looking forward to easier anchoring next year
One more question - after setting the anchor, do you route the rode through the bow chock and then to the cleat? Does it still come over/through the anchor roller?
Nancy
Now I see how it works! A pin-lock fitting is what I need to keep the anchor in place. I like your manual windlass setup and will look for a vertical-axis unit to mount in the same way. I am looking forward to easier anchoring next year
One more question - after setting the anchor, do you route the rode through the bow chock and then to the cleat? Does it still come over/through the anchor roller?
Nancy
Nancy,
We leave the rode in the roller and then directly to the cleat. I have a long pin to put through the roller fitting to keep the rode from jumping out.
I have tried putting the rode through the chock and then to the cleat to slow the "sailing" at anchor but it made no differance.
Just a note on a previous post, the pin fitting that we have to hold the shank on deck is similar to the "Anchor Lock" shown in both the Defender and West Marine catalogs. Defenders model 000144 is cheaper.
Dave
We leave the rode in the roller and then directly to the cleat. I have a long pin to put through the roller fitting to keep the rode from jumping out.
I have tried putting the rode through the chock and then to the cleat to slow the "sailing" at anchor but it made no differance.
Just a note on a previous post, the pin fitting that we have to hold the shank on deck is similar to the "Anchor Lock" shown in both the Defender and West Marine catalogs. Defenders model 000144 is cheaper.
Dave
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