Anacortes to Victoria BC cruise planning tips

[RJG 26S]

I would like to spend a week this summer sailing from Anacortes, through the San Juan Islands, to Victoria BC, and back. I would leave Anacortes on a Saturday morning and return to Anacortes the following Sunday. I would like to spend two days in Victoria. When would be the best time to go considering weather, crowds, and getting in the best whale watching? Where are the best whale watching areas? I have a Macgregor 26S with an 8hp outboard. While I have an anchor, I don't have experience or confidence to use it overnight yet and would perfer staying in marinas or at mooring buoys.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Bob V]

Lots of correct answers to that question

The San Juans and Gulf Islands are my local cruising grounds and I have been exploring them since 1990 by kayak at first and now in my C42.

I am going to tailor my answer to your to comments about not anchoring and whale watching opportunity.

1. Make your first stop at one of the mooring buoys just south of Blind Island. It is a well protected spot just off the ferry route. Blind Island is a great place to explore and a short dinghy ride from the mooring buoys.

2. Spend the second night at Reid Harbor off Stuart Island. There are many mooring buoys, floating rafts and one dock connected to land. Usually room enough for everyone. It is also a great place to take day trips for whale watching along the west side of San Juan Island. You can head south out of Reid Harbor with the ebb current helping you along down to Lime Kiln Point which is probably the most likely place in the islands to see Orca whales and then when the current starts to flood turn around and have it take you back to Ried Harbor for the second night.

3. Head out of Reid harbor and across the border towards Victoria. You could make that in one day but it might be fun to stay at Sidney Spit where there are mooring buoys to tie up to and the best beach in the area.

4. Victoria marina and sightseeing in town.

5. Back across the border to check in at Roche Harbor and spend the night in the marina.

6. Spencer spit (off Lopez Island) best mooring buoys are south of the spit since ferry wake makes the north side less pleasant for overnighters.

7. Anacortes


http://www.orcanetwork.org/

This link will keep you posted on where the whales are. Another tip regarding whales is look for the bright orange jet boats that usually race around at about 30 knots. If you ever see one going slow there must be whales near by.

 

[nightowle]

awesome!

I'm copying down your suggestions as I'll probably be going that way this summer from Seattle. Thanks much for the guidance.

 

[newly anonymous]

the good thing about Bob's plan...

...is that after a night on the buoys on Spencer Spit you'll decide that the time has finally come to get some proper ground tackle and learn how to use it.

 

[Bob V]

You've got a point there newly

but at least I didn't suggest the buoys NE of James Island or off Pelican Beach NE of Cypress Island. All three of those places can really rock you to sleep.

One of my first trips to the San Juans in a real sailboat was a McGreagor 26 (old style). The boat was rolling in the swell making the rudder and the centerboard bang back and forth. My solution was to retract the centerboard and lift the rudder out of the water. After that it looked like I might be in danger of getting my spreaders wet.

We escaped to shore for a few hours of stability and shared a campfire with some kayakers on the beach. At one point one of them pointed to our little Mac and commented that someone is going to have a tough time sleeping out there. I mentioned that it was our boat and that was the reason we were hanging out on shore.

Spencer Spit can be ok on the south side in light or north winds but you don't want to be there in a strong southerly, that's for sure.

 

[newly anonymous]

don't take it as a criticism, Bob

...is that after a night on the buoys on Spencer Spit you'll decide that the time has finally come to get some proper ground tackle and learn how to use it.

You were given design parameters that precluded the possibility of a really really great cruise in those parts.

And the cruise you recommended, regardless, makes for a good week on a boat. (Best part is it keeps the uninitiated away from the really choice anchorages.)

Not that I haven't had some amazing evenings in places like Roach Harbor or Sidney Spit.

 

[RJG 26S]

Choice Anchorages?

Newly,

Where would you say the "choice" anchorages are?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Bob V]

If you had mentioned anchoring as an option

I would have been sure to point out that instead of spending two nights at Reid Harbor to be in the best place for whale watching opportunities you should anchor one of those nights in Garrison Bay off San Juan Island.

It is the site of English Camp (48* 35.196' N 123* 09.513' W). Google Pig War for a bit of the historical background. It is a very well protected anchorage with shallow water and good holding. Lots of opportunities for interesting hikes on shore and if you feel energetic you can hike to the top of a small mountain for a great view of the islands.

I forgot to mention that if you do stay at Reid Harbor a hike to Turn Point Light house is well worth the sweat equity. It is also a great place for whale watching.

 

[Les]

There are a lot of good suggestions for Bob and I really do not have any complaints with them. I do have an alternative plan. I've gone around and entered Victoria harbor--it is beautiful with the hotel there and the government buildings that light up at night.....however... (there is always a however or but) I would suggest staying a Sidney and renting a car to visit all those places that are too far from the harbor like Bouchard Gardens, etc. Even with a MacGregor 26 it is a long run around to Victoria Harbor. And Sidney is a great little town as well. Some great bakeries. Have a good trip. And happy holidays....

 

[John Nantz]

Important: Clear Customs going and coming

Bob - be sure to clear through Customs going and coming.

For the return trip it'll cost you, I think, $25 to clear into the US. They may have raised this fee. And, it's better to buy the "decal" ahead of time as US Customs doesn't like to take the "Legal Tender, good for all debts public and private"!

I agree with the comment, give the little time you have and the potential for adverse wind and currents, Victoria is probably a difficult destination to attain. It's almost always "upwind" during the summer from the San Juans.

Renting a car from Sidney is a good option as the Airport is located there and car rentals should be easy. There is also public bus transportation from Sidney that'll get you into Victoria but other destinations would take some consultation with bus schedules and routes. Also, in the last few years the port in Victoria discovered there is money to be had in slip rentals. They used to be the best kept secret, price wise, but those days are gone. Sidney transient moorage is also expensive.

Ground tackle: Given the winds can be really strong at times I'd get a good and heavy anchor with chain. Don't know what your physical strength capabilities are but a plow in the 30#+ range with, say, 25 to 35 feet of chain would help you to sleep better at night. The heavy anchor is to get past the kelp and into most bottom types. The wind can really blow at times and then there are the current issues (strength and ebbing & flooding - the anchor needs to reset itself).

Good Canadian Customs clearing points are available at Pender Hbr and Sidney. Be sure to have all the proper documentation along and I believe passports are required. At least that's what I use.

Time-wise I'd be my preference to avoid the end of July, Fogust, and September up to Labor Day and opt for earlier in the year, say, May and June. The days are longer which allows time to get places, the crowds are much smaller, and the winds tend not to be the blustery inland-heat-generated type, fewer forest fires creating dirty air, and more snow on the mountain tops. For some reason, it seems, Memorial Day often has very light winds.

You mentioned Seattle at one point, but you are going to launch in Anacortes, right? Blaine may be another potential launch point. Check for car and trailer parking.

 

[RJG 26S]

All,

This forum is great. I really appreciate your time in helping me and others learn more about options and things to be aware of for cruising these spectacularly beautiful waters. I have sailed the South Sound a couple of times between Des Moines, Filucy Bay, and around Vashon Island and would like to see something new.

I do want to augment my ground tackle and gain more confidence in its use. All I currently have is a single 20-25# danforth with 15' of chain and about 100' of line. I do have an anchor alarm on my GPS, but would rather have a stronger bite and not have to deal with getting underway at 3:00 am and having monkey around trying to reset the anchor.

Unfortunately I have some more time to figure out the trip (I am looking outside at over a foot of snow with temperatures in the teens.) I definitely need to plan this trip well since I would like to make cruises like this an annual event and not be told by my semi-reluctant crew that they will pass on the next trip or worse never hear the end of the miserable week on "that boat"

Thanks!!!

Bob

 

[Guest]

Additional tips

Hi Bob, in addition to all the good comments I would recommend the following:

1. If you want to anchor add at least another 200 feet of rope.

2. Danforth anchors set and hold well in these mostly mud and sand bottoms.

3. Purchase a 15 pound lead fishing ball and a large SS carabiner. After you set the anchor clip on the carabiner to the rope and let it slide down to the rope to chain shackle. This helps with catenary and keeps the anchor from slipping.

 

[Bob V]

The most dangerous thing to take along

would be a tight schedule that does not allow you to wait out bad weather. It is one thing to not have time to get to your chosen destination but to feel compelled to head home in weather that you are uncomfortable with can lead to a big problem.

You will be crossing Rosario Strait and Haro Strait (twice each) on this one week trip. These two straits are not as challenging as the big two in the area which are Juan de Fuca and the Strait of Georgia but still this is relatively big water and not to be taken likely.

For best results toss out the tight schedule and add a week. Also be flexible in regards to changing your planned destination as conditions warrrant and don't forget to have your tidal info on board whether it be tide charts or software. In these waters, it pays to go with the flow. Also our 10 - 12 ft tidal range is something to consider if you do decide to use that anchor.

 

[John Nantz]

Pleasing the S.O.

Years ago I was told, suggested strongly, that to please the S.O. I should spend two nights at each anchorage. For a "Captain" that is in a new area for the first time this can be really hard to do, but, many of them like it. Given a week this doesn't allow for very much exploring but it's something to consider. S.O.s also tend to like places to go ashore and, uh..., shop. Or at least walk around.

Go early in year: hauling the boat and trailer over one of the passses later in the year could cause overheating problems. Leaving earlier in the year when temperatures are cooler can reduce this problem. (okay, I keep plugging to go early).

Ground tackle: going during peak season means one might have to anchor in deeper water which means a lot more scope. A heavier anchor would really help.

Also, kelp really likes the 20 to 30 or 35 foot depth and a Danforth can have difficulty getting set or reseting. Winds can change between night and day and the tides definitely do.

Avoid Cattle Pass this trip. The wrong conditions will scare the you-know-what out of your S.O.

What the previous poster mentioned about rough conditions in Rosario is true. Don Douglas, the guy who writes books about the Inside Passage, said he experienced his worst-ever experience between Rosario Passage and Anacortes, and that is only a couple miles or so long.

 

[Bob V]

I was concerned about your schedule being a bit tight and ending up a long way from your boat trailer with a short time to get there. I've done a little laptop navigation and checked the tide tables so that I can give you a better plan than the one that I first suggested.

The key to this plan is that you cover the greatest distance on the first day and take small steps back to the trailer. If you find that the conditions are not good for the long trip to Victoria on the first day you should make an alternate plan to cruise the San Juans for the week instead of exposing your ship and crew to uncomfortable or dangerous conditions.

I assume that you are leaving from the Cap Sante Marina in Anacortes and not the Washington Park Boat ramp. Your trip will be shorter if you leave from the park ramp but there is a higher probability of your car being vandalized while you are gone for a week.

If you leave from Cap Sante and head West and then South down Rosario Strait to the Strait of Juan de Fuca and then West to Victoria for the first leg of your trip, you will cover a distance of 34 nm. With the ebb tide helping you for the first part of your trip you can make great time. My wife and I used to make 26 mile day trips in our double kayak along this same route and then up to Friday Harbor all the time and our cruising speed was 3 knots not counting the tidal current boost.

On August 8th for example the high slack is at sunrise (0607) and the current will be flowing with you until low slack at 1235. That's just under 6.5 hours of good speed. You will probably be at your destination by then and ready for a rest.

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE UNLESS THE WEATHER IS EXCELLENT. A strong west wind blowing against the ebb will make this an unpleasant trip in a light weight boat like the M26. In the big water you should travel as early in the day as possible to avoid potentially high winds in the afternoon regardless of how good the weather is.

After the long crossing, your crew deserves 2 nights in Victoria for R & R.

The 3rd day of your trip could take you to Roche Harbor where you can check in with customs and buy fuel. It is cheaper in the US than Canada. It is 18 nm to Roche Harbor if you go the long way by heading staight to Lime Kiln Point and close to the shore of San Juan Island. The whales often travel close to shore here. Take the route along the outside rather than Mosquito Pass around Henry Island and then East into Spieden Channel to Roche for best whale watching opportunities.

On day 4 you have many choices. If you want to try out that anchor in an easy location head south down Mosquito Pass to Garrisson Bay or head north across Spieden Channel to Reid Harbor at Stuart Island if you prefer a mooring buoy. Either destination is such a short trip that you barely have warmed up your engine if you motor the whole way. You may want to do some day sailing in Haro Strait or get to the destination early and do some hiking. The hike to Turn Point Lighthouse on Stuart is worth the trip and Garrisson Bay also has interesting places to visit ashore.

Day 5 could take you to Friday Harbor if you want to visit another marina with an interesting town attached. Blind Island near the ferry landing on Shaw is a great place to swing on the mooring buoy or use your anchor again.

I would skip Spencer Spit on this trip because it is nothing special compared to the other places and can be a rough nights sleep if the weather turns bad. This leaves days 6 and 7 unscheduled but you should probably spend two nights at one of those locations and/or a night at Anacortes before you drive off for home.

This plan also leaves you the option of sitting out bad weather because only the first day is a long one and you could make it all the way to Anacortes from Roche in one day if you had to.

 

[H. Hey]

Ground tackle

Hi Folks,

I stumbled across this thread as I was looking into Victoria as a possible stopover on my Mid August Cruise. I'm excited to be cruising the san juans. I've done a fair amount of cruising although never in the San Juans, and have anchoring experience in a variety of conditions.

When I spoke to the charter company they told me that most folks are anchoring 4:1 or maybe 5:1 out there. A friend (and sailing author) in Bellingham also said the same thing.

He said that it is because the holding is sticky mud and that at night time it is usually calm enough to not be a problem.

Now, after reading here about some of the nighttime conditions, I have to ask again about scope. This boat will be a Beneteau 43 with a danforth and chain rode.

Thoughts?

Also, in general, does nobody usually stay in victoria on a slip? I couldn't find much information on it and the few times I've been to victoria, I didn't see a lot of cruisers. Perhaps is prohibitively expensive.

Thanks for your thoughts!

Henry Hey - NYC.

 

[Tom Spohn]

I have cruised these waters in our 26 ft Mac and our current boat a 35' Schock. I think you would have more fun if you stayed in the San Juans and left Canada for another trip--which is highly recommended when you have more time.

Launch at Anacortes and head up between Blakely and Guemes if current with you. If not go through Thatcher Pass keeping a close eye out for ferries. Spend first night at Deer Harbor and swim in the pool and enjoy the great restaurants. If you insist on anchoring keep going the short extra distance to Jones Island and anchor or tie up at the dock if you get there early. Lots of trails to explore and dwarf deer to watch. Next day head up to Stuart passing Spieden at its western end. Both harbors are excellent. Hike over to the lighthouse; buy some t-shirts at the school and sleep well. The holding is excellent. From Stuart head on down directly to Garrison Bay avoiding the temptation to cut across the channel markers. Anchor in the Bay and dinghy ashore to visit the English Camp. We like to dinghy from here (you will need an outboard) back to Roche Harbor and catch the bus into Friday Harbor. Visit the whale museum, do some shopping, and have a dinner on the waterfront. Roche Harbor is also worth some exploring and the hike to the mausoleum is required! I would recommend two days in this location. From Garrison go back around Roche and head through the Wasp Islands (Watching for ferries) and tie up at Fisherman Bay. Hike into town to shop or eat. Pull up the centerboard going in or out and watch the depth. From Fisherman Bay (on Lopez) we like Blakely Marina. Not much to do except relax, take on some fuel, have a cold one and get a good nights sleep. Next day head back through Peavine Pass and back to Anacortes--being careful to time your trip to go with the current. Remember the current flows the opposite way from the rest of Puget Sound. I would have recommended Rosario as a stop, but the place was just sold and there is not that much to do there now.

We love Canada, but I feel that is at least a two week trip all by itself.

 

[RJG 26S]

All,

We just got back from our week long adventure 7/12 through 7/19. We modified our cruise to stay within the San Juans.

Day 1: We departed from Moses Lake a bit later than planned and after a couple of stops along the way to pick up a Crab trap and Shell Fish Licenses plus a few other things, we arrived at Skyline Marina in Anacortes. After loading the boat, pumping up the dinghy, getting slung into the water, we were finally underway at around 4:00 PM. The weather was the worst of the trip with some very light rain that stopped just as we arrived at Spencer Spit. We spent the night on a State Park buoy.

Day 2: Sailed / Motored to Stuart Island and got another State Park buoy. It was a bit overcast in the morning through the afternoon. We hiked to the school and then to the Turn Point Lighthouse. It was a very fun hike. My crew enjoyed the unexpected tree swing attached to a maple tree. The view at Turn Point was spectacular.

Day 3: From this point of the trip through the rest, we essentially had nothing but blue skies We motored around the north end of Stuart Island to get a view of Turn Point from the water. Sailed to Lime Kiln Lighthouse with the hopes of seeing whales. No whales :cry: but the sailing was great:dance:. From there we motored to Roche Harbor and stayed at the marina.

Day 4: We sailed back to the Lime Kiln Lighthouse with one more attempt at finding whales. It was just like the previous day with great weather, great sailing, but no whales. We motored to Garrison Bay and decided to try our first night at anchor. With the muddy bottom and light winds we had no problem. With the crab season just open, we set our trap (we got a folding crab trap, while it was a bit expensive - around $150 from a major marine retailer, it was essential with the limited storage space on my Macgregor 26S. The trap's frame is two circular stainless steel cables. To stow it, you place a tie strap around the middle and twist the loops into doubled over smaller loops. The trap goes from about 3' diameter down to about 18" making it small enough to store in the aft locker.) We took the dinghy ashore for a steak bbq and returned to the boat and found two male crabs large enough to keep. We re-baited the trap and turned in for the evening.

Day 5: We woke to find 8 large male crabs and no females in the trap! We motored over to Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island and set anchor. We had arranged a guided kayaking trip and they picked us up from the marina and drove us to the south end of the Island. The kayaking was a blast. It was a different perspective being right on the water and paddling through very shallow water and into a couple of caves. We saw lots of starfish and jellyfish.

Day 6: One keeper crab caught over night. We motored over to Friday Harbor and set anchor again. We rented some bikes and rode down to False Bay. Lots of hills, but a very beautiful ride.

Day 7: Sailed to Blind Bay on Shaw Island. With the three State Park mooring buoys taken, we had a difficult time finding a good anchorage close to Blind Island. The winds were a bit stronger and I wanted to minimize the distance that I had to paddle the dinghy - next year I will get a small motor. After another bbq on land, we moved further south into the bay and anchored along with about 60 others. In the evening it was fun to watch the ferries steam by with all their lights. At around midnight, I came out of the cabin for a look around and was amazed with the sight. The water was as smooth as glass and all the anchor lights were reflecting undistorted off the water. The sky was brilliantly lit with stars and the Milky Way.

Day 8: Motored back to Skyline marina and returned to life on the land:cry:

This was an incredible trip:dance:. We saw lots of beautiful sights, enjoyed the sailing, and caught more crabs than we could eat. We had a blast! The tips provided on this forum helped us plan a great trip- thank you very much!

Bob

 

[Guest]

Trip

Hi Bob, thank you for posting your trip report. Very nice read and I'm glad you had a great time. So much to see and do. Perhaps another trip will line you up with the Orca gods. On one of our trips by Lime Kiln we stopped and let a pod of 40 Orcas pass right through us, close enough to touch with a boat hook.

Terry Cox

 

[Bob V]

Glad to hear it Bob

sounds like you had a very good introduction to the San Juans and you have noticed by now that it is not a place to rush through on your way to the Gulf Islands.

Next time maybe you can arrange to take a month and visit both places.