Ammeter replacement questions

[jonelli]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I really appreciate it. I like getting all the advice here because even though I think I know what I want to do, it helps to hear what else I should worry about or why to do it a different way than I thought.

For example, while you guys were replying on this yesterday, I already installed the new digital meter. I calibrated it first before I installed it. I know the voltage is super accurate, and I tried to get the current as close as I could to my BK meter using various devices, small 12v heaters, fans, etc. I didn't have anything really good that has a large static load to measure before installing it. It seems close enough.
But, I DID install it on the NEGATIVE side. I have a single 12 gauge negative wire coming from the batteries going straight to the negative buss on the breaker panel. It SHOULD capture everything on that panel, so I'm not sure I need to move it to the positive side now.

But it did also make me wonder how my windless gets it's negative connection. It clearly has a 4ga positive wire on it's own 90A breaker. I don't think the 12ga negative wire is feeding that. But it would be good to know.

Also, I'm not an electronic newb, I know basic electronics, enough to be dangerous. Here's how I always tried to describe Voltage/Current/Resistance, funny it's also water-related!

Voltage, Current, Resistance, and Ohm's Law - SparkFun Learn

learn.sparkfun.com

 

[jonelli]

1/0 is a great way to upgrade your boat. Might I suggest MRBF fuses at the battery also. A 200A fuse can still start your boat and still prevent that wire from turning into an arc welder burning a hole in the boat.

I meant to install one of those and kind of forgot about it then I couldn't remember what they were called. Thanks for reminding me, I just ordered one for the connection to Batt#1 Positive.

 

[mikeracca]

The purpose of the colors is to prevent confusion. Red = DC Positive. Black = AC Neutral or DC ground. Yellow= DC ground , white = AC hot, Green = AC ground. yellow is preferred for DC ground over black to avoid confusion between AC & DC.

Les

One minor correction here:

Black = AC Hot
White. = AC Neutral.

This is why Yellow and not black is recommended for DC Negative to prevent confusion.

 

[jonelli]

Okay I replaced the 12ga negative that went from the battery to breaker panel with 8ga, rewired some of the positive terminal blocks to not be all stacked up, installed a 200A MRB fuse on the battery1 and installed the new ammeter in the wooden panel below the breaker panel. And I replaced one of the On/Off Carling switches that was intermittent I haven’t removed the old ammeter yet but it’s out of the circuit now

 

[jviss]

The purpose of the colors is to prevent confusion. Red = DC Positive. Black = AC Neutral or DC ground. Yellow= DC ground , white = AC hot, Green = AC ground. yellow is preferred for DC ground over black to avoid confusion between AC & DC.

Talk about preventing confusion! How about just now sowing confusion? (What's wrong with the above quote?)

 

[mikeracca]

Talk about preventing confusion! How about just now sowing confusion? (What's wrong with the above quote?)

Yup, I realized the confusion and already posted a correction.