The Ammeter in my cockpit hasn't ever seemed to work properly. The needle barely moves off zero in the center. I have made a schematic of my boats wiring (see picture) and I am very puzzled about how the ammeter is wired. The boat originally had only one battery bank then later a second was added along with Split Charge Diodes (before I bought it). The way its wired now it seems the ammeter is in parallel with the SCDs. The wiring to the meter is fairly heavy, probably #10 gauge so I think before the SCDs were added all of the charging/discharging current went through the meter. What do you think? Is it wired correctly? Thanks
Ammeter - Is it Wired Correctly?
- Thread starter Phiggins
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Looks to me that it's wired like my 69 Camaro.
My console amp meter quit showing much when I moved my batterys to the trunk and had to connect a charge wire from the bulkhead connector to the solenoid battery stud. But you don't care about that. What you have done is to place the amp meter (ammeter) so that it is on a sidetrack of the same circuit. Juice is not forced through it but is free to travel down the track of least resistance; from your diodes (if that's an isolator, get rid of those things)then to the selector switch and to the banks. And why is a ground shown on the ammeter? Must be for a light bulb. Cool drawing, did you make it?
My console amp meter quit showing much when I moved my batterys to the trunk and had to connect a charge wire from the bulkhead connector to the solenoid battery stud. But you don't care about that. What you have done is to place the amp meter (ammeter) so that it is on a sidetrack of the same circuit. Juice is not forced through it but is free to travel down the track of least resistance; from your diodes (if that's an isolator, get rid of those things)then to the selector switch and to the banks. And why is a ground shown on the ammeter? Must be for a light bulb. Cool drawing, did you make it?Visio
Yes I made it with Microsoft VISIO. I made it because I want to get rid of the Split Charge Diodes and put in an Echo Charger. Actually I just finished rewiring it today. Also put in: new charger , new selector switch, battery switch (couldn't find room for three battery switches), solenoid for glow plugs and a bypass switch for the regulator diode, Link 20 Battery monitor. Here is what it looks like now, I added some wires that I didn't have in the original diagram:
Yes I made it with Microsoft VISIO. I made it because I want to get rid of the Split Charge Diodes and put in an Echo Charger. Actually I just finished rewiring it today. Also put in: new charger , new selector switch, battery switch (couldn't find room for three battery switches), solenoid for glow plugs and a bypass switch for the regulator diode, Link 20 Battery monitor. Here is what it looks like now, I added some wires that I didn't have in the original diagram:
You're in Great Shape Now
With the Link 20 you've got the best system to monitor your batteries and charging system. Nice job - what kind of boat?
With the Link 20 you've got the best system to monitor your batteries and charging system. Nice job - what kind of boat?
Ammeter / Wiring Harness
Phiggins If you have a Catalina and you still have an ammeter in the cockpit, you may have still have the old wiring harness, which should be replaced asap, like, immediately. Any ?s, do a Forum Archives search on Wiring harness and you'll learn all about it. Well described on the C27 Assoc. website. Nice job on the sketch and the elect design! Stu
Phiggins If you have a Catalina and you still have an ammeter in the cockpit, you may have still have the old wiring harness, which should be replaced asap, like, immediately. Any ?s, do a Forum Archives search on Wiring harness and you'll learn all about it. Well described on the C27 Assoc. website. Nice job on the sketch and the elect design! Stu
I don't understand it
Why is it that you post something on 3/29 at 01:46 PM with a wiring diagram and asking, Gee is this correct? Then on 3/29 at 02:23PM (same day 1/2 hour later) you post another wiring diagram and say you just finished re-wiring it and added lots of new stuff. It certainly appears that BEFORE you posted the initial diagram you had already re-designed your electrical system (therefore not caring about feedback from your post), purchased the components, installed them and updated your old diagram to reflect your changes all before your first post. Why would you do that other than the first post enabled you a platform to demonstrate your electrical prowess, I guess. Of course I am basing this all on the date and time of the posts, but I don't think we can blame it on Phil. Am I missing something??????????????? Rich
Why is it that you post something on 3/29 at 01:46 PM with a wiring diagram and asking, Gee is this correct? Then on 3/29 at 02:23PM (same day 1/2 hour later) you post another wiring diagram and say you just finished re-wiring it and added lots of new stuff. It certainly appears that BEFORE you posted the initial diagram you had already re-designed your electrical system (therefore not caring about feedback from your post), purchased the components, installed them and updated your old diagram to reflect your changes all before your first post. Why would you do that other than the first post enabled you a platform to demonstrate your electrical prowess, I guess. Of course I am basing this all on the date and time of the posts, but I don't think we can blame it on Phil. Am I missing something??????????????? Rich
Because...
I wanted someone else to confirm that the ammeter was wired wrong in the original setup. I was wondering what I should do about it in my new setup. Should I leave it connected as it was or not. After studying the way it was wired I came to the conclusion that it might have been wired incorrectly since I got the boat. I suspect who ever put in the split charge diodes did not realize the other path through the ammeter existed.
I wanted someone else to confirm that the ammeter was wired wrong in the original setup. I was wondering what I should do about it in my new setup. Should I leave it connected as it was or not. After studying the way it was wired I came to the conclusion that it might have been wired incorrectly since I got the boat. I suspect who ever put in the split charge diodes did not realize the other path through the ammeter existed.
An "A" and an "F""
TT, your right, OK he gets an A for his diagrammatcal skills, but an F on his charade of misleading everyone to thinking he really cared about feedback. That "1/2 hour" gave him away. With all of his electronic skills you think he would have realilzed he should have built in a respectable 24 hour delay timer for his second post to avoid the obvious. Rich
TT, your right, OK he gets an A for his diagrammatcal skills, but an F on his charade of misleading everyone to thinking he really cared about feedback. That "1/2 hour" gave him away. With all of his electronic skills you think he would have realilzed he should have built in a respectable 24 hour delay timer for his second post to avoid the obvious. Rich
Wiring Harness again
Phiggins: doesn't matter what manufacturer of boat you have, but you should really look into the wiring harness issue, since other boats have been wired the same way Catalina did theirs, which is a problem as I mentioned above. Nice job on the diagrams. Rich - *box I understand how you feel, but now you know how I feel when people complain when I ask them to do their own "homework" first. Happy Wiring to All. Stu
Phiggins: doesn't matter what manufacturer of boat you have, but you should really look into the wiring harness issue, since other boats have been wired the same way Catalina did theirs, which is a problem as I mentioned above. Nice job on the diagrams. Rich - *box I understand how you feel, but now you know how I feel when people complain when I ask them to do their own "homework" first.
Happy Wiring to All. StuRich...
I don't know what your problem is. I posted the original question to get an answer. So far nobody, except perhaps Fred who sorta agrees, has said whether the ammeter was wired wrong or not. You see here is my dilemma: I have done a major rewire of the boat. One would assume that it was wired correctly before. But the circuit to ammeter, should I leave it in or not? The boat is presently on the hard. When I relaunch it will it start or will the batteries charge from the alternator if I don't have that circuit in? I do have a background in electonics but I'm not an expert on boat wiring. Stu: can you direct me to the site that you mention. What exactly is the issue with the wiring harness? Thanks
I don't know what your problem is. I posted the original question to get an answer. So far nobody, except perhaps Fred who sorta agrees, has said whether the ammeter was wired wrong or not. You see here is my dilemma: I have done a major rewire of the boat. One would assume that it was wired correctly before. But the circuit to ammeter, should I leave it in or not? The boat is presently on the hard. When I relaunch it will it start or will the batteries charge from the alternator if I don't have that circuit in? I do have a background in electonics but I'm not an expert on boat wiring. Stu: can you direct me to the site that you mention. What exactly is the issue with the wiring harness? Thanks
Back to basics
Use a water pipe analogy. Voltmeters measure "pressure", therefore may be mounted parallel to main battery line out. Ammeters measure "volume" therfore to be accurate, EVERY electron of electricity going into and out of the battery bank (with the exception of the starter motor) must go through the ammeter for the meter to be accurate. If this is not the case, the meter is usless.
Use a water pipe analogy. Voltmeters measure "pressure", therefore may be mounted parallel to main battery line out. Ammeters measure "volume" therfore to be accurate, EVERY electron of electricity going into and out of the battery bank (with the exception of the starter motor) must go through the ammeter for the meter to be accurate. If this is not the case, the meter is usless.
Wright thanks for the reply.
I guess you are are saying its not wired properly. I agree partly with what you say but consider the LINK20 in my new diagram. It measures amperage by measuring the voltage drop across the shunts. Suppose in the old diagram the ammeter was actually a voltmeter measuring the voltage drop across the split charge diodes to derive the amperage. If it was, it would be wired correctly.
I guess you are are saying its not wired properly. I agree partly with what you say but consider the LINK20 in my new diagram. It measures amperage by measuring the voltage drop across the shunts. Suppose in the old diagram the ammeter was actually a voltmeter measuring the voltage drop across the split charge diodes to derive the amperage. If it was, it would be wired correctly.
An ammeter is really just
a voltmeter measuring the very small voltage drop across a known small resistance within the circuit measured. A diode will not work as a shunt. The original circuit will not give a correct current reading. The new circuit, however, looks correct in that regard.
a voltmeter measuring the very small voltage drop across a known small resistance within the circuit measured. A diode will not work as a shunt. The original circuit will not give a correct current reading. The new circuit, however, looks correct in that regard.
Harness Info
Ph The old link to the C27 "unofficial" website shows that it has gone away. Bummer, since the old unofficial site was very good and had all the harness info. I have it in a zip file I could email to you. How do we get in touch without "going public?" Stu
Ph The old link to the C27 "unofficial" website shows that it has gone away. Bummer, since the old unofficial site was very good and had all the harness info. I have it in a zip file I could email to you. How do we get in touch without "going public?" Stu
Stu...
send it to phiggins@hp.com and thanks very much. Patrick: thanks for confirming that the original wiring was wrong.
send it to phiggins@hp.com and thanks very much. Patrick: thanks for confirming that the original wiring was wrong.
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