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I think so
just like starters are different for boats than cars. I am not sure about the details but I have been told that they are very different.
just like starters are different for boats than cars. I am not sure about the details but I have been told that they are very different.
spark arrestors
Harol: I think the only difference is spark suppression. I do not know if they worry about this on diesel engines, but it is of concern on gasoline engines. I worked for Mallory Electric many years ago. We made distributors for Mercury Marine and several other mfg. The put micro screens in the distributors as spark arrestors.
Harol: I think the only difference is spark suppression. I do not know if they worry about this on diesel engines, but it is of concern on gasoline engines. I worked for Mallory Electric many years ago. We made distributors for Mercury Marine and several other mfg. The put micro screens in the distributors as spark arrestors.
Alternators
The only difference in alternators it the litte screens the put in them to stop any sparks from escaping. I am fairly sure the same holds true for starters, but not so sure.If you have a diesel, don't think you need a marine alternator, but with gas you certainly do, and if you have a gas powered engine and something should happen with no marine approved aternator, I would think that you might have a problem collecting any insurance at all.
The only difference in alternators it the litte screens the put in them to stop any sparks from escaping. I am fairly sure the same holds true for starters, but not so sure.If you have a diesel, don't think you need a marine alternator, but with gas you certainly do, and if you have a gas powered engine and something should happen with no marine approved aternator, I would think that you might have a problem collecting any insurance at all.
What you want is a different regulator
The size of the alternator depends on your amp usage and how fast you need to replace it. The general rule of thumb is that you should be able to replace the amps you use for 1 day in about an hour of running the engine. What is more important than the size of the alternator is having an external 3-stage regulator. Normal alternators are internally regulated with automotive regulators. These are designed to quickly replace amps used to start the engine, then shut off. This charging cycle can kill deep-cycle batteries through overcharging. A 3-stage regulator will control the input of amps to what the batteries can accept at a given time. They will recharge the batteries to 80% full quicker than a normal regulator, then will slow down the rate of charge to "pack in" the last 20%. Once full, the regulator switches to a float mode which keeps the amp input very low to just maintaint he charge. As for the cost of a new Balmar there are alternatives. There is a place in Maine that sells a 90-amp Motorola-type alternator for decent money. Also, you might check with some of the power specialists like Hamilton Ferris or Jack Rabbit Marine. Best thing to do to prepare for this is to take a good inventory of your typical and peak amp usage and determine how many amps you need to replace. These numbers are very important for designing your battery system. Good luck, Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560
The size of the alternator depends on your amp usage and how fast you need to replace it. The general rule of thumb is that you should be able to replace the amps you use for 1 day in about an hour of running the engine. What is more important than the size of the alternator is having an external 3-stage regulator. Normal alternators are internally regulated with automotive regulators. These are designed to quickly replace amps used to start the engine, then shut off. This charging cycle can kill deep-cycle batteries through overcharging. A 3-stage regulator will control the input of amps to what the batteries can accept at a given time. They will recharge the batteries to 80% full quicker than a normal regulator, then will slow down the rate of charge to "pack in" the last 20%. Once full, the regulator switches to a float mode which keeps the amp input very low to just maintaint he charge. As for the cost of a new Balmar there are alternatives. There is a place in Maine that sells a 90-amp Motorola-type alternator for decent money. Also, you might check with some of the power specialists like Hamilton Ferris or Jack Rabbit Marine. Best thing to do to prepare for this is to take a good inventory of your typical and peak amp usage and determine how many amps you need to replace. These numbers are very important for designing your battery system. Good luck, Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560
You can make your own high capacity alternator
except for that damn Yanmar mount. That's the hard part. The Balmar (and other brands) use an automotive frame (usually GM) and weld-up a custom bracket to it. The internals are stock stuff. They don't even have a regulator anymore. Those are external now. The rule to follow in building your own is to only use quality stuff, like bearings. A good shop can weld up a mounting bracket if you give them your stock Hitachi but thats another $$$ add-on. I would check ebay first. My Balmar hasn't had Balmar stuff for 13 years. The mounting bracket has been re-welded because of wear (too loose once) and the front bearing is now epoxied into its' mount because the case started to 'egg shape'. The regulator is now external and the rectifier is from a large frame alternator that uses no solder between the diodes. The only way that could be done is to remove the rectifier from the alternator and locate it next to the regulator in the equipment room. And that meant a blower and box was needed,,,and that meant a blower speed control,,,WHEW! But it works great. A description of this setup is on my web site below this photo #53 P.S. Les, good scoop but I think the reason automotive regulators are poor for deep cycle battery banks is because they return amperage at too SLOW of a rate so as to work with non-hardened car-start duty batteries. Deep cycles take a licking so the acceptance stage of a 3 stage regulator can pack in the amps. Then shut down. The second and third stage isn't used for gunk-holing. That wastes engine run time. The batteries are topped off after the cruise or on a long motor passage if the need arises.
except for that damn Yanmar mount. That's the hard part. The Balmar (and other brands) use an automotive frame (usually GM) and weld-up a custom bracket to it. The internals are stock stuff. They don't even have a regulator anymore. Those are external now. The rule to follow in building your own is to only use quality stuff, like bearings. A good shop can weld up a mounting bracket if you give them your stock Hitachi but thats another $$$ add-on. I would check ebay first. My Balmar hasn't had Balmar stuff for 13 years. The mounting bracket has been re-welded because of wear (too loose once) and the front bearing is now epoxied into its' mount because the case started to 'egg shape'. The regulator is now external and the rectifier is from a large frame alternator that uses no solder between the diodes. The only way that could be done is to remove the rectifier from the alternator and locate it next to the regulator in the equipment room. And that meant a blower and box was needed,,,and that meant a blower speed control,,,WHEW! But it works great. A description of this setup is on my web site below this photo #53 P.S. Les, good scoop but I think the reason automotive regulators are poor for deep cycle battery banks is because they return amperage at too SLOW of a rate so as to work with non-hardened car-start duty batteries. Deep cycles take a licking so the acceptance stage of a 3 stage regulator can pack in the amps. Then shut down. The second and third stage isn't used for gunk-holing. That wastes engine run time. The batteries are topped off after the cruise or on a long motor passage if the need arises.
I think Auto Alts are gas-driven.
I have been told that an alternator for a gas engine (auto) and the alternator for a boat (if diesel) need to run at different rpm's in order to generate power. This is the difference between an auto and a boat alternator. *! Gas engines run at higher rpm's than diesels. Can anybody confirm that?
I have been told that an alternator for a gas engine (auto) and the alternator for a boat (if diesel) need to run at different rpm's in order to generate power. This is the difference between an auto and a boat alternator. *! Gas engines run at higher rpm's than diesels. Can anybody confirm that?
Check with your Insurance carrier first
There is a significant difference between marin and automotive starters and generators. Mostly, it has to do with spark supression, but also corrosion. Marine alternators have stainless or inconel bearings, automotives don't have to have them. Funny thing though, if you replace your marine generator with an automotive type, and there is a loss on your boat, the first thing the adjustor looks at is your alternator. Check your policy, they don't have to pay off, if you replaced your marine parts with automotive parts. Always best to read the fine print. Paul
There is a significant difference between marin and automotive starters and generators. Mostly, it has to do with spark supression, but also corrosion. Marine alternators have stainless or inconel bearings, automotives don't have to have them. Funny thing though, if you replace your marine generator with an automotive type, and there is a loss on your boat, the first thing the adjustor looks at is your alternator. Check your policy, they don't have to pay off, if you replaced your marine parts with automotive parts. Always best to read the fine print. Paul
Wait a minute ... diesel boat engines are
the same as diesel tractor engines ... or do we have that wrong ... Isn't that where we get our cheap parts? v
the same as diesel tractor engines ... or do we have that wrong ... Isn't that where we get our cheap parts? v
Paul ... my ford taurus likes to cruise about
2200 revs ... my boat diesel likes 2400 ... don't think the engine speed means much .... except that gas engines can max out about twice the revs as diesel. But the cruise range seems pretty even. That's mostly the reason you have a different tack for diesel motors vs. gas. Gas tack will go to 7-9, diesel to 4? v
2200 revs ... my boat diesel likes 2400 ... don't think the engine speed means much .... except that gas engines can max out about twice the revs as diesel. But the cruise range seems pretty even. That's mostly the reason you have a different tack for diesel motors vs. gas. Gas tack will go to 7-9, diesel to 4? v
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