In addition the cable lengths are much different. The alternator temperature sensor (MC-TS-A) is 54" long whereas the battery temperature sensor (MC-TS-B) is 20' long. But apparently cable length does not affect either sensor's operational characteristics.
Dave, a similar question was asked and answered many years ago. "If the shoe fits, wear it."
My plan is to attach a battery temp sensor to the DC- post and connect that to the Alternator Temp on the Regulator. I'll connect an alternator temp sensor to the Battery temp input on the regulator. It will just measure the ambient air temp which will be fine because the alternator will be low powered and the battery bank (LFP) temp is monitored by the BMS.
I don't understand why you are adding a battery temp sensor? Just leave it off for LFP and save the $50 for something else. If you do attach it, the regulator is going to use it, so make sure you set the regulator battery temp compensation to zero. At which point you have just disabled it, or figuratively left the sensor off, but still literally connected.
Because the regulator needs a battery temp and an alternator for the temperature control to work.
For some reason, I thought you had the Balmar regulator, where that does not matter. Now I assume it is not a Balmar?
It is a Balmar 618 and it does need 2 temp sensors in order for the alternator temp control to work.
Interesting. We have two 614's and they do not need both sensors for either to work. I was going to get a 618, but may reconsider that now.
OK, I just read the manual and don't see anything about both sensors needing to be present for the alternator control to work. They talk about each separately, and each being optional. The battery sensor can be used with LFP to ensure the regulator doesn't charge when too hot or cold, so that is control of the alternator to some extent, but the alt temp sensor still works if the batt sensor is not installed.
It is an undocumented feature. There is a "NoSEN" (or something like that) option that enables temp monitoring and field control. If the temp is too high in either the battery or alternator the field is reduced. In early versions of the 618 this feature worked if either the battery or alt temp sensor was connected, now it needs both sensors connected in order to work.
We have a SG200 and it is completely worthless as a battery monitor. I worked with Balmar a lot to try to get it to work by adjusting parameters, testing beta software - nothing helped. I installed a Victron monitor and that works perfectly. I never got around to deinstalling the SG200, so I guess I can use its bluetooth to monitor the 618 if I get one. Right now, it is just set to display amperage.
The first version of the 618 did not have the Sen function or if it did, it worked with the alt sensor alone. I know this because I installed a 618 and used it with just one sensor and LFP batteries. Later versions of the 618 did have the Sen function.
Because it costs $600 more than the Balmar 618 (I can buy three, maybe four, 618's for the price of the Zeus), I already have a Balmar 614 on each engine and this would be a simple direct swap out - particularly since there is also a Centerfielder sitting between the two regulators, I have no need at all for any of the functions of the Zeus except for its ability to regulate, I particularly have no need for canbus communication, as I have nothing for it to communicate with, and the Zeus will not fit where my current Balmars are located outside the engine compartment, which would require all new wiring runs - let alone finding a suitable place for it. My alternators don't overheat, and my engines are large enough to drive them at any rpm or simultaneously with propulsion need.
I was being brief and overly technical. The regulator reduces the slowly and monitors the temp as you said.
Not sure where you are shopping. I paid about $1400 for a Zeus alternator and a Zeus regulator. The 618 with one temp sensor was around $350 at the West Marine pro price and a replacement AT 170 about $1200 delivered from Defender. For the money, the Zeus is a much better deal, better alternator better regulator. It's a no brainer, until the transient docking fees and converting the J10 pulleys to J6s are included. If this had happened closer to home, I would have gone with the Arco products.
