Alternator for Yanmar 40

Jan 29, 2010
64
Hunter 38 Ocean Gate, NJ
I recently purchased a 2006 Hunter 38 which has the factory-installed 60 amp alternator on my 40-horse engine. This is woefully weak when trying to spend the night on the hook or a few days away from shore power.

I want to upgrade to maybe a 125 amp alternator so I can recharge within a reasonable time.

Any suggestions on what to look for or problems to avoid?

Would this be a simple "pull-off-the-old & plug-in-the-new" operation?

I think the current generation of alternators has internal regulators. Does anyone know if they are three-stage regulators??

Thanks to all.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,716
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I recently purchased a 2006 Hunter 38 which has the factory-installed 60 amp alternator on my 40-horse engine. This is woefully weak when trying to spend the night on the hook or a few days away from shore power.

I want to upgrade to maybe a 125 amp alternator so I can recharge within a reasonable time.

Any suggestions on what to look for or problems to avoid?

Would this be a simple "pull-off-the-old & plug-in-the-new" operation?

I think the current generation of alternators has internal regulators. Does anyone know if they are three-stage regulators??

Thanks to all.

If you want 125A continuous then you will really need a 150-160A alt.

You will also need a serpentine pulley kit to drive it.

You will also want an external regulator such as the Balmar MC-614

Pulley kits are available from Balmar, Electromaax and Mark Grasser DC Solutions.

The two alts I would recommend would be a Balmar 6 Series or a Mark Grasser alt.

You will also need a bank that can take that kind of current as well as alt and battery sensors..
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,832
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Honda

Just suggestion that maybe look into a Honda 2000 like many others do
when anchoring out and it will charge batteries plus run other things
at same time.
I have many cruising friends who do it and if you have 2 AC units maybe even run the smaller one from it and many other things too.
The problem with adding bigger alternator is so much is needed and all that wear
on your engine.
Just saying have seen many cruisers with the Honda 2000.
Nick
 

reraft

.
Jan 1, 2009
47
hunter 376 alameda ca
We have been cruising in Mexico for the last four years & our battery regeneration process has treated us well.
We installed an Elecrtomaax 160 amp alternator & serpentine belt - three 135 watt solar panels & we have power to spare. The alternator has been flawless & have never had to adjust the belt in four years & no dust from the belt.
Electromaax.com - talk to John
 

reraft

.
Jan 1, 2009
47
hunter 376 alameda ca
Just to add - we haver a 1996 376 & our house bank is two 4D agm LIFELINE batteries
 
May 24, 2004
7,190
CC 30 South Florida
The alternator is just one part of the equation. You would need a battery bank whose acceptance rate could match the increased output. The installation may require new brackets, belts and pulleys. An external regulator capable of optimizing the charging cycles will be a must and with all that new equipment a battery monitor to help you protect it. This may all be worthwhile if you intend in doing a lot of motoring as you could produce enough power over the top to supply your loads underway while maintaining a fully charged battery bank. The manufacturers choose a 55A or 60A as it is a good compromise with the rate of acceptance of lead/acid batteries and does not use as much horsepower from the already taxed auxiliary diesel. I can see a cruiser with large battery banks and refrigeration needs for passage making to benefit from a complete upgrade but for the average coastal cruiser or weekender I do not see the return on investment.
 
May 16, 2007
1,509
Boatless ! 26 Ottawa, Ontario
The battery monitor and Honda generator are good suggestions if you don't have a generator on board.

I have an Electromaax 140A, with flat belt kit and external Balmar regulator. It works well with our 400 Ahr AGM bank. Unlike lead acid battery the AGMs can take 100 amps or more and bulk up quickly.

With a bigger alternator you will still need to top off the batteries and solar is probably the best way to do that.

It might be best to spend the money on a battery monitor, solar panels, Honda generator, bigger AC battery charger (don't get one too big for the Honda to run) bigger house bank before pulling the trigger on a larger alternator. It all depends on your plans and how the boat will be used.

Good luck, Bob
 
Apr 6, 2007
54
Hunter 38 Owen Sound, Ontario
I recently purchased a 2006 Hunter 38 which has the factory-installed 60 amp alternator on my 40-horse engine. This is woefully weak when trying to spend the night on the hook or a few days away from shore power. I want to upgrade to maybe a 125 amp alternator so I can recharge within a reasonable time. Any suggestions on what to look for or problems to avoid? Would this be a simple "pull-off-the-old & plug-in-the-new" operation? I think the current generation of alternators has internal regulators. Does anyone know if they are three-stage regulators?? Thanks to all.
Congratulations on the new boat. We have owned a 2005 Hunter 38 since 2006. Still love the boat.

We manage about 6 days off the dock / shore power and still have the stock 60 amp alternator. We typically anchor out and move most days, so even if we are sailing there will be some motoring out of and into anchorages. We do not have solar or wind charging.

If you do decide to go with a bigger alternator you should be certain that it is compatible with the alternator sensor cable. On our boats the Yanmar tach reads pulses from the alternator. If you change to a Balmar alternator you may need to have the tach re calibrated.... and I'm really not sure how complicated that is. To avoid this worry I purchased the optional 80 amp Yanmar alternator. Have yet to install it as we cope fine as we are. Nice to have as a spare. I think the Electromax alternators might work. I looked at a bracket to mount a second alternator on the starboard side of the engine but there is not the clearance needed in the engine compartment.

We have 4x 6v Trojan T105 batteries in addition to the 12v engine starter. They all fit in the battery compartment under the floor. This gives us about 450 amp hrs of house battery. The boat has a solenoid that parallels the house and engine batteries when the engine ignition circuit is energized and isolates them when the engine is off. The Promariner shore power charger has outputs to both engine and starter batteries. When we do go into port for the night I really want all the output from the charger going to the house battery. There is little in the way of amp hours consumer starting the Yanmar so starter battery is always close to 100% charged. What I did was move both of the charger output leads to the house battery I also move the charge wire from the alternator to the house battery side and installed a Xantrex digital echo charger to take power from the house battery side and trickle charge the starter battery as needed. There are dip switches on the Promariner charger that need to be set for the size of your battery bank. Can't remember the exact details but the manual should be available online.

We are very careful about what we use power wise. Have installed LEDs, try Marinebeam.com, the fluorescent lights are actually quite efficient also. We run the fridge 24/7 which when it's hot out is our biggest power consumption. We keep beverages in the freezer which is turned to it's warmest setting to run as a fridge. We only run it when the engine is running or when an shore power. If it's kept full stays cold / cool fairly well. The car radio type stereo and the Bose system and TV run off the inverter are both power hogs. You will want to change to some sort of LED anchor light.

There is a great iPad app called boat battery that you can use to inventory battery bank size and consumption. I also recommend Boat Owners Illustrated Electrical Handbook by Wing.

Hope this helps. Best wishes with your new boat.
 
Jan 29, 2010
64
Hunter 38 Ocean Gate, NJ
I want to thank you all for your insights and experience regarding DC charging systems. On the trip bringing the new boat home we spent a couple of nights on the hook and noticed that the 4D battery house battery quickly dropped below 12.5 v. We turned all off that we could but it didn't help much. When we got to our home slip I looked at the house battery and saw a manufacture date of 2004! I quickly replaced the 4D, but didn't solve the problem, and began looking to beefing up the charging system. I am also going to have the refrig & freezer (which is generally turned off) looked at to see if they are fully charged. They are supposed to draw only 2.2 & 4.2 amps but the refrig and the anchor light depleted the new 4D in a couple of hours. The 60 amp alternator did nothing to recharge the 4D to any noticeable extent even after an hour of motoring.

Currently we are only weekenders, but hope to retire before too long and take months-long trips. We think we have the right boat for us but need to manage the DC power charging system better.

My next step, before sinking dollars into any solution, is to get a qualified marine electrician who knows this boat to recommend a reasonable solution. I'll be printing out all of your suggestions and running them by that person.

Again, thanks for your input and, for those who haven't yet added your 2 cents, I'm still listening.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,716
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I want to thank you all for your insights and experience regarding DC charging systems. On the trip bringing the new boat home we spent a couple of nights on the hook and noticed that the 4D battery house battery quickly dropped below 12.5 v. We turned all off that we could but it didn't help much. When we got to our home slip I looked at the house battery and saw a manufacture date of 2004! I quickly replaced the 4D, but didn't solve the problem, and began looking to beefing up the charging system. I am also going to have the refrig & freezer (which is generally turned off) looked at to see if they are fully charged. They are supposed to draw only 2.2 & 4.2 amps but the refrig and the anchor light depleted the new 4D in a couple of hours. The 60 amp alternator did nothing to recharge the 4D to any noticeable extent even after an hour of motoring.

Currently we are only weekenders, but hope to retire before too long and take months-long trips. We think we have the right boat for us but need to manage the DC power charging system better.

My next step, before sinking dollars into any solution, is to get a qualified marine electrician who knows this boat to recommend a reasonable solution. I'll be printing out all of your suggestions and running them by that person.

Again, thanks for your input and, for those who haven't yet added your 2 cents, I'm still listening.

Loaded voltages tell you nothing about SOC unless you have spent hours each year re graphing them at known SOC points... No one does this..... A resting voltage of 24+ hours at 80F is the only method of voltage to SOC that will yield a "close to accurate" SOC for AGM's...

Rested Voltage = no charging or discharging at all for 24 hours.. Even then with many AGM batteries it may take 48 hours or more to attain a resting voltage.