Alternative woods for teak?

[Smiley]

What are alternative woods to teak on a sailboat?
I know plastic is used for the cabin crib boards, and their rails, and the pop top rails. I'm likely to go that route eventually with them.
But what about the handrails atop the cabin?
I got the impression from a website that possibly white oak could be used - I can do some woodwork. I'd prefer domestic woods that are more easily obtainable. Peoples' thoughts?

Thanks!
Mike

 

[philwsailz]

In typical scenarios, it comes down to maintenance. Teak is naturally rot resistant. It is a good choice for a material that will be left unattended, untreated and exposed to the elements.

If you are the guy who appreciates brightwork, finishes woods, maintains the finish and recoats on a regular schedule, many of the hard woods are good choices. Boats have long been built with white oak, Ash, even cedar and pine, (both soft woods).

 

[Smiley]

Phil, thanks!
We like teak, but I was wondering if I could put my woodworking skills to use on an alternative to teak handrails. If I understand, in short, it comes down to finish and how you care for it.
We found a boat - OH, I almost forgot!!
We found a boat locally and was looking at alternatives. The owner found himself away from the boat and decided it was best to sell. But she can be sailed now.
Her hull number is 8197, 1978-79 pop top. For the time being, she'll be sailed at Maumelle Lake, near Little Rock. Later, we might move her to other lakes with the trailer.

Mike

 

[Bilbo]

The advantage of Teak is the durability and light weight.

If you can find Black Locust wood, it is very rot resistant.
Around here the rural people use it for fence posts but like Oak, it's somewhat heavy.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robinia_pseudoacacia

 

[Old Skool Neil]

Have a look at Afromosia (my spelling is questionable). Looks like teak, half the price.

For the record, former C-22 owner, hull #51.

 

[Team118]

I had mahogany on my 79 Catalina 22. It was quite a show stopper when it had a fresh coat of finish on it.

 

[Smiley]

Team,
That is very nice! What was the finish you used, and what was the maintenance to keep it that way?
Two of our boards need replacing, the third is acrylic. Basically all but the handrails on our "new to us" boat are very worn. I think the handrails can be sanded and oiled up again.

Mike

 

[philwsailz]

For any brightwork where you want an attractive finish, with minimal work, My mantra is Cetol, Cetol, Cetol....

 

[Smiley]

Phil, thanks!
Cetol .. it's not wood specific? Or can it be used on any wood?
Thanks again,
Mike

 

[philwsailz]

Any wood. I have used it on Cedar and Teak with good results. In fact, the cedar was/is on an outdoor wet bat top that I built at my lake place about 6 years ago. It lived 4 years outside, summer and winter with zero recoats and it looks beautiful stilll. Come to think of it, that bar also has pressure-treated pine dimensional lumber on it and it sticks equally well.

Just know with teak or any other oily woods, any finish you use requires a prep step to remove the natural surface oil that can cause fish-eyeing and poor bonding. I use acetone. Liberally soak a rag and wipe your freshly sanded wood all over. Toss away the rag, soak a new rag, and repeat until the rags are picking up no more color from the wood. At that point, you know you have removed any dust, and any surface oils are gone. Wait a few minutes for the acetone to evaporate, and then quickly apply your first coat, regardless what it is... You will get a good mechanical and chemical bond with the oils gone, and subsequent coats will adhere to the base finish coat.

When done, get some lotion on your hands; acetone will dry your hands out like you wouldn't believe!

 

[philwsailz]

Oh, I have a mid 50's cold-molded mahogany outboard runabout, and I used Cetol in the interior of the boat, specifically the mahogany inside the hull. It is extremely durable under foot trafic....

 

[Smiley]

Thanks Phil!
And, oh my goodness, that's a beautiful runabout. Thanks for sharing it, too!

 

[Team118]

I've never used Cetol, but I would certainly take Philwsailz' advice as his picutres are certainly proof enough...

I used Epifanes on the 22. I cut this pretty hard on the first coat (over 50% thinner) and slapped another coat on an hour later.

The next day I thinned it about 25% and again put 2 coats on within an hour of each other.

I then gradually reduced the thinner on each successive coat (only one a day after the first 'four') with meticulous 220grit sanding between each coat to remove my mistakes.

By the 6th or 7th coat I was down to a capful of thinner.

The finish held up nicely with a few minor touch ups.

On my Catalina 30 I used the same process but I cheaped out and used Minwax's Spar Finish. Great look but it barely lasted one season on the upper handholds, the boards still look great as do the styles and threshold down below, but again the handrails and teak slides holding the cabin top have taken a bit of abuse.

I touched them up after some light sanding and they look good again.

 

[Smiley]

Edit: I know there's been excellent responses, but I was wondering after seeing some information on another wood that is obtainable where I live. Forgive the redundancy. Mike

I was reading today about Cypress and wondered about its use. I know of a mill not that far from me that apparently has dried wood.
I found this reference online: "The oils in cypress’ heartwood make it one of the most durable woods when exposed to moisture conditions causing decay."
It's from http://cypressinfo.org/index.php?page=templates-and-stylesheets

Thanks in advance,
Mike