All about the 37 cutter rig

Ed Schenck · Jul 20, 2011

Actually 1978 through 1985 Denise. Main improvements over the years were the move of the traveler from the cockpit to the cabin roof and more horsepower. I think a lot of the '84s and '85s had 40 horses. One change that I did not like was the loss of opening ports replaced by deadlights. I'll find the PDF that Jim Legere built with differences and post it here with an edit. All H37-cutters were solid hulls, decks are cored with plywood. All have bolted on lead keels, both shoal(4') and fin(5').

See PDF below.

David in Sandusky · Jul 20, 2011

Initial Reply

The 37c group here is very active, so I'll be brief, since I only own a 27' little sister!

The specs on this site are good for the boat as delivered from 1978 through 85:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...d=38&Itemid=888&brand=Hunter&bmodel=37-cutter

The keel is very solidly bolted on lead.
Hull construction is a ample solid glass in the hull. The decks are a sandwich with plywood or balsa in the middle to provide stiffness at lower weight.

Steve Dion · Jul 20, 2011

Denise:

Check out the owners reviews on these boats. They sail well. The cutter rig makes the sail plan very flexible. I have sailed on one quite a bit and have enjoyed it.

The only complaint I may have about the boat is the aft bunk is small (minor issue) and is only really big enough fo one person.

emilbec · Jul 20, 2011

The boat is a great solid sailor either as a cutter (slow) or sloop (much faster). Don't think moving the traveler from cockpit to the coach roof was an "improvement." Regarding the engine some came with a two cylinder engine (earlier versions) and later versions with a three cylinder 27 hp engine. Most of these power plants are near the end of their useful life so you might think more about a boat that has been repowered. Also the ports were cheap and need to be replaced. Several here has used ports from New Found Metals and are happy with them.

Terry411 · Jul 20, 2011

I know of one boat that has a 4cyl engine . I like my traveler mid boom easier to have a dodger up and a awning back from that to the back stay.

Jim Legere · Jul 22, 2011

DeniseO30 said:
Thanks everyone! I've done quite a bit of reading.. Hard to find anything really bad about the boat!

No evil tendancies whatsoever. But, like most 30-year old boats, leaky ports, wet deck core if fitting bedding has been neglected, old engines, etc. One former owner who wrote a lot about repairs and upgrades is Gene Gruender (now owns a Cheoy Lee, I believe). His website has loads of good info: http://austinsailor.net/. In particular, he deals with dorade leaks, companionway leaks, finding nifty storage in void spaces, etc. Of course, the best resource of all is right here in the forum. Hundreds of years of experience combined.

So when are you buying one, Denise?

Ed Schenck · Jul 22, 2011

Reasons to buy: 1) price, 2) seaworthiness, 3) prefer traditional design, 4) easy to single-hand, 5) separate shower, 6) price.

Reasons not to buy: 1) need a big bed, 2) need two cabins for four adults, 3) like a walk-through transom, 5) do not like to maintain teak, 6) age.

emilbec · Jul 25, 2011

Terry,

Make it two. . I have retrofitted with a four cylinder.

GDenevi · Oct 6, 2011

Deja Vu, 1980 Hunter 37 Cutter

Dear Ed,

I own a H-37 cutter for 3 years now. I did a lot of repairs an upgrades to the boat during this years.

Right now, I need to repower it...originally 3QM30 that was previously converted with a heat exchanger but never worked that way and I had to configure it back to use raw water. Within time, the mixing elbow got completelly damaged, also the fuel and return lines, the exhaust manifold, etc. I am thinking on getting a 3GM30, any recommendations?

Also, I would love to add a lazy jack to handle the mainsail easilly. Any advice?

What about adding a canvas? The sun is killing me, my boat does not have any shade. The boom is really low, how can I do that?

Regards,

Gabriel

Ed Schenck · Oct 7, 2011

You probably should have started a new thread Gabriel but maybe the guys will see it here. The 3GM would be a great option if you can find a good one. I repowered with a new 3YM30.

I really like my lazy jacks from Sailcare. I had them for ten years. Recently I painted my mast and bought just the lines from Sailcare since the hardware was already there. In my opinion the best are from EZ-Jax. I would have bought those if not for already having the hardware. Plus Sailcares being half the cost.

I am over six feet and my bimini is about 6' 6". But only from the middle bow to the rear bow. I made mine from a Sailrite kit. The front bow is lower than the other two. And yes, I have to duck a little when going under. But I did not want to mess with the rig. Pic of crewmate Don on the way to Florida. That gull poop was really hard to remove.

Bill1565 · Oct 7, 2011

GDenevi said:
Also, I would love to add a lazy jack to handle the mainsail easilly. Any advice?
What about adding a canvas? The sun is killing me, my boat does not have any shade. The boom is really low, how can I do that?
Gabriel

No reason you can't have both. I too am over 6 feet tall. We have a dodger,transition piece and bimini that allow me to stand up right and see to drive. We have had lazyjacks on several boats, they are fine, but for this boat Mary made a sail pack, combining lazyjacks and sail cover. Huge improvement in dropping the sail right into the cover. Can't locate photo right now. will add later.

GDenevi · Oct 7, 2011

Bill and Ed, thanks.

You guys are great,

The link bellow shows the bimini system from Sailrite that I would like to install, would that one fit? I believe it can be adjusted a bit:

http://www.sailrite.com/Bimini-Kit-Complete-3-Bow-7-8-Aluminum-Frame-Fittings-Sunbrella

The Stack-Pack from Doyle seems appropiate, a lazy jack and main cover at the same time. I guess I have to measure the lenght of my boom in order to get the correct one.

Regarding the 3YM30, I guess the one with standard transmission would fit, the engine blocks seem to be in the same position as the 3QM30.
No idea where to look for the engine, a rebuilt one.

Another concern with the boat are the stanchions, some have the caps missing and/or broken.

Additionally, the main sheet hauling system has a winch attached to the mast and it is required to get up there in order to hoist, lower it. I would modify the layout so I can hoist the main from the cockpit. How do you guys do it in your boats?

I appreciate your help a lot.

Regards,

Gabriel

Ed Schenck · Oct 7, 2011

That is exactly the Sailrite kit that I used Gabriel. I erected the frame on the boat and then duplicated it on a 2x4 frame in the basement. It takes some work to get a good fit so you need the frame to be solid. I drilled and tapped the toerail to mount the feet. I was told aluminum would not hold up. Twelve years later the frame cleans up as nice as new. All but three of those years we were in fresh water however.

My engine installation can be seen in Owners Mods along with another. The main issue is that the newer engines are narrower necessitating some work to make the mounting wider. Check with companies like Mack Boring and Torresen for used motors.

Can't help with stanchions as in 1979 there was no cap.

Bill1565 · Oct 7, 2011

Re: Bill and Ed, thanks.

1. sailrite is a good outfit. Mary made our stack pack from a sailrite kit. You do realize that this is a kit. You will have to cut and bend the tubes, cut and sew the fabric.

2. I think you mean main halyard. I have winches on the mast as you do. I go up there to raise,lower and reef the main.

Some people replace the bolts in the mast ring with eye bolts and fasten turning blocks to them, run the halyard back to the cabin top and place winches there.

Busy tomorrow, but I will try to measure our bimini and comment on the kit size.

Ed Schenck · Oct 7, 2011

Your boom is 13' 4.5" long. The kits are not easy, but Bill you do not have to bend any tubing. And like Bill I have my halyards at the mast.

sandpiper10471 · Oct 7, 2011

You don't need a big three bow bimini. Mine is quite small with two bows and only about four feet fore and aft. It keeps the sun out and most of the rain off the helmsman. Any rigging shop can set you up with bows.The sewing isn't that hard and there is a lot of books and info out there. Sailrite is a good way to go, though.

I have had all lines back to the cockpit on other boats but I prefer to have the haliards and reefing lines at the mast. Seems I was always going up there anyway to remove a snarl or whatever. Worst was pulling the main down in a blow and having a kink in the haliard catching in the cockpit line jammer, requiring another trip back to the cockpit. The motion of the 37 is so good going up to the mast is not really an issue.

I repowered with a Nanni diesel. Thirty horse, three cylinders. The feet fit the stringers and it was stock with a 100 amp alternator. Cheaper than a Yanmar too. Another good bet is the Beta engine from England. Both are Kubota based engines. So far, I think I made a super choice.

Low boom - My boom was too low for the dodger which I retrofitted from another boat. I was able to raise the boom on the mast about 9 inches. Obviously, the original stock sail was a little short on the hoist. You may be lucky too.

All about the 37 cutter rig

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