The posting expired, but I will google it and see if I can find it
cached. Thank you for the lead!
cached. Thank you for the lead!
Albin Vega Wanted
- Thread starter hanspefleischner
- Start date
Will do Larry!
I am an art teacher..so I could draw it...but that is as far as it goes for me!!!
I have a good friend how is an auto mechanic here in town and he will be the one bench testing it for me.
Will keep you posted!
Chris
Larry Bissell albinvega1493@... wrote: Chris,
I am an auto mechanic teacher so I will give it a shot. Sounds to me
like the bearings are worn out in the starter and the armature is
contacting the field coils and preventing the starter from turning.
Hence the sparks. If you get sparks and a buzzing sound like it is
trying to turn, that is most likely the cause. Most any reputable
starter/alternator rebuild shop would be able to repair the starter. I
would not try to rebuild it yourself unless you have the proper tools
and knowledge. It is possible that all it needs is brushes and maybe
bearings. Even then, it is almost as cheap to have a
starter/alternator rebuild shop do it, usually with a warranty to
boot. Check your yellow pages for Starters/Alternator rebuilders. It
may be under automotive electronics. Good luck.
Larry
I am an art teacher..so I could draw it...but that is as far as it goes for me!!!
I have a good friend how is an auto mechanic here in town and he will be the one bench testing it for me.
Will keep you posted!
Chris
Larry Bissell albinvega1493@... wrote: Chris,
I am an auto mechanic teacher so I will give it a shot. Sounds to me
like the bearings are worn out in the starter and the armature is
contacting the field coils and preventing the starter from turning.
Hence the sparks. If you get sparks and a buzzing sound like it is
trying to turn, that is most likely the cause. Most any reputable
starter/alternator rebuild shop would be able to repair the starter. I
would not try to rebuild it yourself unless you have the proper tools
and knowledge. It is possible that all it needs is brushes and maybe
bearings. Even then, it is almost as cheap to have a
starter/alternator rebuild shop do it, usually with a warranty to
boot. Check your yellow pages for Starters/Alternator rebuilders. It
may be under automotive electronics. Good luck.
Larry
I left two messages for the broker when I first started looking q
while ago and never got a call back. This one has bounced around for
a while with what looks like a FSBO and then broker (and maybe back
again), going from $19,000.00 to $22,500.00. It seems well equipped
for cruising, but has an outboard bolted on the back and no auxiliary
engine - for $22,500.00.
I wish I could find a 77 or 78 with the nicer gelcoat on the interior
cabin sides and the wider coamings.
Thank you for the lead. I will post when I finally find the right
one!
Hans
while ago and never got a call back. This one has bounced around for
a while with what looks like a FSBO and then broker (and maybe back
again), going from $19,000.00 to $22,500.00. It seems well equipped
for cruising, but has an outboard bolted on the back and no auxiliary
engine - for $22,500.00.
I wish I could find a 77 or 78 with the nicer gelcoat on the interior
cabin sides and the wider coamings.
Thank you for the lead. I will post when I finally find the right
one!
Hans
Roy,
On my previous Vega (a 1975 model) I had an MD 6A (rated at 10HP) and it easily pushed the boat at about hull speed (6.5 knots) both at the beginning of the season and at the end. Even in very strong headwinds (excluding the effect of the size of the swell) I could move at 5+ knots over the ground. The two-bladed variable pitch propellor was quite small and it always amazed me that being so small it could move the boat so well. I now have a later version Vega (1978) with an MD 7A (rated at 13 HP), same size varaible pitch propellor, and it gives the same performance. If you can only get 3.5 knots, I would think of checking the setting of the variable pitch propellor relative to the cam position on the Combi - perhaps someone set it incorrectly while doing some work on the Combi?
regards,
Clint (Vega #3326)
groundhog groundhog1rb@... wrote:
Steve,
Can you define - "matched prop"?
thx,
Roy
On my previous Vega (a 1975 model) I had an MD 6A (rated at 10HP) and it easily pushed the boat at about hull speed (6.5 knots) both at the beginning of the season and at the end. Even in very strong headwinds (excluding the effect of the size of the swell) I could move at 5+ knots over the ground. The two-bladed variable pitch propellor was quite small and it always amazed me that being so small it could move the boat so well. I now have a later version Vega (1978) with an MD 7A (rated at 13 HP), same size varaible pitch propellor, and it gives the same performance. If you can only get 3.5 knots, I would think of checking the setting of the variable pitch propellor relative to the cam position on the Combi - perhaps someone set it incorrectly while doing some work on the Combi?
regards,
Clint (Vega #3326)
groundhog groundhog1rb@... wrote:
Steve,
Can you define - "matched prop"?
thx,
Roy
Hi Groundhog
If the prop is matched to engine, gearbox, Horsepower, waterline length
boat shape, rpm, shaft diameter, boat weight etc. All will affect what
prop you should have.
If you let me know the above then I will tell you what prop you should
have.
You should easily get 5 - 6 knots with a Vega if all is ok.
S
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If the prop is matched to engine, gearbox, Horsepower, waterline length
boat shape, rpm, shaft diameter, boat weight etc. All will affect what
prop you should have.
If you let me know the above then I will tell you what prop you should
have.
You should easily get 5 - 6 knots with a Vega if all is ok.
S
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.12/1072 - Release Date:
15/10/2007 17:55
Hi Walt,
The surveyor said it was the cabin wall between the starboard main
cabin window and the starboard head window. He took pictures with a
moisture meter showing that it was saturated. It also deflected with
hand pressure or a rubbber mallet. The port side was fine.
It seems that the cabin side walls were laminated with a foam core on
the later boats (1977 and 1978). They have a nice bare gelcoat
finish on the interior. Earlier boats are single wall, and you can
see the fiberglass roving from the inside (if you don't have a
headliner). I haven't yet heard of any major hull delaminations -
but I have heard other stories similar to the Idaho boat of some
water infiltrations that can do some damage, especially in freezing
weather.
Anyway, the surveyor estimate many square feet of damage and several
thousand dollars (same problem in the adjacent deck area).
Hans
, and no
The surveyor said it was the cabin wall between the starboard main
cabin window and the starboard head window. He took pictures with a
moisture meter showing that it was saturated. It also deflected with
hand pressure or a rubbber mallet. The port side was fine.
It seems that the cabin side walls were laminated with a foam core on
the later boats (1977 and 1978). They have a nice bare gelcoat
finish on the interior. Earlier boats are single wall, and you can
see the fiberglass roving from the inside (if you don't have a
headliner). I haven't yet heard of any major hull delaminations -
but I have heard other stories similar to the Idaho boat of some
water infiltrations that can do some damage, especially in freezing
weather.
Anyway, the surveyor estimate many square feet of damage and several
thousand dollars (same problem in the adjacent deck area).
Hans
, and no
Hi Roy;
I think you got it right about the setting of the variable
pitch prop. Actually, that's easy to check: whith the lever
in neutral position, the prop should not move the boat. And
it's easy to correct once the boat is out of the
water.(even though, it can be done with the boat in the
water)
But there is another thing: You're saying your Vega moved
at 6.5 knots. That's about 7.5 mph. In all my sailing the
Vega I reached 7 mph only on a reach or with the spinnaker
flying. With the engine I make 6.5 mph, but I could go as
fast as 7 mph, but that half mph more would cost me a lot
of fuel.
Just an observation... Wilhelm, V-257
I think you got it right about the setting of the variable
pitch prop. Actually, that's easy to check: whith the lever
in neutral position, the prop should not move the boat. And
it's easy to correct once the boat is out of the
water.(even though, it can be done with the boat in the
water)
But there is another thing: You're saying your Vega moved
at 6.5 knots. That's about 7.5 mph. In all my sailing the
Vega I reached 7 mph only on a reach or with the spinnaker
flying. With the engine I make 6.5 mph, but I could go as
fast as 7 mph, but that half mph more would cost me a lot
of fuel.
Just an observation... Wilhelm, V-257
Thanks for the input Richard, Clint, and Steve.
I no longer have the combi. It was replaced by the previous owner.
So the setup now is the Vega with original MD6A (#1813), and I think a 2:1? reversing gear box.
If you remember my posts last summer (probably not), I was all over that engine, banging and fixing. Everything seemed good.
Since I've never seen another vega or MD6A in action, I can't tell you if the engine sounds right or not. And we never had the Annapolis get together... well it did happen, it's just that I was the only one that showed up LOL.
After cleaning off the barnicles from the prop, and got so much more performance from that, I started thinking that maybe the prop should be more substantial.
IF you look at the combi prop, it's wingspan is larger than mine because the blades are on that big hub thing. That will make the velocity of the rotating tips faster.
So, based on the above info, what prop should I have?
Roy
I no longer have the combi. It was replaced by the previous owner.
So the setup now is the Vega with original MD6A (#1813), and I think a 2:1? reversing gear box.
If you remember my posts last summer (probably not), I was all over that engine, banging and fixing. Everything seemed good.
Since I've never seen another vega or MD6A in action, I can't tell you if the engine sounds right or not. And we never had the Annapolis get together... well it did happen, it's just that I was the only one that showed up LOL.
After cleaning off the barnicles from the prop, and got so much more performance from that, I started thinking that maybe the prop should be more substantial.
IF you look at the combi prop, it's wingspan is larger than mine because the blades are on that big hub thing. That will make the velocity of the rotating tips faster.
So, based on the above info, what prop should I have?
Roy
a 10 to about 15 HP engine with about 3000 rpm has a
gearbox of about 2.6:1. (lots of 'abouts) I think Steve
wrote what's necessary to get a correct prop (depending on
HP, gearbox, boat dimensions and all the other 'abouts). A
good marine yard will know what you need.
Wilhelm, V-257
gearbox of about 2.6:1. (lots of 'abouts) I think Steve
wrote what's necessary to get a correct prop (depending on
HP, gearbox, boat dimensions and all the other 'abouts). A
good marine yard will know what you need.
Wilhelm, V-257
Hi Groundhog
Max rpm should be 2400 rpm
Asked about prop and your MD6A with MS2 (if 2:1) should be:-
3 Blade 14 x 10
2 Blade 14 x 11.5
If the gearbox is 2.6:1 then you want be able to get a big enough prop
to fit
Cheers
Steve B
Max rpm should be 2400 rpm
Asked about prop and your MD6A with MS2 (if 2:1) should be:-
3 Blade 14 x 10
2 Blade 14 x 11.5
If the gearbox is 2.6:1 then you want be able to get a big enough prop
to fit
Cheers
Steve B
Roy-
I have a 14 x 9 two blade. Don't know if that is the reccomended
size or not.
Richard V1812
I have a 14 x 9 two blade. Don't know if that is the reccomended
size or not.
Richard V1812
Steve,
I just looked up some volvo transmissions like the MD2.
There is the one with 1.91:1, which is the one you are probably referring to.
Then they also have a version with 1:1.
I don't recall the drive shaft rotating very fast on my boat, although I have never tried to compare the flywheel with the drive shaft rotation speed.
Is that how you determine your gear ratio?
Watch the shaft versus the flywheel?
Roy
I just looked up some volvo transmissions like the MD2.
There is the one with 1.91:1, which is the one you are probably referring to.
Then they also have a version with 1:1.
I don't recall the drive shaft rotating very fast on my boat, although I have never tried to compare the flywheel with the drive shaft rotation speed.
Is that how you determine your gear ratio?
Watch the shaft versus the flywheel?
Roy
Yep. Try and find out which one you have so you can work out what prop
you should have.
Cheers
Steve B
you should have.
Cheers
Steve B
By looking at the picture of the Volvo data sheet on the transmission, and my impression of the slow turning shaft...
I bet you I have the 1:1.
roy
I bet you I have the 1:1.
roy
Hi Steve;
looks to me these Vovo engines had a low RPM, same as my
former Albin gasoline engine. With the Combidrive, there
was no transmission, the flywheel and the prop rotated at
the same revolution.
This tells me that if a conventional prop is installed,
then the transmission should be close to 1:1 (but not
necessarely 1:1)
Newer diesel engines run at a higher rotational speed,
around 3000+; these engines need a transmission of about
2.6:1, or in other words, four rotations of the flywheel
and one rotation of the prop.
Wilhelm, V-257
looks to me these Vovo engines had a low RPM, same as my
former Albin gasoline engine. With the Combidrive, there
was no transmission, the flywheel and the prop rotated at
the same revolution.
This tells me that if a conventional prop is installed,
then the transmission should be close to 1:1 (but not
necessarely 1:1)
Newer diesel engines run at a higher rotational speed,
around 3000+; these engines need a transmission of about
2.6:1, or in other words, four rotations of the flywheel
and one rotation of the prop.
Wilhelm, V-257
Hi Wilhelm
I think the Volvo MD6A with combi had an internal reduction gearbox of
1.42:1
Cheers
Steve B
I think the Volvo MD6A with combi had an internal reduction gearbox of
1.42:1
Cheers
Steve B
Hi Steve;
I didn't know that. The Albin gasoline engine had no
internal gearbox. the flywheel and the prop turned the same
way. I remember the Albin sounded like a diesel engine,
the "puff-puff" was so slow- though I liked it. Compared to
the Yanmar, that runs about 3000 RPM, I had to get used to
the noice and high revolution. But I guess- one gets used
to anything.)
Wilhelm, V-257
I didn't know that. The Albin gasoline engine had no
internal gearbox. the flywheel and the prop turned the same
way. I remember the Albin sounded like a diesel engine,
the "puff-puff" was so slow- though I liked it. Compared to
the Yanmar, that runs about 3000 RPM, I had to get used to
the noice and high revolution. But I guess- one gets used
to anything.)
Wilhelm, V-257
So on these gearboxes, when it has say a 2:1 ratio, that means the prop is getting slower or faster by a factor of 2?
roy
roy