Albin Vega Wanted

albinvega1865 · Sep 29, 2007

Hi Richard,

I am not familiar with Sterling. You feel that it has held up well though? Do they have a website?

Thanks Richard
Chris

Richard coe.richard@... wrote: Chris-
Last year when I did the deck I also did the cabin sole. The paint
was Sterling. Added a little tint to it, same as the non-skid. Looks
great, big improvement over the battle scarred sole previously.
Richard V1812

rchrdcoe · Sep 30, 2007

Chris-
Sterling is a 2 part polyurathane. Is easily brushed on. Especially
for a textured surface such as the cabin sole, goes on easily and is
very hard. Like all the two part finishes, is expensive.
Richard

rchrdcoe · Sep 30, 2007

Chris-
Sterling is made by Detco. http://www.detcomarine.com/slsurprep.htm
Richard

Vega1447 · Sep 30, 2007

Hi Steve and all.

I have the gravity feed system for keeping the stuffing box (aft of the
combi gearbox) greased.

I noticed today that - while the plastic bottle that contains the oil is
still full - the feed tube is empty of oil.

Not good..

When I primed the tube & reconnected it to the little (1 cm) pipe a
little (a few cc's) of water came up the pipe and mixed with the oil when
I ran the engine.

It also looks like a little (say 5-10 cc) water had got up the pipe to the
oil bottle.

I stopped engine & reprimed the feed tube and the problem "went away".

Obviously one possibility is that a seal has failed aft of the stuffing
box and water is sucked forward when engine is running.

This doesnt explain why the feed tube was dry???

Maybe a blockage in the tiny hole at bottom of bottle allowing pipe to be
sucked dry of oil then water got sucked forward to "fill the vacuum"??

I'm hauling out for the winter in a few weeks - do I run the risk of
getting water into the engine if I run it?

(I greased the combi box a few months ago - so that should prevent watre
going forward to engine?)

The aft end of the drive shaft has not been packed with grease for several
years - obviously that makes it easier for water to get in?

Thanks for any acvice,

John

John A. Kinsella Ph: +353-61-202148 (Direct)
+353-61-333644 x 2148 (Switch)
Mathematics Dept. e-mail: John.Kinsella@...
University of Limerick FAX: +353-61-334927
IRELAND Web: John Kinsella's Website

albinvega1865 · Sep 30, 2007

Great!
Thank you Richard.

Chris

Richard coe.richard@... wrote:
Chris-
Sterling is made by Detco. http://www.detcomarine.com/slsurprep.htm
Richard

vegasailor2001 · Oct 1, 2007

Hi Chris,

Have you checked the carbons in the dynastart? Mine stopped working last year and I disconnected it, took of the lid, cleaned the inside and changed the carbons. Now its working again. There is two small screws that holds the wire to the carbons that has to be taken away before you disconnect the lid.

Yours,

Björn

rogerefairest · Oct 1, 2007

Hi Chris,

I had a very fun time with the infamous dinastarted,
hope you dont have to go through the same.

Is easy to test, take it to any shop that fixes
alternators, they will be able to test it in 5 min.

Any way, if is not the dinastarter (which was my case)
then have a look at the relay, this ended up being my
problem.

Good luck.

Roger

albinvega1865 · Oct 1, 2007

Hi Bjorn,

I have not done that yet, but should my next few attempts not work, that will most certainly be the next step. I love how the mounting bracket is designed...the last two bolts (going aft) are overlapping so there is no way to slip a socket or box end wrench over either of them...unbelievable (nothing is easy!). But I will most definitely check the brushes, and insulation while I have it opened up.

Thanks Bjorn!
Chris

Björn Hall <miljokemi@...> wrote:
Hi Chris,

Have you checked the carbons in the dynastart? Mine stopped working last year and I disconnected it, took of the lid, cleaned the inside and changed the carbons. Now its working again. There is two small screws that holds the wire to the carbons that has to be taken away before you disconnect the lid.

Yours,

Björn

albinvega1865 · Oct 1, 2007

Thanks Roger,

What did you do to correct the problem? Were you getting the same chatter in the box (voltage regulator/relay) that I have reported? I changed out the regulator/relay a few weeks ago with a used original that was in very good condition, and I am still getting the same noise. Now the funny thing was that it did start one time even after making the noise. We got out into the bay, raised the sails, sailed for the day, and on the way back in...the engine started like a champ! The following weekend, I came up with the kids for a weekend cruise, I turned the key...and ...nothing. Needless to say, we went for a day sail and spent the night on the mooring ( I have a 3 year old and an 8 month old). I didn't want to get caught too far away from the car should the little ones protest!!!

Thanks for the advise Roger
Chris

Roger Fairest rogerefairest@... wrote:
Hi Chris,

I had a very fun time with the infamous dinastarted,
hope you dont have to go through the same.

Is easy to test, take it to any shop that fixes
alternators, they will be able to test it in 5 min.

Any way, if is not the dinastarter (which was my case)
then have a look at the relay, this ended up being my
problem.

Good luck.

Roger

rogerefairest · Oct 1, 2007

The problem...........hmmmmm

Initially was that the battery kept on getting flat,
so I took the dynastarter apart and found out that
this was not the problem, but that the relay had fried
it self (someone very close to me, dropped a spanner
on the batteries and watch it get red before thinking
"maybe it should not be doing that).

Sadly I could not get the original relay and had to
get a new one instead, which now are 2 separate units
and a very different setup, I had to get an electrical
to work out how to get it working since I could not
get it to work.

I dont think this is of any help.

If it was not the battery, then the solenoid is about
to go (they usually give you that kind of warning).

Good Luck

papasbackhoeinc · Oct 1, 2007

Dear Chris,

The Bosch Dynastart did give up in my Vega as well. The local workshop in
Naarden Neth. Took it out and now I am using only one dynamo feeding both
batteries without trouble.[

Henk Jansen

Vega Le Cygne

_____

Van: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] Namens
Roger Fairest
Verzonden: maandag 1 oktober 2007 15:33
Aan: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Onderwerp: Re: [AlbinVega] Dyanstart Starter (poof)

The problem...........hmmmmm

Initially was that the battery kept on getting flat,
so I took the dynastarter apart and found out that
this was not the problem, but that the relay had fried
it self (someone very close to me, dropped a spanner
on the batteries and watch it get red before thinking
"maybe it should not be doing that).

Sadly I could not get the original relay and had to
get a new one instead, which now are 2 separate units
and a very different setup, I had to get an electrical
to work out how to get it working since I could not
get it to work.

I dont think this is of any help.

If it was not the battery, then the solenoid is about
to go (they usually give you that kind of warning).

Good Luck

albinvega1865 · Oct 1, 2007

Hi Henk,

Forgive my naivety, but what is a dynamo. Is that a replacement starter? If so, was it an affordable alternative for you?

Chris

Henk Jansen henk-jansen@... wrote: Dear Chris,

The Bosch Dynastart did give up in my Vega as well. The local workshop in
Naarden Neth. Took it out and now I am using only one dynamo feeding both
batteries without trouble.[

Henk Jansen

Vega Le Cygne

_____

Van: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] Namens
Roger Fairest
Verzonden: maandag 1 oktober 2007 15:33
Aan: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Onderwerp: Re: [AlbinVega] Dyanstart Starter (poof)

The problem...........hmmmmm

Initially was that the battery kept on getting flat,
so I took the dynastarter apart and found out that
this was not the problem, but that the relay had fried
it self (someone very close to me, dropped a spanner
on the batteries and watch it get red before thinking
"maybe it should not be doing that).

Sadly I could not get the original relay and had to
get a new one instead, which now are 2 separate units
and a very different setup, I had to get an electrical
to work out how to get it working since I could not
get it to work.

I dont think this is of any help.

If it was not the battery, then the solenoid is about
to go (they usually give you that kind of warning).

Good Luck

ulf.raknes · Oct 2, 2007

Hi Chris,

On the combined starter/dynamo relay there are two heavy gauge wires,
one from the battery and one going to the dynastarter. Short them
with an old wrench or screwdriver (don't let it touch anything else).
A spark and nothing more, probably means a dynastarter
repair/replacement.
A running dynastarter means a defective relay (or 'ignition' switch).
The relay is not inexpensive, but the starter part of it can be
relaced by a sterter relay from a garden tractor (might be easier to
find too).

Regards
Ulf

albinvega1865 · Oct 2, 2007

Thanks Ulf,

will certanly give that a try this Monday! Thank you for your response. I have a number of great ideas that should get me through this. Thanks to all who have contributed to my dilemma. Please keep suggestions coming!

Chris

"ulf.raknes" ulf@... wrote:
Hi Chris,

On the combined starter/dynamo relay there are two heavy gauge wires,
one from the battery and one going to the dynastarter. Short them
with an old wrench or screwdriver (don't let it touch anything else).
A spark and nothing more, probably means a dynastarter
repair/replacement.
A running dynastarter means a defective relay (or 'ignition' switch).
The relay is not inexpensive, but the starter part of it can be
relaced by a sterter relay from a garden tractor (might be easier to
find too).

Regards
Ulf

albinvega1865 · Oct 2, 2007

Hi Ulf!

A few people have told me to try this. I have gapped a car starter before, though that was much more straightforward than this dynastart unit. I was in the process of pulling it when I discovered that I need a special 17mm wrench to loosen and remove oneof the aft mounting bolts from the bracket as it overlaps the other (brilliant design!). I n any event, I saw only the one large cable attached to the large post located near the top of the unit, and then there were two smaller posts located near the bottom of the unit. Couldn't see the gauge of the wires as they actually rest in the foam insulation in the engine compartment. I will need to cut this section out to repair or remove the starter.

Now, which cables am I trying to short? The auto starters locate both posts really close and all I used to do was lay a screwdriver across them and voile!

These posts seem kind of far apart to gap, or am I missing something? Thanks Ulf!

Chris

"ulf.raknes" ulf@... wrote: Hi Chris,

On the combined starter/dynamo relay there are two heavy gauge wires,
one from the battery and one going to the dynastarter. Short them
with an old wrench or screwdriver (don't let it touch anything else).
A spark and nothing more, probably means a dynastarter
repair/replacement.
A running dynastarter means a defective relay (or 'ignition' switch).
The relay is not inexpensive, but the starter part of it can be
relaced by a sterter relay from a garden tractor (might be easier to
find too).

Regards
Ulf

ulf.raknes · Oct 3, 2007

Chris,

Don't short any of the terminals on the dynastarter.
Follow the most heavy gauge wire up, until you reach a relay. On my
Vega the relay is just to right of the ignition switch, and the two
leftmost terminals are the ones that you should short (viewed from
the cabin). To get to it, you will have to remove some plywood first.

Alternatively use a jump start cable between the battery+ and the
terminal on the dynastarter (13 mm nut - the only one that's easy to
get at).
Connect to the battery first, so that any sparks are in the engine
room and not at the battery (it can contain hydrogen and blow up with
acid all over). Also be careful not to touch any engine parts with
the jump start cable

Place the cable quickly and firmly and remove it again, if nothing
happens.

On an automobile starter, the starter relay is often placed on top of
the starter with the terminals close enough to short with "anything".

Good luck
Ulf

albinvega1865 · Oct 3, 2007

Thanks Ulf!

I was actually going to try the jumper cables this Monday, funny you should mention that! I will keep you posted and let you know how it goes...if you don't hear from me by Monday evening....call the coast guard!!! ;-) LOL

Thanks Again Ulf!
Chris

"ulf.raknes" ulf@... wrote: Chris,

Don't short any of the terminals on the dynastarter.
Follow the most heavy gauge wire up, until you reach a relay. On my
Vega the relay is just to right of the ignition switch, and the two
leftmost terminals are the ones that you should short (viewed from
the cabin). To get to it, you will have to remove some plywood first.

Alternatively use a jump start cable between the battery+ and the
terminal on the dynastarter (13 mm nut - the only one that's easy to
get at).
Connect to the battery first, so that any sparks are in the engine
room and not at the battery (it can contain hydrogen and blow up with
acid all over). Also be careful not to touch any engine parts with
the jump start cable

Place the cable quickly and firmly and remove it again, if nothing
happens.

On an automobile starter, the starter relay is often placed on top of
the starter with the terminals close enough to short with "anything".

Good luck
Ulf

PKgosail · Oct 4, 2007

"Julie" is still for sale.

Paul Hermanson
Channel Islands Harbor
Oxnard, CA
************************************** See what's new at News, Sports, Weather, Entertainment, Local & Lifestyle - AOL

albinvega1865 · Oct 5, 2007

Hi Folks!

My temperature gauge is on the blink. i have tried cleaning the contacts, and the wiring is pretty straightforward and in good condition. I even cleaned the contacts to the unit itself, but to no avail. Could the heat sending unit be shot?

If so, are these difficult to replace or fix?

Thanks
Chris

Vega1447 · Oct 5, 2007

Hi Chris
for what it is worth I thought mine was bust too.
Didnt even try to get it working for a year then someone suggested putting
the sender into a pot of water and boiling it for 10 minutes.

Problem solved..

Hope this helps.

John

Vega 1447 Breakaway

John A. Kinsella Ph: +353-61-202148 (Direct)
+353-61-333644 x 2148 (Switch)
Mathematics Dept. e-mail: John.Kinsella@...
University of Limerick FAX: +353-61-334927
IRELAND Web: John Kinsella's Website