The alarm on the panel in the cockpit on my Myanmar 2 GM (B panel I think) used to buzz weakly and finally quit. Are replacements available? I suspect a bad buzzer or possibly band connectiond. Can anyone help with a diagnosis or how to check and clean the connections?
Alarm on Yanmar 2GM Panel
- Thread starter Nelsonhow
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that buzzer may have gone bad ...but you can ck it by taking the two wires that are coming out of the buzzer and hook 1 to the positive of a 12 volt battery and the other to the neg post......and it may work ...but to make sure swap the wires on the battery and see if it works then (i dont think that it will make and differance) .....if it is found to not be working then you may purchase one from your yanmar dealer (very very pricey)...or you can watch ebay stores and may find one in good repair for a lot less....the last time i cked the yanmar price i think they were about $125.00(outrageious
)...hope this has helped you ....regards
woody
Thanks for the advice. Please excuse my typing I was doing it while commiting home on the train on my Droid with that ridiculously small keyboard.
Certainly check it before purching. Try digiKey.com for replacement parts. It should only have to be a 12 volt buzzer as it does not have to mount to a panel hole. Certainly cheaper than $120
99.44% of all electrical problems on boats are corroded connections. Since the buzzer worked weakly then died I'd suspect corrosion either on the wires or at the sensor switches.
First check the buzzer and if that is good then you are going to have to track down the offending sensor or wire. The oil pressure sensor is the one that is sounding off when the engine is off and the ignition is on so start there. Just test across the oil pressure switch on the engine and the engine block with an ohm meter. You should get less than 1 ohm with the engine not running. If that is OK then the wiring in between is suspect. Check the 5ish connectors Hunter installs on the engine/panel wire loom. One to connect the sensor to the wire, one to connect the engine wiring to the boat loom, one to connect the boat loom to the panel wiring, and a rats nest behind the panel which will have at least one more connection and probably two.
99.44% of all electrical problems on boats are corroded connections. Since the buzzer worked weakly then died I'd suspect corrosion either on the wires or at the sensor switches.
First check the buzzer and if that is good then you are going to have to track down the offending sensor or wire. The oil pressure sensor is the one that is sounding off when the engine is off and the ignition is on so start there. Just test across the oil pressure switch on the engine and the engine block with an ohm meter. You should get less than 1 ohm with the engine not running. If that is OK then the wiring in between is suspect. Check the 5ish connectors Hunter installs on the engine/panel wire loom. One to connect the sensor to the wire, one to connect the engine wiring to the boat loom, one to connect the boat loom to the panel wiring, and a rats nest behind the panel which will have at least one more connection and probably two.
Spent some alone time on the boat today and was able to look at the panel buzzer again. I was able to access the back of the panel by getting into the lazarette, Good thing I'm on a diet..... The electric connections were glean and goo. I was able to remove the buzzer by simply unplugging it and loosening the knurled nut at the back of the buzzer. Something is banging around inside the buzzer when I shake it. I assume this is not normal. I did the 12V test and no sound. I checked and the replacement Yanmar part is now $187...so it's off to Radio Shack or the internet to see if I can cobble together a replacement.
Nelson:
Don't go too far. Take a look at this and see if you think it may work.
http://www.wemausa.com/switches/index.html#SAB
for $12 it may not be worth driving anywhere.
Don't go too far. Take a look at this and see if you think it may work.
http://www.wemausa.com/switches/index.html#SAB
for $12 it may not be worth driving anywhere.
Steve,
I live near Radio Shack and found a piezo buzzer that will work for $9. I intend to make jumper wires from the old buzzer plug go to the new buzzer. I assume that I can make 1 jumper from the + in the harness to the + on the buzzer and then a - wire from each of the sensor wires to the - on the buzzer. My question is can I just combine the - wires for the oil, water temp and alternator to the negative post on the buzzer or do I need to add a diode or something?
Any advice?
I live near Radio Shack and found a piezo buzzer that will work for $9. I intend to make jumper wires from the old buzzer plug go to the new buzzer. I assume that I can make 1 jumper from the + in the harness to the + on the buzzer and then a - wire from each of the sensor wires to the - on the buzzer. My question is can I just combine the - wires for the oil, water temp and alternator to the negative post on the buzzer or do I need to add a diode or something?
Any advice?
west marine 2011 catalog pg 646
cole hersee LED Light and Buzzer combo 49.99
not dirt cheap but good quality and you know it will last and you know it's the right
gadget for your boat (not radio shack)
IMHO engine is too valuable and expensive to repair to go so cheap for plastic parts that may not work in a critical application.
50.00 is small price to pay to know when something is wrong with the engine.
what if you fried it because you wanted to save 38.00.
Good Luck.
cole hersee LED Light and Buzzer combo 49.99
not dirt cheap but good quality and you know it will last and you know it's the right
gadget for your boat (not radio shack)
IMHO engine is too valuable and expensive to repair to go so cheap for plastic parts that may not work in a critical application.
50.00 is small price to pay to know when something is wrong with the engine.
what if you fried it because you wanted to save 38.00.
Good Luck.
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