I have a 30 feet sailbot with a Yanmar 2GM20FC diesel engine. In cold weather, when I turn the key to start the engine, the alarm buzzer is hardly heard or not at all. In spite of this, the engine starts with diffculty and with some black smoke. Why doesn't the buzzer work? Do I have to leave the key turned e few seconds before I push the start button? The batteries show 12V before the start and 14V while the engine works. Thank you in advance for any comments and helps...
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I have the same engine, and don't have this problem. I'm guessing that (1) if your batteries show an output of 12v, they are pretty well discharged. Fully charged batteries should show a charge of 12.6-12.8 vdc when not under load. (2) your wiring harness may developed some impedence, which happens over time. The hard starting in cold weather suggests that not only may your batteries be undercharged, they may not be able to put out the needed cranking amps for starting -- cold weather just makes it harder for such batteries to perform. You may want to start by having your batteries load tested (most West Marine stores can do this or most auto service stations). You also may want to check your wiring harness to make sure that all the connections (and there typically are far too many...and each reduces amps needed for starting) are bright and tight and that your wiring itself is not drawing off current due to internal corrosion. Lastly, but importantly, the buzzer is the oil pressure sensor. Make sure you don't have an oil leak and that your engine oil is filled to the proper level. Hope this helps.
Thank you for your kind suggestions, I will check the batteries. By the way, do you believe that battery refreshers really help keeping batteries in good condition? Especially when we can't use our boats much in winter time.
You might want to make sure that the oil level is not too high. This can result from overfilling it or from a fuel leak. I doubt it is your problem but it would cause the oil pressure to be high at start-up and would reduce the time that the buzzer would sound and might make cranking harder. Too much oil or fuel in the oil in a diesel is a dangerous condition and could cause a run-away engine. It's easy to check. Just make sure the oil level is below the top mark on the dip stick.
I think a weak battery is a more likely the issue but it's a good idea to check the oil level anyway.
--Tom.
I think a weak battery is a more likely the issue but it's a good idea to check the oil level anyway.
--Tom.
Not sure in what context you refer to winter when considering so-called refreshers. Winter is typically the time batteries are rarely, if ever, on charge and therefore less likely to suffer from sulfation.
Of the various types, the PWM type seems to be the only design which has a good reputation at effectively maintaining capacity in batteries which are normally on shorepower charge for prolonged periods. I've seen battery resistance data monitored over time which indicates PWM charging does work. Does that answer your question?
Battery Storage
is what you're asking about for winter time. The best thing you can do for your batteries is to charge them up completely and just leave them for the winter. Your choice if you want to keep them on a charger for float, but it's really not necessary.
is what you're asking about for winter time. The best thing you can do for your batteries is to charge them up completely and just leave them for the winter. Your choice if you want to keep them on a charger for float, but it's really not necessary.
It is normal especially in older boats to experience a voltage drop on all 12V circuits when the engine is being cranked especially in cold weather. To test your warning lamps and the buzzer turn your key on but do not depress the starter button; your "alternator" lamp and your "Oil Pressure" lamp should go on brightly and the buzzer should sound loud and crisp. There should be a toggle switch on your panel to test the temperature sender and circuit and when activated the lamp and buzzer should go on. If all this works you should be fine but if your lamps are dim and the buzzer sounds weak then check your wiring harness. If the lamps are bright and the buzzer weak then it may be failing and in need of replacing. Yanmar uses two types of buzzers, one with two leads for shared duty among all the sensors and another type with multiple leads going to each sending unit. The first retails for around $60 and the second for around $180. I think it was agreed in a different thread that although the cost of the buzzer may considered high that it constitutes a necessity as our warning lights are usually not within range of our peripheral vision.
winter and battery refresher
Thanks for all comments, we see that there may be many reasons for one single problem. This is really like a puzzle to guess and find out the real reason. I will check all possible causes this week-end. On the other hand, regarding the refresher, I mean a product like "Waeco PerfectBattery BR12" that you leave connected to the batteries all the time. Has anyone ever tried this kind of product? If so, on how many batteries should we connect it? Only one for all the batteries or one to each one? (I have two batteries and they are connected to each other only by negative poles.) Does it make a real difference on battery life?
Thanks for all comments, we see that there may be many reasons for one single problem. This is really like a puzzle to guess and find out the real reason. I will check all possible causes this week-end. On the other hand, regarding the refresher, I mean a product like "Waeco PerfectBattery BR12" that you leave connected to the batteries all the time. Has anyone ever tried this kind of product? If so, on how many batteries should we connect it? Only one for all the batteries or one to each one? (I have two batteries and they are connected to each other only by negative poles.) Does it make a real difference on battery life?
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