On '84 h27, is the AL Mast Step top plate OK to use for gear mounting. Considering a boomkicker and may want to lower the boomvang. Also might add guide blocks for downhaul and such. Thanks all.
AL Mast Step for Gear Mounting?
- Thread starter carina
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Hi Marilyn, cannot speak to your model, but...
the step plate on our H28 was pretty sturdy and had either four or six SS connector pins for attaching turning block shackles. Check to see whether your plate is through bolted (should be). If so no worries. How long have you had Everett moorage? Have you done any Mill Town races? We live in Mukilteo and have had Everett moorage before, but no longer. The new marina looks pretty nice. Skipper's night is every Wednesday during happy hour (4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.) at the Woodfire Grill. Join us if you're interested. Very casual. Terry
the step plate on our H28 was pretty sturdy and had either four or six SS connector pins for attaching turning block shackles. Check to see whether your plate is through bolted (should be). If so no worries. How long have you had Everett moorage? Have you done any Mill Town races? We live in Mukilteo and have had Everett moorage before, but no longer. The new marina looks pretty nice. Skipper's night is every Wednesday during happy hour (4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.) at the Woodfire Grill. Join us if you're interested. Very casual. Terry
I should get a picture to post
I should post a picture of Carina's Mast Step. The mast step is about 7" tall, it is bolted (not through, so I think technically screwed) into a plate (AL maybe?) cored into the deck. 7" above the deck, the mast sits on a receiver sliding into the mast. At this 7" above the deck is a plate in the casting, parallel to the deck that extends beyond the base of the mast by an inch and a half maybe. I thought this plate may be a place to mount turning blocks or whatnot. On thinking about this further, it seemed risky to just drill a hole and snap a shackle to the plate; I'd worry about the stainless wearing on the aluminum. But maybe that isn't an issue...anybody? I could still use the plate by bolting eyestraps to it for shackling to. I suppose this wouldn't be an issue if I just bit the bullet and bolt to the plate in the deck but I just managed to stop all the leaks. There is also the issue of having the turning blocks up too high making running the lines fare difficult. Anyone have pictures of their mast base and beyond showing the neatly run control lines? Hugh & Marilyn Carina PS We moved Carina up the Columbia river a year ago but we long for the more varied waters of the sound. Fresh water freezes and it still slimes the bottom.
I should post a picture of Carina's Mast Step. The mast step is about 7" tall, it is bolted (not through, so I think technically screwed) into a plate (AL maybe?) cored into the deck. 7" above the deck, the mast sits on a receiver sliding into the mast. At this 7" above the deck is a plate in the casting, parallel to the deck that extends beyond the base of the mast by an inch and a half maybe. I thought this plate may be a place to mount turning blocks or whatnot. On thinking about this further, it seemed risky to just drill a hole and snap a shackle to the plate; I'd worry about the stainless wearing on the aluminum. But maybe that isn't an issue...anybody? I could still use the plate by bolting eyestraps to it for shackling to. I suppose this wouldn't be an issue if I just bit the bullet and bolt to the plate in the deck but I just managed to stop all the leaks. There is also the issue of having the turning blocks up too high making running the lines fare difficult. Anyone have pictures of their mast base and beyond showing the neatly run control lines? Hugh & Marilyn Carina PS We moved Carina up the Columbia river a year ago but we long for the more varied waters of the sound. Fresh water freezes and it still slimes the bottom.
Hi Hugh (?), hard to tell from the pic, but are...
there holes already in the plate? Our 1989 H28 had pre-drilled holes to accept custom SS bolts for attaching things. These bolts were threaded on one end and flattened on the other with a hole drilled through the flat part to accept most standard turning block pins. Beneath each plate hole was a slot to slide in the nut to secure the bolt. I got these bolts from Isomat (now Charleston Spar at charlestonspar.com) the stick maker. If it were my boat I would contact Hunter Marine Customer Service to find out the stick maker they used and contact them for technical advice before I started drilling holes. If it is Charleston Spar they may have devices that are designed to be secured to the step plate. The plate may not be through bolted but bolted to a plate embedded in the coach roof as opposed to screws. Also, I've seen other owners secure SS eye straps to the coach roof next to the stick, but I would prefer not to do that. Just another hole for water to weep in. Terry P.S. Are you above or below the dam? Some spirited sailing on the Columbia either side due to the gorge winds.
there holes already in the plate? Our 1989 H28 had pre-drilled holes to accept custom SS bolts for attaching things. These bolts were threaded on one end and flattened on the other with a hole drilled through the flat part to accept most standard turning block pins. Beneath each plate hole was a slot to slide in the nut to secure the bolt. I got these bolts from Isomat (now Charleston Spar at charlestonspar.com) the stick maker. If it were my boat I would contact Hunter Marine Customer Service to find out the stick maker they used and contact them for technical advice before I started drilling holes. If it is Charleston Spar they may have devices that are designed to be secured to the step plate. The plate may not be through bolted but bolted to a plate embedded in the coach roof as opposed to screws. Also, I've seen other owners secure SS eye straps to the coach roof next to the stick, but I would prefer not to do that. Just another hole for water to weep in. Terry P.S. Are you above or below the dam? Some spirited sailing on the Columbia either side due to the gorge winds.
No predrilled holes
in the mast step. Thanks Terry, it's hard to get attention with all that boat babe stuff going on--come on Summer. No slots either for nuts--are you thinking of the upper plate or down at the deck level? Yes I'm reluctant to put any holes in the deck--I think I've just managed to stop all the leaks with latest round of rebedding. It is kind of a snowball deal too. Carina doesn't have a traveller so until she does if ever, I often move the vang to the windward rail in light air. That may be a problem using the boomkicker. Any turning block for cunningham or whatever will also need deck organizers and cleats back on the cabin top--more holes. Oh well. I'll see what I can learn from Hunter. We have Carina at the Boardman OR Marina & State Park--River Statute mile 265--Three locks above Portland and the tides. We still get some pretty good winds except in the deep Summer when the desert heat is everywhere. We really enjoyed the WoodFire Grill a few times. We'll look for the crowd next time we're there at the right time. Cheers, Hugh
in the mast step. Thanks Terry, it's hard to get attention with all that boat babe stuff going on--come on Summer. No slots either for nuts--are you thinking of the upper plate or down at the deck level? Yes I'm reluctant to put any holes in the deck--I think I've just managed to stop all the leaks with latest round of rebedding. It is kind of a snowball deal too. Carina doesn't have a traveller so until she does if ever, I often move the vang to the windward rail in light air. That may be a problem using the boomkicker. Any turning block for cunningham or whatever will also need deck organizers and cleats back on the cabin top--more holes. Oh well. I'll see what I can learn from Hunter. We have Carina at the Boardman OR Marina & State Park--River Statute mile 265--Three locks above Portland and the tides. We still get some pretty good winds except in the deep Summer when the desert heat is everywhere. We really enjoyed the WoodFire Grill a few times. We'll look for the crowd next time we're there at the right time. Cheers, Hugh
Hi Hugh, another possibility is to drill and tap..
holes in the step plate, not through but to the bottom of the plate. The plate on our boat that the mast sits on is about 1/2 inch thick around the edges suitable for drilling and tapping holes for a shackle bolt or eye strap. Ours is aluminum, which should be pretty easy to work with. Terry
holes in the step plate, not through but to the bottom of the plate. The plate on our boat that the mast sits on is about 1/2 inch thick around the edges suitable for drilling and tapping holes for a shackle bolt or eye strap. Ours is aluminum, which should be pretty easy to work with. Terry
Not a problem
My Hunter 33 uses the same or similar mast step. I have several things bolted or attached to it. It's very strong. I made up a base plate that is placed under the step. Lots of drilled holes, lots of smoke while drilling through stainless. Much better to buy one off the shelf from Garhauer marine. Very nice stuff. There is a nice spot on the back of the step where you can mount a bracket for a Garhauer solid vang or a shackle for a normal vang. If you go for a Garhauer I can shoot you a picture and drawing of the special mount bracket I had them make up for me. Works great.
My Hunter 33 uses the same or similar mast step. I have several things bolted or attached to it. It's very strong. I made up a base plate that is placed under the step. Lots of drilled holes, lots of smoke while drilling through stainless. Much better to buy one off the shelf from Garhauer marine. Very nice stuff. There is a nice spot on the back of the step where you can mount a bracket for a Garhauer solid vang or a shackle for a normal vang. If you go for a Garhauer I can shoot you a picture and drawing of the special mount bracket I had them make up for me. Works great.
Thanks Sam
Yes, a little searching and I saw one of those under-step plates with lots of holes for attaching stuff to. Looks like a good way to go, if, I'm going to be adding lots of estuff. I think the addition of the boomkicker should follow the mainsheet traveller and that is going to cost me, plenty. I really don't race much but I do like to tune her up. Hugh
Yes, a little searching and I saw one of those under-step plates with lots of holes for attaching stuff to. Looks like a good way to go, if, I'm going to be adding lots of estuff. I think the addition of the boomkicker should follow the mainsheet traveller and that is going to cost me, plenty. I really don't race much but I do like to tune her up. Hugh
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