We are looking at upgrading an early 1980's Lippincott 30'. It presently has a 30 Amp service, duel batteries, a Yanmar engine. We sail on the middle Chesapeake, from April until November now. Any suggestions on units for a 30A service? 12K or 16K BTU's? Good help site's in the endeavor, I'm a do-it-yourselfer?
Air Conditioning Upgrade- 30' Lippincott
- Thread starter 2sail4ever
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Kind of depends on what other electrical loads you have while on shore power. If you don't have any significant loads other than your battery charger, a single 12k or 16K BTU A/C will be happy on the single 30 amp circuit. Having said that, it's easy enough to verify the power requirements of the A/C you intend to install.
The install is pretty straight-forward for anyone with a little DIY experience, the most difficult part being routing the duct work.
If my experience is any indication, it's a 2 day project, a big portion of which is devoted entirely to planning and beer consumption..
The install is pretty straight-forward for anyone with a little DIY experience, the most difficult part being routing the duct work.
If my experience is any indication, it's a 2 day project, a big portion of which is devoted entirely to planning and beer consumption..
Re: A/C unit
I have a 12,000 BTU AC/heat pump on my H34 and it does a very good job on those hot, humid July/August days on the Bay. A 12K unit should be more than adequate for the 30 footer. Hatch covers make a big difference, BTW. Don't expect to use an electric hot water heater at the same time though.
I have a 12,000 BTU AC/heat pump on my H34 and it does a very good job on those hot, humid July/August days on the Bay. A 12K unit should be more than adequate for the 30 footer. Hatch covers make a big difference, BTW. Don't expect to use an electric hot water heater at the same time though.
A/C Selection
We use a 16,500 BTU FlagShip Marine model on our H33.5 here in St. Louis. I also opted for the electric heating coil built into the unit. I to only have a single 30 amp cord for shorepower. You won't be able to use every electrical appliance at one time but I commonly have the charger, waterheater and A/C on together. I've had it for 6 years without complaint. They have several models to choose form. Here are a couple pics from my installation under the nav station. Hope this helps.
http://flagshipmarine.com/
We use a 16,500 BTU FlagShip Marine model on our H33.5 here in St. Louis. I also opted for the electric heating coil built into the unit. I to only have a single 30 amp cord for shorepower. You won't be able to use every electrical appliance at one time but I commonly have the charger, waterheater and A/C on together. I've had it for 6 years without complaint. They have several models to choose form. Here are a couple pics from my installation under the nav station. Hope this helps.
http://flagshipmarine.com/
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Sitting here with my crewmate Gary who also has 28.5 back in Ohio. He installed an 8K window unit in the head. He cut the bulkhead out over the toilet so the back of the unit is in the locker. He has a catch pan under the back for the condensation. He leaves the locker lid propped up a little to let the hot air out. About $150. total.
I have been on the boat many times in 85+ and it is quite comfortable. I installed a Mermaid Reverse Cycle 12K on my H37C ten years ago and could not recommend a unit more highly. On our recent trip down from NC when it was 30 degrees it kept the cabin toasty when on shorepower. It will run off of my Honda 2000 but we tied up after thirty hour runs offshore for the rest. I did not want to steal storage space for ducts so did not install any. It is mounted in a cabinet against a bulkhead and blows out under the nav station. Being an old classic hull there is not that much interior space so it cools the cabin with no problem. At night I might use a fan to help the v-berth. I also have the Mermaid condensator which pulls the condensation out of the pan and out with the cooling water. So there is nothing going into the bilge.
I have been on the boat many times in 85+ and it is quite comfortable. I installed a Mermaid Reverse Cycle 12K on my H37C ten years ago and could not recommend a unit more highly. On our recent trip down from NC when it was 30 degrees it kept the cabin toasty when on shorepower. It will run off of my Honda 2000 but we tied up after thirty hour runs offshore for the rest. I did not want to steal storage space for ducts so did not install any. It is mounted in a cabinet against a bulkhead and blows out under the nav station. Being an old classic hull there is not that much interior space so it cools the cabin with no problem. At night I might use a fan to help the v-berth. I also have the Mermaid condensator which pulls the condensation out of the pan and out with the cooling water. So there is nothing going into the bilge.
Ed
Can you tell me more about the Mermaid Condensator? That's one area
of my installation that needs attention. My condensation currently is plumbed to the bilge. Have you ever had problems priming with this device installed? Is there any difficulty winterizing the unit?
Can you tell me more about the Mermaid Condensator? That's one area
of my installation that needs attention. My condensation currently is plumbed to the bilge. Have you ever had problems priming with this device installed? Is there any difficulty winterizing the unit?
Mermaid condensator
I think that you can see it on the Mermaid site. A very simple bernoulli device, way too expensive for what it is. It just goes in series in the outflow hose. My outflow hose is about twenty inches long, goes out through the bootstripe. The condensator is about mid-point. A small neoprene hose runs down to a little spout on the corner of the condensation pan. Sucks the condensation right out of there.
I have never had a problem with losing prime or winterizing. My inflow is 'T'd off of the engine cooling thru-hull. I winterize by disconnecting there and attaching a hose and putting it in a bucket of anti-freeze. That insures there is pink stuff in the filter and in the pump. Then I reconnect it to the 'T' valve. Whenever I need cooling or heating I turn the 'T' to A/C, open the seacock, and go outside to make sure the water is coming out. The unit will come on and blow without water but will eventually pop a reset button on top of the unit. No damage done. Easy to start the first time. Pour a couple of cups of water in the hose and blow.
I think that you can see it on the Mermaid site. A very simple bernoulli device, way too expensive for what it is. It just goes in series in the outflow hose. My outflow hose is about twenty inches long, goes out through the bootstripe. The condensator is about mid-point. A small neoprene hose runs down to a little spout on the corner of the condensation pan. Sucks the condensation right out of there.
I have never had a problem with losing prime or winterizing. My inflow is 'T'd off of the engine cooling thru-hull. I winterize by disconnecting there and attaching a hose and putting it in a bucket of anti-freeze. That insures there is pink stuff in the filter and in the pump. Then I reconnect it to the 'T' valve. Whenever I need cooling or heating I turn the 'T' to A/C, open the seacock, and go outside to make sure the water is coming out. The unit will come on and blow without water but will eventually pop a reset button on top of the unit. No damage done. Easy to start the first time. Pour a couple of cups of water in the hose and blow.
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