I do not live on my boat. The boat is a 2004 Hunter 33 and is located in Slidell LA., where there is high humidity and high tempatures. I am concerned about the humity inside the cabin, water lines, and the electrolysis etc. Some have said,"never run the a/c when not aboard" while others have said " run the dehumidifier/away mode to control the humidity in the cabin". Hunter has not given me an opinion as to which is recommended. The air conditioner manufacturer(POlar Bay) says to use the away mode because that is what it is for. At this point, I am leaving the boat in the "away mode", but I plan to use a 110 powered light when the temperature lowers. Anyone else have any suggestions?
Air Conditioner Away Mode
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Barry
Leaving it plugged-in
John- First off, its not up to Hunter to tell you how to use your boat - same way Ford doesn't tell people how to drive. On the other hand, your local dealer and your marina may have guidelines for this issue. Most marinas do not want you to leave a boat plugged-in when you are away during the week. Several reasons - greater fire hazzard and greater risk of electrolysis (one of your concerns). One of the best methods to control internal cabin temerature is with Nicro Solar Day/Night vents. We replaced the pasive mushroom over the head with a 3" (it just slides into the same through-deck hole)and leave the head door open. Also, since you have "factory" airconditioning, you may want to consider a unit called The Condensator to remove a/c condensate before it drains to the bilge. I hope that gives you some direction, Barry Bear Necessity H33 #128
John- First off, its not up to Hunter to tell you how to use your boat - same way Ford doesn't tell people how to drive. On the other hand, your local dealer and your marina may have guidelines for this issue. Most marinas do not want you to leave a boat plugged-in when you are away during the week. Several reasons - greater fire hazzard and greater risk of electrolysis (one of your concerns). One of the best methods to control internal cabin temerature is with Nicro Solar Day/Night vents. We replaced the pasive mushroom over the head with a 3" (it just slides into the same through-deck hole)and leave the head door open. Also, since you have "factory" airconditioning, you may want to consider a unit called The Condensator to remove a/c condensate before it drains to the bilge. I hope that gives you some direction, Barry Bear Necessity H33 #128
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Tony
HU1 Setting
My factory AC ( 2000 340) has been left on the HU1 seting when i am away during week since i bought the boat. vast majority of boats in marina plugged in Boat dry inside no mildew ever, sheets crisp sugar pours from dispenser very pleasant to return to a boat with no smell but teak oil use it thats what its for t.
My factory AC ( 2000 340) has been left on the HU1 seting when i am away during week since i bought the boat. vast majority of boats in marina plugged in Boat dry inside no mildew ever, sheets crisp sugar pours from dispenser very pleasant to return to a boat with no smell but teak oil use it thats what its for t.
Use the DeHumidifier setting
John, I also live in Baton Rouge and keep my Hunter 33 in New Orleans. I use the dehumidify setting on my boat during the summer when I am not aboard and it keeps the boat very fresh and mildew free. Before I did this, by the end of the summer, there was mold and mildew everywhere and everything had that "boat smell" Of course if you leave the airconditioner on, you have to leave the seacock for cooling water open, so if the hose fails in some way you could have a boat that sinks...me, I take the chance and check the hoses and clamps often.
John, I also live in Baton Rouge and keep my Hunter 33 in New Orleans. I use the dehumidify setting on my boat during the summer when I am not aboard and it keeps the boat very fresh and mildew free. Before I did this, by the end of the summer, there was mold and mildew everywhere and everything had that "boat smell" Of course if you leave the airconditioner on, you have to leave the seacock for cooling water open, so if the hose fails in some way you could have a boat that sinks...me, I take the chance and check the hoses and clamps often.
buy a small window unit at Home Depot
and a piece of plywood. Install it in the companion way. Total cost should be less than 200 bucks. This way you can close all of the seacocks when you are away from the boat (a good idea), and still keep the humidity down. Some people use this as the prime AC - but I hate crawling over the unit all the time. One split hose, one rusty hose clamp (or 2 rusty hose clams if double clamped) and your AC pump can be flooding your boat. (This solution works better and costs less than the carry on marine air units.)
and a piece of plywood. Install it in the companion way. Total cost should be less than 200 bucks. This way you can close all of the seacocks when you are away from the boat (a good idea), and still keep the humidity down. Some people use this as the prime AC - but I hate crawling over the unit all the time. One split hose, one rusty hose clamp (or 2 rusty hose clams if double clamped) and your AC pump can be flooding your boat. (This solution works better and costs less than the carry on marine air units.)
D
Droop
Don't leave it plugged it...
Many people do and it is the worst thing possible for your boat! I don't care how good the marina is wired, you are asking for problems with electrolysis. What about the boat next to you, how about the boat next to him? How is their wiring? Floating ground? Stray current? Thunder storms? ???? Way that the chance! There are many other way to keep humidity like adding ventilation.
Many people do and it is the worst thing possible for your boat! I don't care how good the marina is wired, you are asking for problems with electrolysis. What about the boat next to you, how about the boat next to him? How is their wiring? Floating ground? Stray current? Thunder storms? ???? Way that the chance! There are many other way to keep humidity like adding ventilation.
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