Ahh Crap...

[Devian]

OK so here's the deal. Columbia 28'. All interior wood inside looked like crap. Original varnish from 69. Sanded it all down bare with made an amazing difference. Here's where I've apparently messed everything up. I put Teak Oil all over it for protection. Sure thats all fine and good but I intended to varnish it at some point.

So here's the question. Will varnish work with the wood oiled? If not, any suggestions as to how to get the oil out? I worked really hard on this. Looking to hopefully recover from my misguided shenanigans.

 

[dvideohd]

columbia 28 MK II

mine is a '69 too... classic (Clorox bottle) plastic.....

hope you can post some pictures with the work!!!

--jerry

 

[Devian]

Re: columbia 28 MK II

So you're saying I should use Clorox Bleach on the wood?

 

[Allan12210]

Re: columbia 28 MK II

These oils are not the same as hydrocarbon oils used as motor lubricants or grease. They are also not like silicone based mold releases. They are similar to linseed or tung oil, therefore they will cure (crosslink) over time. I don't think they have wax in them either. I think vanish will bond to them and not peel off. But, to be sure, clean a small area somewhere with mineral spirits (thinner) and let it dry. Sand lightly, then apply a coat of varnish also thinned slightly with the solvent. It should soak into the grain carrying the varnish with it and form a bond within the wood fibers to provide a base for additional surface coats. I don't think it will peel off because of the teak oil. Again, try a small area first. Make sure you are using solvent based varnish and not a water based version.

The reference to Chlorox is the white plastic bottle it comes in. That looks just like our white fiberglass boats. Look in Latitude 38 for the Plastic Classic Regatta every year on the Bay for fiberglass boats built from 1969 and earler. That is the start of the modern fiberglass era. It shows the indestuctibility of the new wonder material over wood.

Allan

 

[Ross]

Re: columbia 28 MK II

If you can find some alkyd varnish, not polyurethane, use that for the first coat at least. It is more tolerant of what may be underneath.

 

[alexco38]

I use organic stripper to treat the teak first, sand with 200 followed with 400 wet sandpaper. Keep the sandpaper wet with water. After that use epiphane diluted with 20% Turpentine and rub it with 400 wet sandpaper. Last coat with 1500 sand paper. The wood fibre got sanded into the grain. 4 coats later, wipe with lint free cloth dipped in the varnish and then buffed with compound followed with wax. It turned out like piano. You can read newspaper in the reflection. When I get time, I'll try to post a picture.

I took all the wood out (as much as possible) and work in the basement. Yes it is a winter project. You just can't rush these things.

http://www.epifanes.com/home.htm

Have fun doing it.

 

[Ross]

I use organic stripper to treat the teak first, sand with 200 followed with 400 wet sandpaper. Keep the sandpaper wet with water. After that use epiphane diluted with 20% Turpentine and rub it with 400 wet sandpaper. Last coat with 1500 sand paper. The wood fibre got sanded into the grain. 4 coats later, wipe with lint free cloth dipped in the varnish and then buffed with compound followed with wax. It turned out like piano. You can read newspaper in the reflection. When I get time, I'll try to post a picture.

I took all the wood out (as much as possible) and work in the basement. Yes it is a winter project. You just can't rush these things.

http://www.epifanes.com/home.htm

Have fun doing it.

Is anyone allowed to sail on your boat? That is museum quality finish. I would be ill if I put that much work into a finish and then saw it get damaged.

 

[CharlieCobra]

Devian,

One method of varnishing is to oil in the wood and seal the grain first. Varnish over oil is recommended by many of the old school refinishers. Don't use a polyurethane varnish though. Use an Alkyd or Phenolic varnish over the oil. You'll have no issues.

CC