I need to do some winter maintenance on my plumbing and replacing it all is low on the list...what do you call this connector? I have a few that are splitting and needs replaced. the connections are cracking and leaking. I'll be doing more later with removing the hot water heater (works but original from 86). Boat is an 86 Catalina 30.
Aging plumbing needs attention
- Thread starter lunasea6
- Start date
More likely a Poly butyl connector. There was a source posted here a few months back.
polybutyl pipe - and particularly connectors have significant problems on land based applications - on a boat where it’s not exposed to as much chlorine, and pressure can be turned off maybe not as much of an issue.
If not changing to more modern materials then you might be able to get what you need from here:
polybutyl pipe - and particularly connectors have significant problems on land based applications - on a boat where it’s not exposed to as much chlorine, and pressure can be turned off maybe not as much of an issue.
If not changing to more modern materials then you might be able to get what you need from here:
That is indeed the infamous "Quest" or Polybutylene piping with really horrible fittings. (Y'all can google the lawsuits, etc...)
It's abject garbage. Twalker has given you the solutions for "make it last a few more seasons" which are fine, if that's your goal. All uses of this stuff: houses, boats, RVs, have suffered many failures just like you've experienced. They'll continue as long as you have this stuff in your boat.
Me? I'm a pretty good armchair plumber, so I'd completely repipe with PEX-A. Take maybe a weekend or so including serious beer breaks after you source fittings(and the magic expansion tool). Will _never_ leak or go bad. PEX-A is amazingly reliable. I'd use the plastic Ts, Els, threaded adaptors on a boat over the brass ones. (weight and corrosion...) A C-30 doesn't really have that much plumbing so it's not a massive job.
It's abject garbage. Twalker has given you the solutions for "make it last a few more seasons" which are fine, if that's your goal. All uses of this stuff: houses, boats, RVs, have suffered many failures just like you've experienced. They'll continue as long as you have this stuff in your boat.
Me? I'm a pretty good armchair plumber, so I'd completely repipe with PEX-A. Take maybe a weekend or so including serious beer breaks after you source fittings(and the magic expansion tool). Will _never_ leak or go bad. PEX-A is amazingly reliable. I'd use the plastic Ts, Els, threaded adaptors on a boat over the brass ones. (weight and corrosion...) A C-30 doesn't really have that much plumbing so it's not a massive job.
yea, I remember the poly pipe issues. have way too many projects for this one to be on top of the list. plan on addressing plumbing when I remove the water heater.More likely a Poly butyl connector. There was a source posted here a few months back.
polybutyl pipe - and particularly connectors have significant problems on land based applications - on a boat where it’s not exposed to as much chlorine, and pressure can be turned off maybe not as much of an issue.
If not changing to more modern materials then you might be able to get what you need from here:
one joint in particular leaking a little but two need replaced currently. I want to do some work on the standing and running rigging ($$) and I feel is a higher priority than the pipes.
Sounds about right, unless you are taking the wife out for an overnight cruise and want to use the plumbing to cook food or entertain. Then you might need to upgrade the plumbing priority.
I have an 86 C34. Same year basically same boat. Started with a hot water tank replacement that matriculated into all water lines.. I wanted to make things easier for winterization, All lines were replaced with clear reinforced flexible tubing. To make connections that would allow for draining and introduction of RV antifreeze, I used brass garden dose couplings. They mate up easily, seal well and break apart easily. A bypass manifold with 3 ball valves at hot water tank allows me to introduce RV antifreeze throughout the hot and cold water lines without filling the tank. A coupling in the line from the water tank the pressure pump allows me to break that line, drain the tank into the bilge and on the pump end attach a pick up hose to draw up the antifreeze.
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Plumbing works, just one of the joints drips when pressurized. Figure it's one or a few seasons from failing though. Scrubbing the tanks is on the list too...since the system is drained, figured fix the bad joints and scrub tanks in the spring.
I suppose they deserve some bashing, but our 1991 came with it and no plans to replace. Stuff is strong, works and dependable. Had one fitting failure a few years ago due to being improperly assembled when first installed. Failures usually due to improper installation. I have a few spare fittings, just in case. Good product.
Likely all that you need is to tighten it a quarter turn. This assumes the fitting has all the components and assembled correctly. That was all that one of our fittings needed. The one fitting that failed was due to a missing SS locking ring. Repaired it several years ago and nary a problem since.
So, the female fitting coupler slides onto the tube first, then the SS locking ring followed by the compression nipple with the taper facing the end of the tube. Tube should extend about one quarter inch past the nipple. Hand tighten the fitting, then wrench until the fitting first squeaks followed by one quarter turn. The locking ring secures the tube from blowing out of the fitting. The nipple ensures a water tight seal. Avoid over tightening.
22 minutes ago
Hi Lunasea,
I just recently came across your post showing your leaking and cracked fresh water plumbing fittings. Sorry it took me so long to finally see it.
I have all my fittings from when I replaced mine on my 2000 Hunter 340. You can see some pictures of that on my albums postings. They are in good condition, no leaks or cracks. In fact I still have them with some of the old line still attached.
These are 1/2 inch OD and 3/8 inch ID
I just put them in a bag and on a shelf, thinking, someone may need one someday.
Your welcomed to them if you think they will get you out of your problem until you upgrade the whole system.
Here are a couple of pictures for you to look at.
If you would like them let me know and I send them out to you.
John
Attachments
Hi Lunasea,
I just recently came across your post showing your leaking and cracked fresh water plumbing fittings. Sorry it took me so long to finally see it.
I have all my fittings from when I replaced mine on my 2000 Hunter 340. You can see some pictures of that on my albums postings. They are in good condition, no leaks or cracks. In fact I still have them with some of the old line still attached.
These are 1/2 inch OD and 3/8 inch ID
I just put them in a bag and on a shelf, thinking, someone may need one someday.
Your welcomed to them if you think they will get you out of your problem until you upgrade the whole system.
Here are a couple of pictures for you to look at.
If you would like them let me know and I send them out to you.
John
Attachments
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IMG_0364.JPG
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Replacing my PB plumbing with PEX would be what we call a "stretch goal" at work. I have done a lot in my house - have the crimp tool set. Might be a way to incorporate a bypass to winterize the hot water tank. Now thinking tubing, fittings, multiport manifold(s).....