Advice

capt_sail · Jan 23, 2008

Hi Andi,
Yes, you can sail with a bimini up... check out the pictures of Whisper on Hans & Kristen's site at The Log of Whisper to see a boat set up with a dodger and a bimini.
Bill
V 1390 "Traveler"

groundhogyh · Jan 23, 2008

Hi Andi,
I measured the following on my vega.

-RIGGING WIRES:
-3 Shrouds, 200 mil dia
-topping lift, 135 mil dia
-Halyard wires, 150-156 mils dia
-fore/backstay, 200 mils dia

roy

papasbackhoeinc papasbackhoeinc@... wrote:
My name is Andi and I am rebuilding vega 3179. I'm hoping that you
will answer some of my questions:

1. Can you sail a vega with a bimini up? If not could you modify the
rig so that you could? We live in Texas and my wife is very prone to
heatstroke.
2. What diameter are the shrouds, forestay, and backstays? Should
there diameters be increased?
3. What is the length of the mast and boom?
4. Does anyone use propane for the grill, heating, cooking (Stove with
oven). I'm planning on installing a stove with oven and decided to go
propane crazy.
5. Can you recommend a manufacture for a tabernacle fitting?

Thanks for your advice. My background is in the aircraft industry
and I don't know very much about sailing. I'm positive though that I
can make Valhalla as good as new! Andi

stevebirch2002 · Jan 24, 2008

Hi Andi

The Standing Rigging = 5mm

Running Rigging = Pre-stretched Polyester Braid on Braid

Mainsheet, Main Halyard, Genoa Halyard, Genoa Sheets = 10mm Braid on Braid (Pre-stretched polyester)

Spinnaker Halyard and control lines = 8mm Braid on Braid

Topping Lift = 6 or 8mm Braid on Braid

Cheers

Steve B

stevebirch2002 · Jan 24, 2008

Tabernacle drawings are available as are photos of teh tabernacle

Keep standing rigging the same, check chainplates. I use all rope halyards and throw away the wire tails.

Dont know about fitting an oven etc.

Best to contact me direct on steve@... with specific questions so teh Yahoo Group doesnt become too busy.

Cheers

Steve B

pjacobs55 · Jan 24, 2008

Just a thought on the galley relocation: It's nice to be able to work
the stove and sink while standing with one's head out the hatch. If
you're tall this is a 'must'. Also, it's handy when sailing to be
able to reach the stove and sink from the cockpit for those underway
snacks. If working the galley while heeled over one can sit on the
engine lid and reach everything comfortably.

On the mast raising: (All the usual warnings about safety and
liability ...)I built an "A" frame that makes single handed mast
removal and raising easy. I got it off the Alberg site at

Dropping an Alberg 30 Mast

tinyurl.com

I used inexpensive galvanized pipe from a chain link fence supplier
and used a sleeve to join two ten foot sections for each leg. This
makes it easier to transport. The top end of the legs is flattened
for about 4" and a hole drilled through for a connecting bolt. A
short piece of flat bar, hole at each end, is put between the legs
and also held by the bolt. The mainsheet is attached to the lower
hole in the flat bar. I make sure the mainsheet is at least 15' long
between blocks when fully extended.

I hoist the rig up the aft face of the mast using the jib halyard. I
lash each leg to the main shroud chain plate to hold it firmly in
place with pads underneath to protect the deck. Fore and aft guys
are run from the top to the bow and stern, pulled tightly using a
Trucker's Hitch, holding the top of the "A" against the aft face of
the mast. Voila: a crane!

I tie a loose strap around the mast and attach the mainsheet to it,
hoisting up the strap until it is under the spreaders, with some
tension. Then I loosen off and disconnect all the stays and hoist the
mast up a couple of inches to clear the step. I have a cleat on
the "A" frame leg to fasten the hoisting line to, allowing me to roam
around and clear any snags.

The mast is now supported by the A frame and balanced at it's
midpoint. It's a simple matter to walk the base of the mast aft while
slowly letting out the mainsheet. A 2x4 lashed across the bow pulpit,
a couple of cushions on the cabin top, and a wood "H" brace in the
stern support the lowered mast.

Best to have a couple of able helpers the first time you do it, and
have the boat well out in the clear ... just in case.

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

bhofler · Jan 24, 2008

Hey Peter...If you have photo's you should share with the
VEGAtarians. I looked at the images on the Alberg site but more is
better. See you soon...

Brian

capt_sail · Jan 24, 2008

Hi Andi,
I've built virtually the same shears (A-frame) as Peter, right down to sleeving two 10' sections. I used the heavy-duty electrical conduit available at any of the big box stores. I was forced into it when the local marina started charging as much to step/unstep the mast as they charged to haul the boat! That ticked me off so the next time I hauled out I showed up at the marina with the mast already down - now I'm the one who's smiling! My wife and I can step or unstep a mast in about an hour to an hour and a half, after having done it a few times. It's not hard, but walk through the process in your head beforehand, making sure you understand each step. (The step by step description on the Alberg 30 site Peter mentions is excellent.) Take it slow and discover the fun of doing it yourself the way they did in the 17th and 18th centuries! Much better than paying for a crane...

Bill
V1390 "Traveler"

pjacobs55 · Jan 24, 2008

My advice, these boats are so carefully thought out I would own it for at least a year before making any major modification. I ahve owned mine for 8 years and still am finding design aspects that I suddenly understand.Nicholas Walsh
Nicholas H. Walsh P.A.
111 Commercial Street
Portland Maine 04101
Tel. 207/772-2191
fax 207/774-3940

This email was sent from the law firm of Nicholas H. Walsh P.A. It may contain information that is privileged and confidential. If you suspect that you were not intended to receive this email, please delete it and notify us as soon as possible. Thank you.

vega1860 · Jan 24, 2008

The procedure for lowering and raising the mast with a tabernacle was
published in "Fair Winds" #14 and as a separate article in the VORM at
Membership in the American Vega Association

Unfortunately, there are no good close up photos of the tabernacle
itself. After reading through this thread I think that if I didn't
have the tabernacle, I'd have one made rather than dealing with the
various other methods described. The process is just so easy with the
right set up and there is no bulky hardware or equipment to store.

just my 2c

Fair Winds,

Chuck Rose
SV Lealea, V1860

Albin Vega - The American Vega Association Home

Albin Vega - American Vega Association. Vega 27 sailing, cruising, living aboard, maintenance, repairs, events, information.

americanvega.org

capt_sail · Jan 24, 2008

I've posted a couple pics of my setup to the group site in the "Traveler - V1390" album...

Bill
V 1390 "Traveler"

groundhogyh · Jan 24, 2008

Hi all,
The link Chuck just gave ...
Membership in the American Vega Association

In the picture (Lorna Doone?) shown on the webpage, they have a sail-ready bag on their boat.

Anybody know where you buy these? Or have used them?

Roy

vegatern · Jan 24, 2008

Roy,
Check out sailrite.com They have kits for the sail bags as
well as kits for dodgers and biminis. I have not ordered from them
but have looked through the catalog.
Craig

bbach1949 · Jan 24, 2008

I did the same only with two twenty foot 2 by 4s - good straight grained Douglas fir. I sent someone pictures a year or so ago. I used a block and tackle from just below the spreaders. The mast is relatively light so it doesn't take much purchase on the block and tackle-4 to 1 is plenty. The hardest part is taking the crane down after lowering the mast as it wants to crash the last 30 degrees when you have the least leverage and your guys are stretching. A helper who can support it on the dock with a 8 to 10 foot pole is the way to go. Bill Bach V1071

pelagicasd · Jan 24, 2008

Andi. do you already have a stove and oven in mind? Lot of heat in the cabin if you move it forward. There are stoves with ovens that will fit the present area. Not going to cook a turkey in them but a chicken would fit! WaltTo: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: papasbackhoeinc@...: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 04:34:51 -0800Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Rigging Advice

Steve,Thank you for the info. It will sure help as I untangle this rats nest! Do you think the rigging should be upsized at all? I would like to keep all the wire diameters the same for repair purposes. Is that dumb? I don't see a roller furler in my future right now but definitely a spinaker and genoa. Thanks for your help. Hey while i've got you. I'm thinking about moving the sink and stove area to the bulkhead area. Just like they are now just move everything forward. This would give me the room that I want for an oven. I would then just move the settee's further down towards the transom. I know that this can be done but will it affect the boats balance? I think that it will be fine but I would surely like to have the opinion of someone with experience. I have all the bulkheads and wood out of the boat so now is the time to scheme! How about a tabernacle fitting so I don't have to keep renting this dam cherrypicker! Can you recommend a manufacture in theUS? Or lend me a blueprint! Thank you again for all your help. AndiSteve Birch steve@... wrote:Hi AndiThe Standing Rigging = 5mm Running Rigging = Pre-stretched Polyester Braid on BraidMainsheet, Main Halyard, Genoa Halyard, Genoa Sheets = 10mm Braid on Braid (Pre-stretched polyester)Spinnaker Halyard and control lines = 8mm Braid on BraidTopping Lift = 6 or 8mm Braid on BraidCheersSteve B

pjacobs55 · Jan 24, 2008

Hi Andi:
The mast is 29' 5" (within an inch) and the boom is 11' 4" to the
face of the mast. These measurements are on a Series I Vega with the
gold anodized spars.

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'